Advice wanted for leather on outer garments.

[mggrraanntt]

Hi everyone,

I'm wanting to make small veg tanned leather patches that can be stitched on things like denim jackets etc (just like the band sew on/stitch on patches you can get).

My concern is if it's on any outer garments like a denim jacket, it may get rained on and I don't want any dyes to run or ruin the leather (or jacket for that matter!). I have been making a few wallets and, after dying the leather, i apply eco flo super shene and fiebings aussie conditioner. Would this be suitable?

Cheers in advance,

Michael

[bikermutt07]

Stray away from the water based stuff. Aussie may be enough, if not thin coats of resolene.

No expert here, just trying to help.

[battlemunky]

I have heard that if you want to water proof/resist, stay away from water based products. After you dye it, I'd buff the living hell out of it to ensure excess dye is off and then put some non-water based finish on it. Sno-seal works pretty well at water repellency, you can also make your own with bee's wax and neatsfoot oil. I don't think there is a single one time treatment though, everything will need retreating after time. That time may be years, but it'll need it at some point.

Please let us know what you opt for. I'd like to know myself.

[fredk]

Water based final finishes should be OK.

They are usually acrylic. The water is just the carrier for the acrylic resins. Once the acrylic has dried it cannot be disolved in water again. To remove it the usual fluid is an alcohol, eg IPA, methylated spirits, vodka

I use beeswax/neetsfoot oil mix to feed leather but it will wash out*. Resolene, which I also use: on sportsmans bags, wont wash out. When using the Resolene I thin it 1:1 or 1[R]:2[W] with water and apply multiple coats using a children's art brush or sponges - just whichever I have handy or can find. I dip coat sometimes on things that go into my tray, bags ain't so easy so they get it by brush/sponge

* Just after I started leather working several years ago I made a bonnet [hood] hold down strap for my vintage racing car. I used beeswax/neetsfoot mix on it. My vintage car doesn't get used much but I found I had to give it more beeswax/neetsfoot after just a few months. A similar strap I made for the 'boot' [trunk] at a later time got Resolened, after 7 years it now needs replaced as its showing its age

[Matt S]

Michael, why do you want to use veg tan specifically? It is far from ideal for garments so unless you're planning on tooling or embossing my advice would be to look at something more appropriate.

[mggrraanntt]

 

Michael, why do you want to use veg tan specifically? It is far from ideal for garments so unless you're planning on tooling or embossing my advice would be to look at something more appropriate.

Hi Matt,

Yea, I would be tooling the leather.

Thanks.

[mggrraanntt]

 

Water based final finishes should be OK.

They are usually acrylic. The water is just the carrier for the acrylic resins. Once the acrylic has dried it cannot be disolved in water again. To remove it the usual fluid is an alcohol, eg IPA, methylated spirits, vodka

I use beeswax/neetsfoot oil mix to feed leather but it will wash out*. Resolene, which I also use: on sportsmans bags, wont wash out. When using the Resolene I thin it 1:1 or 1[R]:2[W] with water and apply multiple coats using a children's art brush or sponges - just whichever I have handy or can find. I dip coat sometimes on things that go into my tray, bags ain't so easy so they get it by brush/sponge

* Just after I started leather working several years ago I made a bonnet [hood] hold down strap for my vintage racing car. I used beeswax/neetsfoot mix on it. My vintage car doesn't get used much but I found I had to give it more beeswax/neetsfoot after just a few months. A similar strap I made for the 'boot' [trunk] at a later time got Resolened, after 7 years it now needs replaced as its showing its age

I think I have some Resolene so might give that a go and leave it out in the rain to give it abit of a test.

Cheers.

[kiwican]

You make leather water resistant but never totally water proof. Assuming the jackets will get washed once and a while test a few pieces out in the washing machine!

[mggrraanntt]

 

You make leather water resistant but never totally water proof. Assuming the jackets will get washed once and a while test a few pieces out in the washing machine!

Good idea, thank you.

[Mark842]

Try Liquitex Varnishes. Flexible and extremely water resistant with zero dye bleed. Been using it for 25+ years on leather. Never threw any veg in the washer but I've been washing a denim jacket  that I painted a Jethro Tull Aqualung album cover on in probably 72 with acrylic paints and sealed with liquitex. Probably been laundered 20-30 times over the years and the only part of the jacket that isn't worn out and faded is the painting.

[mggrraanntt]

 

Try Liquitex Varnishes. Flexible and extremely water resistant with zero dye bleed. Been using it for 25+ years on leather. Never threw any veg in the washer but I've been washing a denim jacket  that I painted a Jethro Tull Aqualung album cover on in probably 72 with acrylic paints and sealed with liquitex. Probably been laundered 20-30 times over the years and the only part of the jacket that isn't worn out and faded is the painting.

Ha great! I'll look into it, thanks.

[Bob Blea]

My wife has a veg tan wallet with Liquitex acrylic paints on it's tooling that has accidentally been through the washing machine twice now.  No damage to the painted tooling at all.