My Stuff is TOO STIFF

[robbied]

Dye, hide rejuvinator (a couple of massages in) then resolene. The rejuvinator seems to soften it nicely without the greasiness of neats foot oil. The resolene goes well over the top of that.

[Dwight]

50 minutes ago, robbied said:

Dye, hide rejuvinator (a couple of massages in) then resolene. The rejuvinator seems to soften it nicely without the greasiness of neats foot oil. The resolene goes well over the top of that.

And what is this rejuvenator called???

May God bless,

Dwight

[Red Bear Haraldsson]

Doctor Jackson's Hide rejuvenator

https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/dr-jackson-s-hide-rejuvenator

 

[Dwight]

1 hour ago, Red Bear Haraldsson said:

Doctor Jackson's Hide rejuvenator

https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/dr-jackson-s-hide-rejuvenator

 

Thanks, Red Bear, . . . I thought I knew every product on the shelves at my local Tandy, . . . I most surely missed this one.

I won't next time, . . . 

May God bless,

Dwight

[MADMAX22]

Pure neatsfoot oil isnt greasy unless you over do it. 

Wiping on a thin layer then letting it sit over night is the key. 

Dwight I think part of it is matching the leather thickness to what you will be making, possibly choosing a different type of leather also depending on the style you want to do. Usually though changing from say 8oz that you use for most of your stuff (just guessing) to 5oz will make a big difference. Plus removing the wet forming part of the process can also get rid of alot of the hardness. 

Depending on the project I usually give it a light coat of neatsfoot and let it sit overnight, then decide what type of finish I want to use. If leaving it natural I rub on a wax/oil mix (home made sno-seal) I have and let that sit in a warm environment for a day or two then buff it off and its good to go. If I use a finish it is usually tan kote or saddle-lac. If saddle lac I let it dry then buff and its good to go, if tan-kote I let it dry and then use my sno-seal equivelant and let it set up for a day then buff. 

So anyway I go its basically 3 steps but takes a little while, the process can be speeded up if you have one of those hot boxes to let it sit in for a while. 

[bgentle]

On 10/25/2016 at 8:23 AM, TomG said:

I use Leather Balm with Atom Wax and after well dried, top it with a very light coat of 50/50 Resolene or acrylic floor wax.  Right after the Leather Balm, I flex the leather a bit and it limbers right up.  Of course, 80% of my stuff is straps of some sort, so that part is easy <g>.

Works well for me.

Someone else I know uses the floor wax first and the Leather Balm on top.  Works for them as well.

 

50 % resolene and 50 % what?

 

[Mattsbagger]

I'm assuming water. for the 50/50. That seems to be the cut % from what I've read.

[Dwight]

13 minutes ago, Mattsbagger said:

I'm assuming water. for the 50/50. That seems to be the cut % from what I've read.

That's it...............

May God bless,

Dwight

[TomG]

54 minutes ago, bgentle said:

50 % resolene and 50 % what?

 

Water. It helps prevent cracking when the leather is flexed

Edited October 26, 2016 by TomG

[keplerts]

Boriqua,

I have some  turquoise waterstain that I have tried but it looks like crap.  Let me know (or show a picture) of have a piece of leather turns out when you use the turquoise waterstain.  All of the other waterstains I have used were great. I really like them.

Tom