Members utah leather Posted March 7, 2018 Author Members Report Posted March 7, 2018 3 hours ago, ljk said: my bootmaking is part of a 50 year adventure in sewing, fabric and leather fabrication. as I age my best attributes are my eyes, hands, and experience. standing all day is hard. youtube and facebook will be your University . start by watching videos till you learn the learn the basics. then scour junk shops for footwear that fit your size and style, pay special attention to "how to measure". while junking look for tools, tools, tools. now take your favorite boot apart to learn construction, then start looking for a last. you can probably do the whole deal to get started for less than $200. I just made a pair of penny loafers with a $8 leather package including veg. and chrome from Hobby lobby on sale. you're are into sewing machines, I make tool pouchs for some of the guys at work when asked, I put them together with copper rivets because I don't have a sewing machine, I am looking for an old used machine that will go through 3/8 thick leather ( 2 pieces of 3/16 sewn together around the edges and maybe up the middle to divide it into different pockets for tools ) I would like it to have some kind of flat ( table ? ) around it maybe foot pedal operated ? and american made if possible , do you have any idea where I could find something like this ? Quote
Members Matt S Posted March 7, 2018 Members Report Posted March 7, 2018 (edited) I know you specified US made, but William Lennon has been making great quality boots in the UK for over a century. I have two pairs of them and they are like tanks, and the company is happy to make alterations and customisations. I don't consider their prices exorbitant -- a pair of steel-caps starts at £60/$83, though of course you will have to add shipping to that. That's for directly moulded soles, if you want welted (replaceable) it goes up a little. Even their most expensive standard line is under £200/$277. As to sewing machines, that question is a bit like asking "which impact driver" -- there's a lot of options out there but not many are truly made in the USA any more. Used machines, unless from a reputable dealer, can be a bit of a crapshoot -- wear, work capacity, availability of consumables, accessories and spares... these all vary hugely from machine to machine and need some real homework. The most popular machines for small manufacturers and serious hobbyists on this forum are Chinese manufactured clones of Juki or Consew designs, setup and specified for leatherwork by US technicians. You can get a modern version of the excellent Singer 45 for $1000 ($1300 if you want reverse) complete with table, servo motor and speed controller. The 45k was/is a classic, a very rugged and simple machine that could handle some very heavy duty threads. They were made in their millions in Kilbowie, Scotland until someone twigged that it was cheaper to have them made in the Far East, where things like workers' rights and standards of living are far less fashionable. You may have more responses to your sewing machine question if you cross-post it to the sewing machine section. There are some truly excellent machine technicians, operators and dealers who post there and are very free with their knowledge. There is a fantastic pinned topic by @Wizcrafts which gives you a primer on sewing machines for leather: Edited March 7, 2018 by Matt S Quote
bikermutt07 Posted March 7, 2018 Report Posted March 7, 2018 I found this website from Tim Skyrme http://www.shoemakingbook.com/index.htm This looks like it could be the most put together book. I don't know if it covers making a last or not? Finding lasts in small quantities may prove to be the hardest part. Quote I'm not paying 80 bucks for a belt!!! It's a strip of leather. How hard could it be? 4 years and 3 grand later.... I have a belt I can finally live with. Stitching is like gravy, it's only great if you make it every day. From Texas but in Bossier City, Louisiana.
ljk Posted March 7, 2018 Report Posted March 7, 2018 lI have no financial interest in this thread just trying to help. my go to machine in Fl. is a $2.00 auction bought 111w155 my thread is a $6.00 spool of bag sewing thread. you should learn to handstitch by doing those tool pouches, with a awl and some John Roberts needles your good to go. use two different colors of thread to prove it's done by hand. machines keep the top thread and bobbin thread on the bottom. I sew my uppers by machine (LIGHT LEATHER CAN BE DONE WITH OLD BLACK SINGER AND TEFLON OR ROLLER FOOT). my soles are done by hand in front of the computer (netflix) at night. I sew my insole to midsole and my midsole to outsole. all leather!!!!!!!! if you want a 3/8" plus leather sewing machine follow the advice of the forum members. the leather for the boots was home tanned veg elk I did myself. keep in touch tx Lynn Quote
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