Members mwpdx86 Posted September 5, 2017 Members Report Posted September 5, 2017 I recently purchased a new consew p1206rb and am trying to use it with 138 thread in the top and bottom. It had been working great with 69 thread in both. With the 138 though, I find I'm having to crank the tension knob down as tight as it will go. It seems to work ok this way but I'm guessing you shouldn't have to max out the tension under regular circumstances? I'm 99% sure I've got it threaded correctly but maybe not? Is there anything else that usually causes something like this? Thanks! Quote
RockyAussie Posted September 5, 2017 Report Posted September 5, 2017 I have not got that machine but with most of the machines I have it is normal to have to increase the top thread tension as well as reduce the bobbin tension. What I do is have another bobbin case set up for the thicker thread so I don't have to fine tune adjust it when I go up in thread size.Regards Brian Quote Wild Harry - Australian made leather goodsYouTube Channel Instagram
Members Colt W Knight Posted September 5, 2017 Members Report Posted September 5, 2017 Yeah, Id say you need to adjust something somewhere else, I have a Consew 206 and I never have to max out the top tension to get it sew things correctly. When I had a similar problem, turned out I need to reduce bobbin tension by like 1/8 of a turn Quote
Members brmax Posted September 6, 2017 Members Report Posted September 6, 2017 Your saying that because ?possibly the bottom side thread is like banjo string tight and not yielding to the top, or not centering the knot in material. Am I picking this up correctly on the top tension maxed Its a great idea on the purchase of multiple bobbin cases, this I heard from others several times and so made it a priority in doing. Initially I had the question for myself on some of them tension gauges they sell. So I had an abstract method, get this, I used 27 grams of weight dropping over the table edge in a hokie made canvas pouch and was a good start for a new one in my 92 thread setup. This weight amount was from some projects that I thought the thread stitch was good. Good day Floyd Quote
Uwe Posted September 6, 2017 Report Posted September 6, 2017 Did you install a larger needle when you switched from size 69 to size 138 thread? Quote Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" ) Links: Videos
Members Colt W Knight Posted September 6, 2017 Members Report Posted September 6, 2017 (edited) Yeah, you will need a #23 needle for that #138, some folks get away wih #22, but I have to use a #23 Your bobbin thread should pull up without any tension Edited September 6, 2017 by Colt W Knight Quote
Members mwpdx86 Posted September 6, 2017 Author Members Report Posted September 6, 2017 The needles it came with were 160 (23) which had been sort of working with the thinner thread but I figured they'd work even better with the right size thread (138). I'm wondering if there's a bobbin issue. It seems pretty rough when it comes out of the bobbin case. Not like there's too much tension exactly but kind of jerky/catchy. This happens even when there's no tension on the bobbin (the little metal tab isn't touching the thread). I'm thinking maybe I wound it wrong somehow or...?? Quote
Uwe Posted September 6, 2017 Report Posted September 6, 2017 The bobbin does need to unwind evenly for best and predictable results. If the bobbin thread is catchy or jerky then your tensions and knot placement will be somewhat random and you will be very frustrated. Make sure your thread comes off the cone nice and smooth and that your thread guide hole is directly and far enough above the cone to provide even unwinding from the cone. Use a thread sock/net if the thread is springy and tends to unravel and fall down off the cone. I've also had thread cones that were sticky, usually old ones of unknown origin. Double check to your bobbin winding thread path and watch it as it winds (raise the feet and pull the top thread out of the needle when doing dedicated bobbin winding runs.) Try winding a perfect bobbin with very even winding tension and even windings. Or buy some pre-wound bobbins for testing or reference. Quote Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" ) Links: Videos
Members dikman Posted September 6, 2017 Members Report Posted September 6, 2017 Is the thread coming off the bobbin in the right direction? Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members mwpdx86 Posted September 19, 2017 Author Members Report Posted September 19, 2017 On 09/06/2017 at 11:47 AM, Uwe said: The bobbin does need to unwind evenly for best and predictable results. If the bobbin thread is catchy or jerky then your tensions and knot placement will be somewhat random and you will be very frustrated. Make sure your thread comes off the cone nice and smooth and that your thread guide hole is directly and far enough above the cone to provide even unwinding from the cone. Use a thread sock/net if the thread is springy and tends to unravel and fall down off the cone. I've also had thread cones that were sticky, usually old ones of unknown origin. Double check to your bobbin winding thread path and watch it as it winds (raise the feet and pull the top thread out of the needle when doing dedicated bobbin winding runs.) Try winding a perfect bobbin with very even winding tension and even windings. Or buy some pre-wound bobbins for testing or reference. It seems to be winding reasonably well, maybe a bit 'lumpy' sometimes but then it goes back and evens itself out, if that makes any sense. The bobbin winder was definitely not set up correctly when I got it though, so it's definitely an uncertainty. The knots are uneven, though, like you said (some centered, some on top, some on the bottom). The thread itself feels very stiff, which may be part of the problem. Kind of like crinkley fishing line or something. It feels rough coming out of the bobbin case no matter what the tension is set to. Quote
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