Thread issues Singer 111

[Work9to5]

Ok, so I've been playing with my new to machine and have figured some things out. I'll put my main questions in bold so they are easy to find. 

SHOULD I BE ABLE TO SEE THE BASE OF THE NEEDLE THROUGH THE HOLE ON THE "NEEDLE ARM"? Or is this hole provided to run thread through, before going to needle. (See photo 1)

I was able to clear up bobbin tangle issue and can now bring up the bobbin thread through the dogs. Hoping it does not tangle again. FROM THE PIC DOES ANYTHING LOOK OUT OF SCEW? (Photo 2)

Perhaps that curved hook should be moved more towards the bobbin holder? When it tangled I found that it was getting wrapped on the tiny "bar" that is part of the bobbin holder that touches the "feed dog plate". 

I am now able to stitch with it. Pretty exciting! Two issues. 1.) TOP STITCH DOESNT LOOK RIGHT TO ME, TOO STRAIGHT? TOO MUCH TENSION? While the bottom looks better to me. Thoughts?

top- photos 3 and 4

bottom- photo 5

When I take it slow and hand crank I'm able to provide a nice even stitch. The clutch motor can move pretty fast. But if I'm careful I'm able to control it ok. I have tried doing a moderate fast (for me stitch) without the use of the hand crank. WHEN I GO AT A FASTER SPEED THE MACHINE WILL TEAR THE UPPER THREAD, causes?

its 92 ploy bonded with a 22 needle. I do not think rubbing on the needle point is causing it. It seems to rub and pull with the material and the bottom string at a higher speed. Causing more tension in the top causing a burr to form in the string before it pops. 

Thank you ahead of time. I am a contributing member of a popular motorcycle forum. And started in the same way with that...asking questions and reading. Now 7 years later I'm a question answer and "goto guy" with certain model's engine. I hope to get the same enjoyment and knowledge out of this site and leather work as I have out of that site and motorcycles. 

 

Edited May 18, 2017 by Work9to5
Photos are too big for system

[Wizcrafts]

Use an image editor to reduce the file sizes. The easiest way is to downsize the dimensions while maintaining the aspect ratio. 800 x 600 is all you'll ever need on this forum. Your computer or smart phone may even have a built-in image manipulation program (App for you smartphone users).

If your images are JPGs, try finding an image editor that can reduce the quality as well as dimensions. I use this combo to reduce large JPGs to as little as 1/10th the original file size. I use Corel PaintShop Pro to edit photos. But, I find the free FastStone Photo Resizer to do a very good job with less to dink with.

[Work9to5]

42 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

Use an image editor to reduce the file sizes. The easiest way is to downsize the dimensions while maintaining the aspect ratio. 800 x 600 is all you'll ever need on this forum. Your computer or smart phone may even have a built-in image manipulation program (App for you smartphone users).

If your images are JPGs, try finding an image editor that can reduce the quality as well as dimensions. I use this combo to reduce large JPGs to as little as 1/10th the original file size. I use Corel PaintShop Pro to edit photos. But, I find the free FastStone Photo Resizer to do a very good job with less to dink with.

Resized photos to fit using app called "photo compress". Thanks Wiz

Edited May 18, 2017 by Work9to5

[Wizcrafts]

I think you need to either back off the top tension a tish, or increase the bobbin tension a bit, or move down to the next smaller needle number. If none of these things reliably center the knots, move down one thread size, along with a smaller needle size.

[mikesc]

Agree with everything wiz said..I was typing the same thing when the notification that wiz had posted showed up.

 

re the thread tearing at speed with a clutch motor..that will happen..you need to get a servo motor and probably a speed reducer ( or make the speed reducer yourself  ) then you'll have far better control...if you ew textile with the same clutch motor and set up on the machine it probably wont break the thread, but leather is "stickier" than textile and so the thread cannot get back up through the material as fast as it needs to when the speed goes up..using a bigger size needle can reduce that effect if you want to go fast, but apart from enjoying watching the needle smoke at high speed, why would you want to go fast..unless you are sewing loads of long straight lines like belts etc on a piecework basis.

Edited May 18, 2017 by mikesc

[Work9to5]

Okay guys, thank you for the input. I'll  look into it and report back. My gut feeling from your pointers is that bottom tension is causing it. As I have top tension backed out pretty far. 

[CowboyBob]

Ok, now my $0.02.

It appears to me that the needle is in backwards,you want to long groove on the left & the notch above the eye on the right.

[mikesc]

The bottom tension should be quite "slick"..not much pull needed to get the bobbin to revolve at all, but..only back off the tension at the bobbin by very small amounts at a time in between tests..tiny tweaks on the bottom tension are equivalent to a quarter to a half a turn on the top tension..and don't back off so much that you lose the tension screw on the floor ..

 

just seen Bobs comment..went back up and looked..

Yep missed that..Bob is "da man"..your needle is indeed 180 degrees out..( red face )

Edited May 18, 2017 by mikesc

[RockyAussie]

5 minutes ago, CowboyBob said:

Ok, now my $0.02.

It appears to me that the needle is in backwards,you want to long groove on the left & the notch above the eye on the right.

Your right, don't you just hate that????? Just think what the cost would be pre digital photos and internet.

[dikman]

I was just looking at the photos and thought "aha, the needle's in backwards" and felt pretty clever - then I found others had beaten me to the punch!

Don't feel too bad, work9to5, you aren't the first to do this and you won't be the last. At least it's an easy fix.