Looking for a fast and effective way to burnish natural veg-tan

[bylinesupplyco]

Currently on my belts, I add natural atom wax liquid to the edges (natural veg-tan straps), and proceed to burnish with my pro edge cocobolo burnisher. This is in my drill press.

 

I have noticed darker spots on the edges, and the burnish is not a consistent caramel color throughout.

 

I am looking for a fast way to burnish, as I do production runs so a hand held wooden edge slicker is out of the question. Is there another liquid I could use? Machine? Technique?

 

I am wanting to do them as fast as possible, however with good looking fast results. Thanks!

[Mattsbagger]

Have you tried saddle soap or gum trag?

[Wulfing]

I'm a beginner but i use the attached dremel tool attachments. I dye the edges rather than use edge paint then burnish. I use my home made wax and oil based product to do both burnish the edges and nourish the leather.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-Sizes-Leather-Burnisher-Wood-Edge-Leather-Craft-Slicker-Tools-Kit-for-Dremel-/302079111397?hash=item46555170e5:g:0HsAAOSwYIxX36kk

[bylinesupplyco]

I have tried gum trag a long time ago. I liked the results, but the application is where it got me. Basically I would apply it with a wool dauber, and if it dripped on the natural veg tan, it would just discolor it. I understand that it is also a learned skill of application to get just the right amount so Im not faulting the dauber

[Mattsbagger]

1 hour ago, bylinesupplyco said:

I have tried gum trag a long time ago. I liked the results, but the application is where it got me. Basically I would apply it with a wool dauber, and if it dripped on the natural veg tan, it would just discolor it. I understand that it is also a learned skill of application to get just the right amount so Im not faulting the dauber

Just use a finger tip. That's what I do with this stuff.

[bikermutt07]

You can try wyoslik from Sheridan. Sheridan is out of business now but Barry King acquired the rights to wyoslik and I understand he is shipping now. You have to call, it wasn't listed on his site as recently as two weeks ago. 

I haven't gotten to try it yet.

Fiebings antique paste in Natural, I have had good luck with for edges.

Finally is tokonole, it is new to me but a quick test gave slicker feeling results than the antique paste. Sheen was comparable. Available from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply or goodsjapan.

Hope this helps.

[chiefjason]

I like liquid saddle soap.  I apply it with a dauber.  If I'm doing a black edge I just dye it with pro oil dye then straight to the burnisher.  The oil dye works as well as anything else I have used.  If I burnish with the oil dye I don't have to use the saddle soap.  But for pre dyed stuff, or natural color edges it's hard to beat saddle soap.  

[Brianm77]

On 3/8/2017 at 11:29 AM, bylinesupplyco said:

I have tried gum trag a long time ago. I liked the results, but the application is where it got me. Basically I would apply it with a wool dauber, and if it dripped on the natural veg tan, it would just discolor it. I understand that it is also a learned skill of application to get just the right amount so Im not faulting the dauber

Nearly anything applied to leather will darken it slightly.  Either be very careful or you can give all of it a bath in saddle soap... or antique paste...   I struggle with that a little myself. 

[MikeG]

You didn't specify what style burnisher you are using in your drill press.  If you are not using a "yo-yo" style or something similar, that may be a reason you are getting uneven results.  I can achieve an edge burnish I am happy with using the cheap nylon Tandy disk burnisher in my drill press.  I use the dowel style burnishers for curves and tight spots, but not for anything like a belt.   I also have a disk style burnisher on a sewing machine motor screwed to the edge of my bench.  It's really handy for small items and touch up when I'm too lazy to go to the drill press.

That said, there are many, many threads on burnishing here on the forums.  One variable that is sometimes overlooked is the leather itself.  Some burnishes almost effortlessly, others not so much.  BTW, I also like Atom Wax.

Edited March 11, 2017 by MikeG
spelling

[JerseyFirefighter]

On 3/8/2017 at 0:29 PM, bylinesupplyco said:

I have tried gum trag a long time ago. I liked the results, but the application is where it got me. Basically I would apply it with a wool dauber, and if it dripped on the natural veg tan, it would just discolor it. I understand that it is also a learned skill of application to get just the right amount so Im not faulting the dauber

I wonder how a heritage dye box would do with the gum trag. $50 cant go wrong.

