steelhawk Report post Posted December 3, 2017 I have been using Resolene, cut 50% on my double layer and other belts, done after neatsfoot oil has dried. I'm wondering if there is a better alternative. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cradom Report post Posted December 3, 2017 I use Mop&Glo cut 50/50 with water, then neutral shoe polish. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikermutt07 Report post Posted December 3, 2017 I just made my first belt. Single layer 8oz. I finished it with Aussie. I will see how it holds up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted December 4, 2017 6 hours ago, steelhawk said: I have been using Resolene, cut 50% on my double layer and other belts, done after neatsfoot oil has dried. I'm wondering if there is a better alternative. If you define the word "better" as cheaper, . . . yes there are. If you define it as a finish that will give your customer a better product, . . . you will probably have to get up real early in the morning, and stay up real late at night to do that. For the double layer belts I make, . . . I would not even think of putting anything else on there except maybe Mop and Glow, . . . all the others are much softer finishes, will scratch easier, will look much uglier, much quicker, . . . and not give your customer as good a product. The only reason I don't use M&G is I did a cost analysis for my business, . . . Resolene is cheaper for me to use, . . . and easier. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fredk Report post Posted December 4, 2017 Two thinned coats of Resolene followed by a beeswax/carnuba wax mix rubbed well in, both sides, and then buffed to a shine. Sometimes a beeswax /neetsfoot oil mix rubbed in [both sides] before the waxes, if I think the leather needs extra feeding Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jake907 Report post Posted December 4, 2017 (edited) Blood, sweat, and tears is always the best thing for leather. But if you can't do that for everything you make, Aussie is a close second. This is what Aussie looks like on new veg tan Edited December 4, 2017 by Jake907 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sanch Report post Posted December 6, 2017 +1 M&G but 60/40 or even 70/30 distilled water. Then Montana pitch blend or my blend. Warned with heat gun them buffed to a satin. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
YinTx Report post Posted December 6, 2017 On 12/3/2017 at 7:23 PM, Dwight said: If you define it as a finish that will give your customer a better product, . . . you will probably have to get up real early in the morning, and stay up real late at night to do that Man, I'm all ears for this one. I've always been a glutton for punishment, and for trying to provide high quality in materials and craftsmanship that my customers don't always understand (or pay for), but seem to appreciate. Seriously, this sounds like something I'd do, if only on a couple of items. What is it???? I have a recipe for a neatsfoot/beeswax/lanolin etc. finish I've concocted in my mind, but I haven't made it yet...I'm thinking February will be a nice cold time to warm up a stove and start melting things... YinTx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steelhawk Report post Posted December 11, 2017 Thanks for the tips. I'll try some of these out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites