Consew 226R thread breaking and tension controller sticking

[Carrie88]

Is installing a servo motor something that a non-sewing machine mechanic can do? or is that not recommended? I would really like to do so but I'm worried it could be too expensive. The thought of the machine stitching slowly is a dream!

I've been using Tkt 20 (#138) - so this is also M20? that's good to know, I got pretty confused about that looking at thread for sale online in Aus. But I really wanted to use lighter thread for more inconspicuous topstitching. The lowest I've been able to go is Tkt 40 (#69) but I really wanted to use Tkt 20 (#46). I have found that my machine doesn't like any needle smaller than 120/19. The 14 and 16 size needles just seem to pierce the thread or the stitching really puckers up and then snaps. As soon as i put the bigger needle back in, it's happy again and starts stitching normally. 

I'm sewing quite light leather, making bags, kind of like pencil cases or zip up pouches for laptops etc. So the leather is no heavier than what would be used for a leather jacket - but it becomes double on the seams, or sometimes four thicknesses if I've added a little tab or something decorative. But I am also making little coin pouches using sheepskin garment leather which is very thin, but there is also a fabric lining and zip - so it's more than my home Janome could handle. So I topstitch along the zip on both sides and while the #138 or #69 looks nice on the bigger pouches, it doesn't look so nice on the smaller ones which is why I was trying to go down to thinner threads. 

Sorry I just realised I made a mistake, I meant to say I want to go down to Tkt 60 (#46) these codes are killing me!

[dikman]

Tkt 20 is close enough to M20 that any difference isn't worth worrying about.

Servos usually just use the existing motor mounting holes, and depending on the type may have a separate control box or it may be incorporated in the motor housing. You would probably need a different length drive belt, most likely shorter. If you're not confidant about fitting it if you know someone who is an electrician/technician and owes you a favour () they shouldn't have any problems fitting one, it's not that complicated.

That machine basically has similar performance to most of mine and they handle #69 and #138 with no adjustments needed, but if you're going to lighter weight thread it may need the timing re-adjusted. The manual says it can handle down to size 12 needles so I would think it should be able to handle that smaller thread, but it may need the timing, tension and checkspring adjusted slightly? Don't know for sure as I haven't tried lighter thread but I'm sure others who are more experienced will chime in. The fact it's working with the other thread/needle is good, as it means there's not much wrong.

[Carrie88]

Adjusting the timing sounds like a lot of work just to change threads. Perhaps I'll just stick with the thicker ones. I'm also a bit confused about needles - my manual says to use 135x17 which I am, but I have seen users of this forum saying that 135x16 are for leather work? should I be using these instead?

Also, I'm wondering if my tension discs are just not working properly - the tension is so tight, no matter how far out I wind the tension nut, it can be out as far as possible without falling off - and the thread is still so hard to pull through. I've see these whole tension assembly's for sale - perhaps I should just replace it. 

[dikman]

135/16 and 135/17 are virtually the same. My Pfaff is supposed to use 135/16 but I use 135/17 'cos that's what most of my other machines use. Dismantle the tension assembly and have a look at the inside of the pressure discs, sometimes they can get grooves in them. One of mine was like that, I smoothed and polished the discs with some very fine wet and dry paper and swapped the discs front to back (which changed the position of the grooves so that they didn't line up with the thread path). And yes, you can buy the tension assembly's pretty easily, but check out the one you have first and make sure it looks ok.

[Northmount]

Needle system size 135/16 is a leather point, 135/17 is a conical point.  Both are the same size/length.  Leather point doesn't blow out the back of the leather as badly as a conical point.  This version of leather point is like a chisel.

Anyone that is somewhat mechanically inclined should be able to help you switch motors.  Get a servo with the smallest pulley you can so the machine can run slower.

Tom

 

[LumpenDoodle2]

Hardest part of fitting a servo motor, is supporting the old clutch moter as you undo the bolts.   They are heavy beggers, so either get someone to take the weight, or use a car scissor or bottle jack.    

What I have done in the past, is pop a bit wood on top of the jack, between it and the motor.   You will probibly have to set the jack on a couple of bricks/wooden block/stool, to get the height.   Undo the bolts, while supporting motor on the jack to keep it stable.   Gently wind down jack with motor on it, then get passing strong person to remove it for you, or do it yourself.

Fitting the servo motor is easy.   Bolt on servo motor, screw on servo control box, fit belt, adjust tension, and off you go.   Lots of youtube vids on it, if you need them.

I agree about the pulley, get the smallest you can.   In the meantime, to control your clutch motor a bit better, pop a tennis ball under the pedal, or use a bungee cord.   The idea is to give a bit resistance to the pedal when you press it, and reduce the on/off feeling clutch motors can have.

[NCArcher]

Where in Sydney are you Carrie?

I have a 226R and I have fitted a servo to it (and i'm an electricain) . If you decide to go that way I would be happy to give you a hand.

 

[dikman]

That's a very generous offer, NC. Just goes to show, the nicest people use this forum......

Tom, thanks for enlightening me about the needle size (without calling me stoopid ). I was pretty sure that the ones I had were virtually identical, I'll have to have a closer look. Whilst I sort of understand the sizing numbers, I'm obviously still confused about system numbers and the point shapes/styles.  

[leecopp]

For clarification .. found a decent copy of the 111w155 manual which details threading . I dont remember the source , but the manual had a 1950 copyright.

 

 

[Carrie88]

Thanks leecopp - I also have a copy of that manual which I downloaded from the web - it's definitely more helpful than the consew manual. I also have a copy of the parts manual which I downloaded from South Star Supply online which has been very helpful when dismantling and reassembling for cleaning etc. When I bought the machine many of the parts were not attached, there was just a big bag of random screws and rods and things.

NCArcher - that is indeed a very kind offer. I live near the airport. I am not financially ready to invest in a servo motor yet but will definitely be in touch for advice when I do. In the meantime I have adjusted the brackets that attach the foot pedal, and I can control the machine fairly well. I have found this is also easier when the room is warmer (its winter in Aus currently). It seems a bit smoother rather than jarring fast and slow.

I have also found a bunch of extra parts which I will post a photo of. I think they are additional feet with an edge guide, perhaps for top stitching? as well as a flat plate which I have no idea of how to attach, plus a roller guide. I'm hoping that if I learn how to use these, I can really start to sew in straight lines!