 

On 3/10/2017 at 1:35 AM, chiefjason said:

I like liquid saddle soap.  I apply it with a dauber.  If I'm doing a black edge I just dye it with pro oil dye then straight to the burnisher.  The oil dye works as well as anything else I have used.  If I burnish with the oil dye I don't have to use the saddle soap.  But for pre dyed stuff, or natural color edges it's hard to beat saddle soap.  

Thay sounds ridiculously messy no?

Edited March 11, 2017 by JerseyFirefighter

[chiefjason]

5 hours ago, JerseyFirefighter said:

Thay sounds ridiculously messy no?

Not at all, get a scrap piece and give it a shot.  My pro edge burnisher is mounted on my drill press as well.  The leather soaks both of them up, so nothing to really sling around.  You could possibly wipe any extra off before burnishing.  Don't dunk the dauber in the saddle soap, just kind of touch it to the surface until you get the hang of it.  The thinner saddle soap is easier to work with.  Tractor Supply carries some that works very well.  

Also try edging with the edges damp.  It kind of pre burnishes the edges as it cuts.  I rarely sand the edges anymore since I started burnishing wet.  

A lot of belt guys will hook the belt on a nail and pull it through denim or similar cotton to burnish the edges.  Apparently it's pretty fast.  I do know burnishing a belt on the drill press is time consuming.  I've done a few that way.  

[MADMAX22]

I actually started using this stuff Thread lube  from campbell randall. It works pretty good. 

I burnish with that stuff then go back over with my regular edge wax and burnish real quick and am done. 

[Mark842]

I run a motor burnisher, variable between about 2000 to 3500 RPM. On one side I installed a holder that would fit a standard 2" diameter sanding disc, the other side a standard hardwood burnisher..pick your favorite brand. On the side with the sanding wheel mount, instead of using it as a sanding I have a 4" long section of canvas fire hose. 2" of the fire hose is soaked with saddle soap, the other 2" is packed with bees wax. I sand my edges smooth on a separate belt sander, edge bevel, run the edge over the canvas side at about 2500rpm, then go to the wood at full speed 3500rpm and then the wax side of the canvas at 2500rpm. puts a nice smooth shiny slicked edge on a belt in about 2 minutes from start to finish.

[JerseyFirefighter]

19 hours ago, chiefjason said:

Not at all, get a scrap piece and give it a shot.  My pro edge burnisher is mounted on my drill press as well.  The leather soaks both of them up, so nothing to really sling around.  You could possibly wipe any extra off before burnishing.  Don't dunk the dauber in the saddle soap, just kind of touch it to the surface until you get the hang of it.  The thinner saddle soap is easier to work with.  Tractor Supply carries some that works very well.  

Also try edging with the edges damp.  It kind of pre burnishes the edges as it cuts.  I rarely sand the edges anymore since I started burnishing wet.  

A lot of belt guys will hook the belt on a nail and pull it through denim or similar cotton to burnish the edges.  Apparently it's pretty fast.  I do know burnishing a belt on the drill press is time consuming.  I've done a few that way.  

I mean messy as in dyeing the edge with pro oil dye and then straight to the burnisher. Die all over your hands, the project, etc. I do everything else similar except I used a sponge to wet it, and a mix of glycerin soap and beeswax or paraffin to give it a waxy finish. 

[bikermutt07]

6 hours ago, JerseyFirefighter said:

I mean messy as in dyeing the edge with pro oil dye and then straight to the burnisher. Die all over your hands, the project, etc. I do everything else similar except I used a sponge to wet it, and a mix of glycerin soap and beeswax or paraffin to give it a waxy finish. 

On the edges the dye soaks in pretty quick. I use a small paint brush for my edges. 

[JerseyFirefighter]

I use the heritage dye box... I agree it soaks in quick, but doesnt stop from rubbing on anything and everything during the first 15 mins... then on the hands only after that for the next 4-6 hrs. 

[bikermutt07]

6 minutes ago, JerseyFirefighter said:

I use the heritage dye box... I agree it soaks in quick, but doesnt stop from rubbing on anything and everything during the first 15 mins... then on the hands only after that for the next 4-6 hrs. 

Lol, I think I would retire that thing.

[chiefjason]

16 hours ago, JerseyFirefighter said:

I mean messy as in dyeing the edge with pro oil dye and then straight to the burnisher. Die all over your hands, the project, etc. I do everything else similar except I used a sponge to wet it, and a mix of glycerin soap and beeswax or paraffin to give it a waxy finish. 

