stitching English point accurately

[alpha2]

I just did my first belt on the new Cowboy. I had practiced on 4 different practice ends first, and unfortunately, every one of them worked perfectly at the tip. I was concerned that the stitch length would put the hole in other than the right spot. Well, every one worked out, so I went for it. Unfortunately, THIS time, of course, it didn't work out. I tried to make the most of it, and it's not totally horrible, but not what I wanted. So, what is the procedure for making the turn at the point, if the stitches don't cooperate? I tried to intentionally mess one of the practice pieces up, just so I could make it work out right, and ended up skipping a stitch. 

I suspect that it involved raising the presser foot, and the needle, and aligning it by hand. That is what I did on the practice piece that caused a skipped stitch. Obviously did something wrong!

Any video on the process that any of you are aware of? I couldn't find one.

thanks,

Jeff

[Wizcrafts]

Use a silver or gold gel ink pen (from Hobby Lobby, etc) to place a dot at the exact point where the needle has to go at the tip. As you approach the turn slow down, hand wheel the machine and stretch or compress the stitch length to force the needle to hit that point. It will cover the ink if done correctly. With the needle buried in the point hole, wheel just enough to raise the needle about 1/4 inch. Raise the feet just enough to clear the leather, with the floor lifter pedal. Turn the work and continue sewing.

I assume you are using an edge guide, so I didn't mention it.

 

[alpha2]

So you hand stretch or compress the stitch length with the presser foot still down, right? I'l try that on a few pieces tonight. Thanks for tip.

Yes, I'm using an edge guide. I did pretty good with the guide on a couple of pieces, but on a long belt, I know I'd drift away at some point. 

Jeff

[Northmount]

1 hour ago, alpha2 said:

So you hand stretch or compress the stitch length with the presser foot still down, right? I'l try that on a few pieces tonight. Thanks for tip.

Yes, I'm using an edge guide. I did pretty good with the guide on a couple of pieces, but on a long belt, I know I'd drift away at some point. 

Jeff

You have to ease the presser foot up just enough to be able to slide the belt a little to line up the stitch at the tip.

Tom

[Wizcrafts]

As Tom said, slightly raising the feet lets you cheat the stitch length. The smooth top feed dog on the Cowboy/Cobra/Techsew 441 machines makes it easier to do this.

[alpha2]

Here's my practice points from a moment ago. I think I've got it. Thanks, guys!

 

[alpha2]

Ignore the poor placement of the belt-end punch...this was all about the point!

 

[RockyAussie]

1 hour ago, alpha2 said:

Ignore the poor placement of the belt-end punch...this was all about the point!

 

All good points mentioned above. I use a point tool a bit like an awl to poke a good mark into where I want the stitch to turn at the tip and this makes you learn to get it right every time. With practice you should be able to start stretching or condensing your stitches as you get close to that point.

[alpha2]

That's my plan, Aussie!

[garypl]

I don’t know if I am doing it correctly or if this is what everyone means by handstretching the stitch, but I use the stitch length adjustment to position the stitch so it hits the point.  Is this what you are referring to?

Gary

[Northmount]

42 minutes ago, garypl said:

I don’t know if I am doing it correctly or if this is what everyone means by handstretching the stitch, but I use the stitch length adjustment to position the stitch so it hits the point.  Is this what you are referring to?

Gary

That works too.  Depends on your preferences and your machine.  Some easy to adjust stitch length on the run, others not so easy.  And of course, you can see above that practice helps a lot.

Tom

[garypl]

2 minutes ago, Northmount said:

That works too.  Depends on your preferences and your machine.  Some easy to adjust stitch length on the run, others not so easy.  And of course, you can see above that practice helps a lot.

Tom

Thanks Tom - I will try adjusting the stitch length by hand - might be easier than fooling with the stitch length adjuster.

Gary

[keithski122]

I use a juki 563 and use the reverse lever too position the stitch on a corner.

[Gregspitz]

use an edge creaser and put a dot with your awl at the tip...4 stitches before getting to the point start planning...change stitch lengths appropriately

like anything it will take some time to get this down

usually finishing at the lugs in the same place is harder..I use the same method 

[alpha2]

43 minutes ago, keithski122 said:

I use a juki 563 and use the reverse lever too position the stitch on a corner.

I don't understand what you're describing. If you're approaching a corner, how do reverse to get there? I've got a reverse lever, but don't see how that will precisely put a stitch in a corner. I'm likely picturing it all wrong?

[alpha2]

36 minutes ago, Gregspitz said:

use an edge creaser and put a dot with your awl at the tip...4 stitches before getting to the point start planning...change stitch lengths appropriately

like anything it will take some time to get this down

usually finishing at the lugs in the same place is harder..I use the same method 

I can where that would work. I'm no where near the point yet where I could estimate 4 stitches from a certain point where the needle will end up! I know...practice. And what do you mean "at the lugs"? Is that a watch-band thing?

Thanks,

Jeff

[garypl]

As I approach the corner and I see my stitch will be too far ahead of the corner, I slowly move the stitch lever toward reverse, but not all the way .  You will see the foot move to the rear a bit - turn the fly wheel by hand and watch the tip of the needle.  When you are close to the surface, do the final adjustment and then push the needle into the leather.  Once it is set, you can go the rest of the way down and then lift the presser feet and rotate the leather 90 degrees.

Gary

mark a spot on a practice piece and sew to the spot, adjusting at the very end so you hit the spot dead on...

[alpha2]

Ah, I see. Lever doesn't go all the way to reverse, just enough to move the foot. I'll have to try that. Some serious practice is in my future. Thanks

[garypl]

1 hour ago, alpha2 said:

Ah, I see. Lever doesn't go all the way to reverse, just enough to move the foot. I'll have to try that. Some serious practice is in my future. Thanks

Exactly!

[Wizcrafts]

6 hours ago, alpha2 said:

I don't understand what you're describing. If you're approaching a corner, how do reverse to get there? I've got a reverse lever, but don't see how that will precisely put a stitch in a corner. I'm likely picturing it all wrong?

The reverse lever on an LU-563 floats the feed mechanism towards you, shortening the stitch length until it reverses completely.