Singer 111w101 questions

[melancholycoyote]

Is singer 111w101 a walking foot machine? Been trying to do some research, also searched this site to make sure hopefully I'm not asking an already asked question! Would it be solid enough to work with chap leather, maybe two layers of 6-7 oz? Also, what is the max capabilities of a machine like this? I also don't know much about motors yet, so any thoughts on that would be greatly appreciated as well.

Is this a pretty decent find for my intentions? Or could this possibly be a bit over my head, as I'm really new to the sewing machine scene.  I'd love some thoughts! I've also been checking out Juki Lu 563s and Consew 206rb, but for whatever reason I keep coming back to any 111ws. Thanks in advance for any advice!

[Uwe]

The Singer 111W101 is a very early version of that general Singer 111 class. It's basic capabilities are not much different from later versions. The Singer 111W101 Manual (111w101.pdf) tells most of the story.

Downsides of these early models include the stitch length adjustment mechanism, which is a real pain to use and fix - there's a reason they abandoned this design detail in later models. The other potential problem is the fabric timing belt, which, if it breaks, may be hard or close to impossible to replace. While replacement neoprene timing belts are available and cheap, the required surgery to replace the belt can be daunting and the patient may not survive. I have a Singer with the same design and the broken fabric timing belt rendered the machine all but useless. The upper timing belt pulley has fused to the main shaft and will not allow me to install a new belt.

That motor is likely an electrical hazard and not worth bothering with. Plan to get a modern servo motor.

A Juki LU-563 or Consew 206RB would be a much easier-to-use and less painful choice to start with. 

Edited April 29, 2017 by Uwe

[melancholycoyote]

Thank you for the informative reply and the link to the manual. That's really good to know about the belt too, because apparently it needs replacing on the machine and I didn't think much of it, just figured it wouldn't be too difficult to replace. Thanks again, this was really helpful! Now I know in what direction to steer towards.  

[Constabulary]

old cloth timing belts may last longer than expected - I have a Singer 111WD (Made in Germany from before 1945 - a barn find + used as garden decoration) and its still has its cloth timing belt in good working condition where as the machine externally is poor.

Your machine has the old stitch length adjuster on the end of top the drive shaft near the hand wheel. Thats for sure not state of the art but it works but the machine also has no reverse. Unless you like vintage machines and like tinkering I would not buy even it if is cost more than maybe 150 - 200. But I really like the nice big table - that could be worth $100 or more alone. The mentioned Juki and Consew are for sure the easier to work with machines. However I personally would buy the machine if it is real cheap since I like old machines and tinkering very much but thats not everybody´s cup of tea.

If I were in your position I would choose the Juki LU-563

[leecopp]

Interesting stitch length, would like to see the xray view of that mechanism! Looks easier to adjust than on the 111w155.

Nice table. I have one from the same factory. Very solid. My family is from Reading Pa where it was made .. Dad worked on the Reading Railroad and Mom and GrandMom worked in the clothing factories.

Make sure not to oil the linked belt. Probably more sturdy than the horsehide belts on the 95-1.

Happy Day

[CowboyBob]

The upper shaft has a threaded end on it & a lot of times the threads get broken,BUT you can stil push the shaft all the way in & turn the scres from above to change stitch length as needed.

[leecopp]

Thanks Bob ..

I did see that diagram when scanning through the document, thought wow that is weird, and didn't really process what it was. Oh well.

 

Lee in Florida

[Wizcrafts]

At least half of the Singer 111 and 153 machines I've had have threads missing from the stitch length adjusting rod. I settle on the desired length and set it with the set screws and leave it alone. In fact, the only adjuster that is in good working condition now is on the end of my Singer 139w109 long body walking foot machine.

[gottaknow]

I'm rebuilding 2 153k103's. I'm waiting for the top shafts to arrive so I can replace them. I'm adding them to my binders stable. Both machines have broken threads on the stitch change mechanism and I need to have them functional so I can let the supervisors change them instead of me. All of our products have specific stitch length requirements. This mechanism is actually really ingenious but few folks understand how they work, so they end up breaking them. 

Regards, Eric 

[Uwe]

It's a mystery to me how you can break those threads in normal use with just your hands. It seems you have to hit that thumb knob hard with a hammer to obliterate the threads on the shaft (they seem hard and brittle to me.) Perhaps tilting an unmounted head back to rest on the hand wheel is a common source of injury if the thumb knob hits the surface with any force.

Edited April 29, 2017 by Uwe

[gottaknow]

 

It's a mystery to me how you can break those threads in normal use with just your hands. It seems you have to hit that thumb knob hard with a hammer to obliterate the threads on the shaft (they seem hard and brittle to me.) Perhaps tilting an unmounted head back to rest on the hand wheel is a common source of injury if the thumb knob hits the surface with any force.

The way they usually break is someone uses channel lock pliers to try and force the knob. The working part of the mechanism does tend to get stiff. As a matter of routine maintenance, I remove the spindle and shoot some oil in the shaft to keep things moving smoothly. One of the machines I'm rebuilding is getting a new hand wheel as well. I found original Singer shafts for $115.00. 

Regards, Eric 

[Wizcrafts]

 

The way they usually break is someone uses channel lock pliers to try and force the knob. The working part of the mechanism does tend to get stiff. As a matter of routine maintenance, I remove the spindle and shoot some oil in the shaft to keep things moving smoothly. One of the machines I'm rebuilding is getting a new hand wheel as well. I found original Singer shafts for $115.00. 

Regards, Eric 

Did you find the threaded and tapered point spindles? I need one for sure. Where did you get yours?

[gottaknow]

 

Did you find the threaded and tapered point spindles? I need one for sure. Where did you get yours?

It's funny you should ask. That's about the only part of that mechanism that doesn't break easily. I have several used ones I've collected over the years. More than happy to send you one. Pm me your address and I'll get one on the way.  Universal Sewing and DSI Sundbrand both carry them as well. 

Regards, Eric 

[Dduggan]

I’m looking at buying a 111w101 but I can’t get it to feed the leather I’m trying to sew any ideas? The needle goes up and down but it won’t feed at all.

[trash treasure]

Is the belt between the top and bottom shafts intact ? No feed, if that belt's broken or stripped ....

[Constabulary]

maybe safety clutch triggered - if it has one.

[CowboyBob]

On 2/26/2022 at 10:54 AM, Dduggan said:

I’m looking at buying a 111w101 but I can’t get it to feed the leather I’m trying to sew any ideas? The needle goes up and down but it won’t feed at all.

Try adjusting the stitch length,turn the knob will pushing in clockwise makes it longer (as long as the threads on the shaft aren't broken)