I wear gloves while I'm dyeing and burnishing.  After about 30 minutes it's good to go.  I regularly work a holster up in the evening and stitch it that night.  And that is edged and fully dyed just a hour or two before sitting down to stitch it.  The main problem is when I want to burnish a natural edge.  I have to clean the burnisher really well.  

 

I go back over my edges with a mix of paraffin and bees wax to fill in the small spots that don't get burnished too.  

 

 

[Mattsbagger]

5 hours ago, chiefjason said:

I wear gloves while I'm dyeing and burnishing.  After about 30 minutes it's good to go.  I regularly work a holster up in the evening and stitch it that night.  And that is edged and fully dyed just a hour or two before sitting down to stitch it.  The main problem is when I want to burnish a natural edge.  I have to clean the burnisher really well.  

 

I go back over my edges with a mix of paraffin and bees wax to fill in the small spots that don't get burnished too.  

 

 

I was gonna post a question about cleaning the burnisher. What do you use. I just got a 'bolo burnisher. I had a problem with dye transfer with my hand held Tandy one one so I used a 2nd hand held for natural. But that be a bit pricey with a motor burnisher. Lol

[chiefjason]

4 hours ago, Mattsbagger said:

I was gonna post a question about cleaning the burnisher. What do you use. I just got a 'bolo burnisher. I had a problem with dye transfer with my hand held Tandy one one so I used a 2nd hand held for natural. But that be a bit pricey with a motor burnisher. Lol

 

I put some denatured alcohol on a rag, turn the burnisher on, then run it through the burnisher.  Seems to work fine when I need to burnish a natural edge.  And that is pretty rare so it gets a lot of use with dye ahead of the cleaning.  Basically, about the only edging I do is with black dye so I don't bother cleaning it unless I have too.  And I usually check it by burnishing a scrap piece first.  

[bikermutt07]

4 hours ago, Mattsbagger said:

I was gonna post a question about cleaning the burnisher. What do you use. I just got a 'bolo burnisher. I had a problem with dye transfer with my hand held Tandy one one so I used a 2nd hand held for natural. But that be a bit pricey with a motor burnisher. Lol

I just ran some saddle soap on a rag thru it and then waxed it.

1 minute ago, chiefjason said:

 

I put some denatured alcohol on a rag, turn the burnisher on, then run it through the burnisher.  Seems to work fine when I need to burnish a natural edge.  And that is pretty rare so it gets a lot of use with dye ahead of the cleaning.  Basically, about the only edging I do is with black dye so I don't bother cleaning it unless I have too.  And I usually check it by burnishing a scrap piece first.  

That's better than my idea.

[Mrvista]

Try one of these:

You just mount it on a standard bench grinder with a 1/2" spindle, fantastically quick burninshing for different thicknesses of leather, I use this in conjunction with good old beeswax,  I coat my edges with any form of edge coat, leave to dry, then apply beeswax, and slick it on the slicker.

Make sure you have a bench grinder that runs a minimum of 6000rpm.

Hope this helps

Andy

[JLSleather]

Folks git way too concerned over this stuff.  There are a number of ways to burnish edges.  One guy says saddle soap paste - other guys says glycerine bar - next fella says edge kote or similar..... 

I burnish with water, and occasionally add some wax to the "stubborn' edges. I prefer a rotating tool in a drill press, but each his own.

I will say, though, that in the time it would take to watch that entire video, a guy could make a burnisher from a wooden dowel (3/4" to 1" will do it), a file, and some sand paper.

 

[slipangle]

46 minutes ago, Mrvista said:

Make sure you have a bench grinder that runs a minimum of 6000rpm.

Hope this helps

Andy

I've got to ask, Andy,  is there such an animal as a bench grinder than runs at that RPM?  Never seen one.

Also, why is that much speed, or SFPM , necessary?

Thanks

 

 

[JLSleather]

I run a burnisher with an O.D. of about an inch, at about 500 rpm.  Some of the machinist boys around here will be able to tell you that it's not the RPM, it's teh SURFACE FEET PER MINUTE that matters.  Double the diameter of the burnisher, running at the SAME rpm, will result in a burnisher operating at double teh EFFECTIVE speed.

Shorter version:  A 2" burnisher and a 1" burnisher running the same speed are NOT working the same way.