Members Bodean Posted March 12, 2018 Members Report Posted March 12, 2018 That is an awesome display of craftsmanship. Quote
Members diibbles134 Posted March 13, 2018 Members Report Posted March 13, 2018 What do you use as finish after you dye your pieces? Quote
Rossr Posted March 13, 2018 Report Posted March 13, 2018 Something for all of us to aspire to in your work there Frank. Keep up the great work Ross Quote
Members plinkercases Posted March 13, 2018 Members Report Posted March 13, 2018 Welcome back to the forum and I love your work. Quote "Oh my God....I beseech thee grant me the grace to remain in Thy Presence; and to this end do Thou prosper me with Thy assistance, receive all my works, and possess all my affections" Brother Lawrence c.1614-1691 plinkercases.ca
Frank Posted March 13, 2018 Author Report Posted March 13, 2018 Thanks everyone. I do very much appreciate it. As far as the finish coat, 99% of the time, I use Fiebing's Bag Kote. Bag Kote produces the nicest looking finish IMO. If I need a tougher finish and a resist, then I use Fiebing's Tan Kote. The coin business card holster was a little tricky. If I remember correctly, the center hole on the rosette was 2 punch sizes smaller than the edge of the coin. This gives enough "meat" to stitch and trap the coin in there. I think the stitch line was about an 1/8 inch from the inside edge. Scribe the stitch line with a dividers, then mark your stitch holes. Hand punch the holes in the rosette, then lay the rosette on the project and transfer the markings over to the project then punch those holes (be sure to lightly mark the top stitch hole on the rosette, so you know where to line it up). Start stitching in the middle on either the left or right side, depending on you, and stitch down and around the bottom to the other side. When the stitching is less than half way done, slide a flat bone folder inside the rosette to stretch it out a bit, right up to the stitching. Slide the coin in and push it in there hard to seat it up against the stitching, but make sure you have it centered. They can be a bugger to turn inside the rosette. Then start stitching the rest of the way. It just takes patience. Quote Never argue with a stupid person. They'll just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience!!
Members keithpip Posted March 13, 2018 Members Report Posted March 13, 2018 Thank you Frank! Keith Quote
Members AdamLVL Posted March 16, 2018 Members Report Posted March 16, 2018 Really beautiful pieces. I love the studded belt and holster set. Quote
Members OLDNSLOW Posted March 16, 2018 Members Report Posted March 16, 2018 I think I said this above but your work is really top notch!! I would like to know what stamp was used on the holster and knife sheath, also is the pattern for the shoulder holster rig your own? Thanks Again! Quote
Frank Posted March 16, 2018 Author Report Posted March 16, 2018 Thanks again. As far as the stamp on the sheath and holster, that is a Barry King Sea shell stamp without the optional filler stamp. As far as the western style shoulder holsters, yes they are my own pattern. I used and modified the top shoulder strap and the lacing hole pattern from Al Stohlman's How To Make Holsters. The M3 Tanker style is close to the original, I just made the straps wider, added a sliding shoulder patch, and used all Sam Browne Studs instead of snaps. The double 1911 Shoulder rig (holster pattern itself) was given to me by Ray Cory who used to own Lobo Gunleather. Quote Never argue with a stupid person. They'll just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience!!
Members 3248tm Posted March 20, 2018 Members Report Posted March 20, 2018 Thanks for sharing the projects and tips can't wait to see some more. Quote
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