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I understand the frustration.  You already have a significant amount of time and money into the machine so I recommend keeping it.  I have noticed that a few simple adjustment and or part replacement and they work like new (or better than new in your case). If you can post some pictures and videos of your issues the forum has a lot of experts that can also help.  Some "expert repair" people may not be that expert on every machine brand.  Pfaff and Adler may look like Singer Machines but they have their own special needs that set them apart from their Singer cousins.  So you really need a Adler expert.  They look intimidating to work on yourself but it is not impossible (well that 72w19 almost broke me).  What we do here is take the slow and steady approach, take pictures, remove a part, then put the part back then test, then keep working along each section of the machine until you find the issue.  That all being said, maybe you just have the wrong needle, or your not threading it right? 

 

 

One day I hope to learn how to sew.....

Singer 111W155 - Singer 29-4 - Singer 78-1 - Singer 7-31 - Singer 109w100 - Singer 46W-SV-16 - Adler 20-19 - Cowboy CB-4500

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laurend,

1.   What is the exact model of your Adler? 

2.  Get us a few pictures of the machine head and it's set up.   Then we can better advise you where to go.  A short video of it sewing would help as well.

glenn

Posted
1 hour ago, Yetibelle said:

I understand the frustration.  You already have a significant amount of time and money into the machine so I recommend keeping it.  I have noticed that a few simple adjustment and or part replacement and they work like new (or better than new in your case). If you can post some pictures and videos of your issues the forum has a lot of experts that can also help.  Some "expert repair" people may not be that expert on every machine brand.  Pfaff and Adler may look like Singer Machines but they have their own special needs that set them apart from their Singer cousins.  So you really need a Adler expert.  They look intimidating to work on yourself but it is not impossible (well that 72w19 almost broke me).  What we do here is take the slow and steady approach, take pictures, remove a part, then put the part back then test, then keep working along each section of the machine until you find the issue.  That all being said, maybe you just have the wrong needle, or your not threading it right? 

 

 

I watched the video above and was surprised to see the thread at section 1.3mins in being looped behind the thread return tension spring post as I have never done that and have not had any problems that I know of. I checked online and saw this video that is threaded the same as I always have. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHq0N0Umz08

I do not know if the shown example is correct. Can anyone here verify which way it should be or if it matters. The winding through of the thread on the stand at the start going through the 2 holes makes me wonder if the operator really knows what he is doing.

The uneven tension on the bobbin mentioned makes me think to look into whether a new bobbin case should be tried to compare with. I always put a drop of oil onto the bobbin holding post and into the back of the bobbin case between most bobbin changes. This makes it quieter and smoother running and helps to keep the tension more reliable. Make sure the bobbins do not have any restrictions when turned in the bobbin case without any thread in. Sometimes the case can have damage from a broken needle and so on. I do prefer steel bobbins as against aluminium as I think they are less likely to pick up rubbish and do any scouring on the bobbin tube or the post.

Changing the foot lift to a knee lift is quite easy and would be no problem to do.

I think it is possible that you may need a good mechanic to go over it but mostly to get you to understand exactly how and why different adjustments work such as the feet tensions and how this relates to the varying thicknesses and the tightness in materials being sewn. Usually I run them as loose as possible but tight enough not to let the job lift off the table at all when starting off.

There are a lot of different things involved in getting a machine to run right and unless your doing the same work all of the time a good knowledge of how to make the machine work the way you want will be true with a new machine in short time as well.

Hope that helps some. Regards Brain

 

 

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Posted

Thanks for all of the great feedback. I will be very distracted over the next two weeks prepping for my move, but will try to take some photos, videos and do some self-checks mentioned above. I'll post back when I'm able to do all of that!

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Posted (edited)

In the meantime, here are some photos that I have on hand of the machine and the model number. I'm also ordering a new bobbin case and some new bobbins. Will try some aluminum and some steel. I feel partial to the aluminum ones only because I had another machine at one time sew well only with aluminum bobbins. Not really sure why! It's like I had a cat growing up that only liked the 'salmon' flavored cat food. But I suppose that was a different machine entirely and has nothing to do with this one. I'm open to all possibilities with this thing.

**EDIT** I'm actually having trouble finding bobbins in anything but aluminum. Anyone have a reliable source for this? 

IMG_0996.jpg

IMG_0999.jpg

Edited by laurend
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Posted

Good Day

Its clear to me with the photos this is a keeper; with that it doesn't look to be broke in yet.

So in this part of the forum everyone wants to help in their replies, so no pushing to make any moves.

Good luck with your location moves and when ever others can help in some of the steps either way jus give a shout.

The machine move would be best just my opinion, with removing that machine head from the table no-matter and covering securely with several move blankets.

keep us posted, and moving? advil is my friend

Floyd

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Posted

laurend,

This Adler 69-FA-373 means this machine was originally fitted with a thread trimmer.  The knife may have been removed but other parts might remain.  Send us some better pics of the shuttle area.

glenn

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Posted (edited)

Machine is definitely a keeper.

Well - I´m not 100% sure but the tension unit looks like one from a Pfaff 138. That does not mean your tension unit does not work with the machine but I think its not the original tension unit. Adler tension units look different they look like this:

111870_gr.jpg

and yours has 2 tensions (thats for double needle machines, sewing tucks and so on) and seems you run the thread through both of them - thats basically wrong.

Try to thread your machine a different way - go from the thread guide on top of your machine directly to your tension unit and thread it as shown in this picture and try again sewing.

138-21.jpg

 

 

Edited by Constabulary

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted

Also,

In the video on the 69 showing how to wind bobbin, thread machine and sew, the machine is NOT thread correctly in the take up spring area. It is threaded behind the location pin on the the take spring assembly and that is WRONG.  I have owned and sewn on these machines and you do no thread behind that pin!

glenn

Posted

For what it's worth, I've had two of these machines and I can say that when they are set up correctly they are absolutely wonderful machines to sew on. I think they require a little more tweaking than say a 335, but once dialed in they are real work horses. After seeing those pics I'm kinda sorry I gave mine up.

Regards,
Joe Esposito

www.hockeymenders.com 

instragram: @hockeymenders.com

 

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