Video: Hook Timing Adjustment for Juki TSC-441 class machines (Cowboy CB-4500, Cobra Class 4, TechSew 5100, etc.)

[Uwe]

I spent some quality time with my Cowboy CB-4500 trying to wrap my head around the adjustment procedures for hook timing. Best way to learn is trying to teach somebody else. Which is one reason I make the videos - it helps me understand how things work. Hopefully others will find it useful, too.

Here's the video:

 

[Constabulary]

Uwe, once again - an excellent Video! What else can I say.... You have reinvented the hook timing - the dial and eraser wedge is a great idea... 

[brmax]

Outstanding instruction video!

Uwe, thanks again for your help. 

 

Good day

Floyd

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

I'll check back when I have more time, Uwe sets the standard when making these videos for sure.

[SolarLeatherMachines]

Uwe, Great video.  I'm impressed.  
 

[AdamPCain]

I haven't even bought a machine yet but am in a couple weeks. I have been watching your videos just to see what i am in for. Keep up the great content thanks

 

[GPaudler]

Beautifully done Uwe. I'm unfamiliar with those machines, will your method work on an Adler 105?

 

[CowboyBob]

As always,great video,well done !!

[Uwe]

2 hours ago, GPaudler said:

Beautifully done Uwe. I'm unfamiliar with those machines, will your method work on an Adler 105?

 

I doubt it. Some of the concepts may apply, though. I've never worked on an Adler 105 but I suspect they are very different inside from the 441 class. 

Thanks for all the kind feedback guys!

Edited June 8, 2017 by Uwe

[Bugstruck]

Uwe,

I know this topic is a bit dated but I wanted so say thanks. I knew I needed to do something with my 4500 as I did a quick adjust out of the box about a year ago to get it sewing reasonably right. Basically that was nothing more than advancing the timing more than it should be as it was lazy and catching the loop (more in reverse) and fraying thread. That temporary fix shouldn't have but it worked as well as it did but it was always noisier on the business end than I thought it should be (thread take-up mostly, like it was fighting the hook and shuttle to some extent) and I knew I needed to get back to it. Busy with other things. I was also using my Adler 067-373 (wish I'd seen your video on that before I overhauled mine) for some projects I'd have preferred to be on the 4500 with because I trusted it more. Watched your video (a few times or more) and dug in. Took the better part of the day (I'm not fast) and I stripped one of the small feed cam screws breaking it loose. You are right, those top end screws are tight. Don't use the allen set that comes with the machine. The ball end did that screw in (not enough surface bite). Anyhow, got that resolved for the moment (I'll need a new screw) as it's more of a temporary torx screw now.

Anyhow and to my point, that video is awesome. I have zero reservation going to that machine now and it is as quiet as I imagine one of these workhorses can be. I knew it needed work but the change surprised me, absolute pleasure to operate now. My needlebar did the same left to right movement you had in the video and you were absolutely correct, that ex-centric adjustment is sensitive/testy. Didn't take long but it was (4) times before I had it right.  

One thing I noticed being relatively new to this machine that anyone experienced would know..... Leaving any tail of thread on the bobbing after clipping it off causes it to drag on the frame below and jumps tension about pretty hard as the bobbin rotates. Leave a little tag, watch the open end of the bobbin case and pull some thread, you'll see and feel what occurs. Less than peanuts compared Uwe's contribution but it may help someone.  

Used your degree wheel, nice. Brake on the motor was my eraser. My handwheel sets much farther from the machine end than yours. I don't know what you use to film (can we still call it that?) but the clarity is unusually high quality.

Thanks again Uwe. My machine thanks you.