plinkercases Report post Posted September 3, 2017 Hi folks, I cant fro the life of me remember or find which of you uses mop & glo to finish their work (with a little saddle soap after fro smell!)... I would like to try it and wonder if you buffed the finishes after or it retains the gloss/buffed finish to the leather below it? An confirm that it is 50/50 M&G and H2O... and do you literally "dunk" as in immerse the work or apply with a sponge/fleece? How do you avoid streaks, drios etc. if literally dunked. Also if you do buff this finish how long do you let the M&G dry before buffing? I love how it looks on your work and would like to see if I can replicate on some of current project which are at that last coat stage. Thanks in advance. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mattsbagger Report post Posted September 3, 2017 50/50 and wipe or airbrush on. Idk about saddle soap after I haven't seen that yet. It basically gets used just like Resoline. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted September 3, 2017 Do a search on here for a member named Katsass, . . . he was THE progenitor for M&G, . . . and if I recall correctly, . . . his process was equal parts of M&G and tap water. He did the "dunk and shake" routine, . . . and I believe at times it was multiple coats, . . . although I'm not certain on that. I'm happy with Resolene, . . . and other finishes, . . . so I don't use it myself. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NVLeatherWorx Report post Posted September 3, 2017 7 hours ago, plinkercases said: Hi folks, I cant fro the life of me remember or find which of you uses mop & glo to finish their work (with a little saddle soap after fro smell!)... I would like to try it and wonder if you buffed the finishes after or it retains the gloss/buffed finish to the leather below it? An confirm that it is 50/50 M&G and H2O... and do you literally "dunk" as in immerse the work or apply with a sponge/fleece? How do you avoid streaks, drios etc. if literally dunked. Also if you do buff this finish how long do you let the M&G dry before buffing? I love how it looks on your work and would like to see if I can replicate on some of current project which are at that last coat stage. Thanks in advance. Just be aware that Mop & Glo can crack, even if diluted, and it creates a very unpleasant look when it does; looks kind of like a spider web when it does it. This is a product that is not intended for use on flexible surfaces as it is a floor finish and not a fabric finish. I have known several soldiers over my vast years in service who used it to give their Jump Boots (yup, an Airborne thing) that extra glassy look and when I saw it I would make sure that their toe caps were pressed and that they got the spider web effect; Airborne Troopers don't cheat! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
plinkercases Report post Posted September 3, 2017 (edited) Thanks all so far. I had wondered about the flexibility. Both projects I am considering trying it on are hard shell holster and sheaths... I guess resolene and neet-lac are both flexible finishes? Still waiting for the original mop and glow guy here to show up and I think it may have been Colt Knight I think is the handle.... Edited September 3, 2017 by plinkercases Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt W Knight Report post Posted September 4, 2017 (edited) I have used Mop N Glo for several years now on purses, whats, boots, jackets, guitar straps, padfolios, holster, and other odds and ends. I thin 50/50 with water, and air brush it on. 2 thin coats and I'm done. I'll give it 3 or 4 if I want it shiny. 2 gives me that nice sheen I'm looking for. I have yet to have any cracking issues. Generally, cracking issues in finishes are caused by heavy applications. This is true with just about any finish. Edited September 4, 2017 by Colt W Knight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
plinkercases Report post Posted September 4, 2017 Thanks Colt... I think you once said off hand that a piece would get the "usual dunk in mop and glo" so I assume you don't really dunk... but spray apply as indicated above. Do you think sponge application would be too thick? also you say it "shines" but do you ever buff the M&G finish? and thanks again all for the feed back so far. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tomsmith85717 Report post Posted September 4, 2017 I use pledge with future shine on my miniature wargaming figures as the first coat of varnish. It is really just a thick acrylic that is water soluble. That said I have never used it on leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fredk Report post Posted September 4, 2017 Its similar but not quite the same. Our version of 'Pledge with Future Shine', formerly called Future or Kleer is as thin as water. Its is really like painting with water. I have used it on a couple of stiff knife sheaths. Only to lock some hand painted designs the colours of which I found would run with Resolene put on them. On one I put two coats, on another I used three. I would not go any more than that. None of the sheaths have shown any sign of varnish cracking or crazing I've used it a couple of times on flexible items, but only one coat. No adverse affects. All applications were by broad brush Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
