New to industrial sewing machines Juki LU-562

[jshep]

So I'm brand new to industrial machines and I got myself a Juki LU-562 with an old clutch motor and table for $450CAD. I'm having some doubts at this point if I got a good deal or not but figured it's mine now so I may as well make it as good as I can! It's built like a tank so hoping that means it's going to last me a long time. I also ordered a servo motor to slow it down and make it quieter.

My question here is does anyone have any good links on adjusting/servicing an industrial machine and also any good videos or tutorials for getting started with using one of these or even just any general advice for a newbie? Any good websites for getting parts for industrial machines? (It's missing the belt and the needle clamp)

Thanks for any advice

Edited October 24, 2016 by jshep

[Uwe]

I made an adjustment video for the Juki 563 class a while ago. Your Juki 562 has a smaller bobbin, but is otherwise nearly identical. It may be a good starting point for your machine.

 

 

My Consew 225 hook timing video is also a good starting point to understand what's going on.

 

Edited October 25, 2016 by Uwe

[Evo160K]

Parts List  http://dixiesewingmachine.tzo.com/MANUALS/JUKIPARTS1/LU-562 & LU-563 Parts List (No.0026-08) BE5620TOPJA.pdf

[dikman]

Instruction manual - https://www.manualslib.com/manual/790496/Juki-Lu-562.html

[Tejas]

Copy of manual for more direct download from member greeg at keysew.

http://keysew.com/Webpages/DemoImages/Juki_LU-563_Instruction_Keyfooter.pdf

 

[Firestar1485]

Hey, I just purchased a 563 too!  I am in process of building a custom table, adding a new servo motor, led lighting, and ton 'o' storage!  My current hurdle is finding a cutout pattern for the table top.  I can wing it, but I would hate to demo the table top by accident!  For similar builds I have created a mock up using cardboard, then transferred that to a scrape piece of wood, and then finally on to the final wood for cutout ... measuring and double checking 25 times or more!   lots of prep, trial and error ... so an actual pattern would be an incredible time saver!

[Tejas]

Here is a link to a thread about DIY tables that might have tips, especially posts from thesergeant.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/48789-has-anyone-built-their-own-industrial-sewing-tables-can-you-critique-my-idea/

[SARK9]

Table dims for many industrials:

 

 

[shoepatcher]

Sends us some pictures once you have the original parts back in.  Make sure they are close ups.  This will tell us a lot and then we can make specific suggestions to you and how to fix it.

glenn

[Firestar1485]

Thanks for cutout dimensions, table is coming along nicely

[jshep]

Wow!!! Thanks you guys are awesome  this is so helpful!!!

Firestar1485 that table looks amazing. I want one too now

Uwe that is a great video, thank you for posting it, I'll be using that for sure!

One question about belts, I've only used home machines where the belts are a standard size. Is this the same with industrial where I can just get a standard size or will I need to make some measurements (once I have my servo installed) and then find the right sized belt? 

[shoepatcher]

jshep,

You want to use 3L  v-belts.  The length of the belt you will have to determine from machine to motor.  3l belts fit the pulleys on sewing machines very well.  You can get them from Sewing Machine Dealers or from Automotive stores. once you know the size, i.e. 38" or 39" etc.

glenn

[Firestar1485]

I just installed mine, I used a 42" v belt.

 

[Firestar1485]

Anyone know if you can swap the sewing hook assembly of the 562 (small capacity) with that of the 563 (large capacity bobbin)??

[Uwe]

Technically yes, but it's not easy and involves a couple of other parts, not just the hook.

[TinkerTailor]

8 minutes ago, Uwe said:

Technically yes, but it's not easy and involves a couple of other parts, not just the hook.

In the other thread, Cowboy bob says no, there is machining involved.

[Constabulary]

You most likely need a compete new hook saddle, hook, bobbin case opener and the casting needs some machining AFAIK. A new used large hook machine would be cheaper I think.

EDIT:

was just writing when TT answered

Edited November 2, 2016 by Constabulary

[TinkerTailor]

22 minutes ago, CowboyBob said:

NO,they do not just interchange!You need to either buy the correct hook saddle(the part that holds the hook in) or it needs to be taken out & machined deeper.The large hook is also taller & won't fit in,you also need to change the take up lever,as it's also longer on the 563.

 

One of the problems with posting the same question in three places is it makes it difficult for those who answer the questions to follow whats going on. Having the answer and the question together in one place also helps the next guy searching for the same question

...Sometimes the volunteer experts on here take a few days or a week to get to it. Keep in mind while waiting for a response that around here you get WAY more than you pay for......

[cdthayer]

3 hours ago, TinkerTailor said:

One of the problems with posting the same question in three places is it makes it difficult

I agree.

CD in Oklahoma

[jshep]

One thing I noticed with my machine is it's missing the needle thread guide pin. It looks to be broken right off or like someone cut it off. Will this really mess up my tension? Can I make due without it?

[Constabulary]

It most likely will not mess up the tension but you better find a new one it´s there for a reason. Check with TECHSEW or other dealers in your era they should be able to help. They should not cost more than 10 bucks. If you can´t get out the remains fo the old thread guide drill a new hole and put in a new thread guide. Some don´t require to tap a thread as they have a tapered end but you probably want to glue them in with Loctite or s/t similar.  F.i.:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Crafts/14339/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=thread+guide+pin

[jshep]

I got one more question, did a search and couldn't really find much on this. I have a sailrite bias binder attachment for my old machine. It unfortunately doesn't fit on the Juki. So now I'm looking at finding a replacement to use on the new machine. I found the two options below. Looks like the top one comes with a different style of foot? Is there a reason why I should get this one? Will it make working with bias tape much easier than just getting a right angle attachment to use with my regular foot? 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Juki-LU-562-LU-563-Needle-Plate-Feed-Dog-Walking-Foot-Binder-Choose-Tape-Size-/321199587119?hash=item4ac8fcbf2f

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KP-160-JUKI-LU-562-LU-563-RAW-TAPE-BINDER-/161883493330?var=&hash=item25b10213d2:m:m4i0-ms-bd8SP7bLikBikoQ

 

 

[Constabulary]

5 hours ago, jshep said:

I found the two options below. Looks like the top one comes with a different style of foot?

different - compared with what?  Please post some pictures,

[Uwe]

The first Ebay item referenced above is a complete kit with tape folder, throat plate/feed dog, presser feet (Ebay listings tend to vanish over time - it's best to upload a screen shot here to keep the topic relevant for years to come)

 

The additional special binding throat plate has a built-in step to compensate for different thickness of material vs. material+tape and allows positioning the tape folder a little lower to center the folded tape better with the material being sewn. The special "stubby" inner binding presser foot and left-toed outer foot allow for the tape folder to be positioned very close to the presser feet without touching and the feet match the throat plate to improve holding and feeding the material.

You'll be able to do simple binding operations with just the tape folder and regular/standard throat plate and presser feet. It all depends on the materials and thicknesses you're trying to work with.

If the simple folder-only solution is not satisfactory, try the complete matching set of binding parts.

 

Edited November 20, 2016 by Uwe

[jshep]

Sorry about that, I'll make sure to post images rather then links from now on. 

 

Ok so this makes more sense to me I think. Since I'll be doing backpacks and there are definitely different widths at the seams I should probably get the one with the binding throat plate whereas if I was just doing projects where the width was consistent throughout I'd be able to get away with just the tape folder?