motocouture Report post Posted March 20, 2018 Sneaking in another project for myself before honoring my promise to hubby to make him another watch band for his Apple Watch (I think he’s getting a little spoiled, but it’s how I justify the leather stash ). This one will be the same design as the last clutch prototype, done this time in a mink-colored Nile croc. From memory, the croc hide was about 32cms wide, grade I/II, in a Millenium (matte) finish. Will be lining with some incredible olive HAAS calf (thanks @nstarleather!), with hardware from Ohio Bag Supply. Stitched in Lin Cable 532, with KS 3.00mm irons. First step was that terrifying moment where you have to make the first cut . Luckily all went well, and I managed to get all the pieces out and still have nearly the full tail left. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
motocouture Report post Posted March 20, 2018 Oh and just to warm up, finally got around to covering my dive weights (0.5 and 1lb) with some scrap Horween, instead of an old dish cloth, to use as pattern weights. Have also been experimenting with pigments, thanks to inspiration from @RockyAussie ! I mixed some pearlex dry pigment with the matte edge paint, and it gives a surprisingly nice sheen (especially since I was pretty rough and ready with the edges). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KingsCountyLeather Report post Posted March 20, 2018 Looking forward to seen the different stages of this project again. Looking good already. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rodneywt1180b Report post Posted March 21, 2018 Beautiful skin. I think it will be a great bag. Getting out the popcorn for this one.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
motocouture Report post Posted March 21, 2018 17 hours ago, KingsCountyLeather said: Looking forward to seen the different stages of this project again. Looking good already. Thank you! The croc is great to work with, and a lot easier after doing a prototype 38 minutes ago, rodneywt1180b said: Beautiful skin. I think it will be a great bag. Getting out the popcorn for this one.... Thanks, it’s a great color in person, too (hard to capture in the photos). Hopefully I’ll keep you and the popcorn entertained! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
motocouture Report post Posted March 21, 2018 Photo of my test runs on edge paint + pearlex pigment, and gussets in process Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KingsCountyLeather Report post Posted March 21, 2018 665 the winner? Will the thread match the edge paint or a contrasting colour? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
motocouture Report post Posted March 22, 2018 17 hours ago, KingsCountyLeather said: 665 the winner? Will the thread match the edge paint or a contrasting colour? Yes, 665 is the winner! Matches the croc beautifully. Going with a beige thread, that will be a soft contrast with the croc. The hardware is going to be gold, so didn’t want too much going on. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KingsCountyLeather Report post Posted March 22, 2018 I’m sure it will turn out perfect! You’re such an inspiration to other leather workers and showing us all the process you have to go through. This satchel I finally sewed together last night is my first bag to make. It is a lot of work and even though its not finished and also not perfect, You were the inspiration for me to do it at all. As I was stitching all the pieces together there were times I thought would it ever end? I thought of when you were making your red bag and kept going. So please keep up the good work! Also... Maybe it might help other leather workers... I use latex finger protectors only on my thumbs when stitching, you have almost a viselike grip on the needles and still feel everything at the same time and also takes care of the occasional bloody finger as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
motocouture Report post Posted March 23, 2018 (edited) Thank you so much! Completely made my day. Glad that my pain and frustration can maybe help ease someone else’s that is a stunning bag! Really clean lines, stitching looking great, and I love the contrast with the edging. Well designed! Edited March 23, 2018 by motocouture Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
motocouture Report post Posted March 23, 2018 Some more progress pics (in between shoveling snow it was a lot, for spring...). Finished the gussets, creased the edges with my heated edge creaser, and stitched the top edges. Also stitched and edged the internal pocket for the lining. Next up are the straps. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
motocouture Report post Posted March 23, 2018 Here is a pic of the straps being cut. Made a template out of clear file divider, then worked out if you sprayed the back of the plastic with 3M 45 adhesive, it doesn’t slip all over the place, and doesn’t hurt the croc. This hardware (thanks Ohio Bag Supply) is slightly different than the previous hardware. For this set, the leather isn’t exposed in the slot that slides over the main post, so the hole in the leather needs to be cut a bit larger to accommodate the internal metal lip. Cut a quick template to help later. I also reinforce the ends of the strap with some kitchen cutting mat - figuring most of this out as I go along, but reckon the reinforcement will help at the flex / stress point between the hardware and straight leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KingsCountyLeather Report post Posted March 23, 2018 5 hours ago, motocouture said: Some more progress pics (in between shoveling snow it was a lot, for spring...). Finished the gussets, creased the edges with my heated edge creaser, and stitched the top edges. Also stitched and edged the internal pocket for the lining. Next up are the straps. We had a snow storm here and it shut us down for a few days and that’s when i decided to make my bag. Thanks for the nice comments. When you make your crease line, do you purposely burn the line into the leather or is that a shadow? Nice and crisp! And the dark line is a nice contrast. What is the thickness of the leather? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
motocouture Report post Posted March 24, 2018 That’s a good way to avoid cabin fever during a snowstorm My pleasure! its a little of both. Still experimenting with my regad creaser (croc takes a lot less heat), but some is just shadow. I love the finished look the creaser gives. The leather is I’d say about 1 to 1.2mm for the croc, and 3-3.5 lbs for the calf lining (just a touch thicker than the croc). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tugadude Report post Posted March 24, 2018 Cool stuff! I love your reference to "the first cut". Can't tell you how many times I've hesitated and double-checked before putting knife to leather. Keep up the good work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikermutt07 Report post Posted March 24, 2018 (edited) Love how it is turning out. Keep it coming. I noticed you had a Knipschield French model knife in one pic, but what is that other headknife? Edited March 24, 2018 by bikermutt07 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
motocouture Report post Posted March 24, 2018 9 hours ago, Tugadude said: Cool stuff! I love your reference to "the first cut". Can't tell you how many times I've hesitated and double-checked before putting knife to leather. Keep up the good work. Thank you!! I do the same with fabric layouts as well, cos as you know, once you cut.... 2 hours ago, bikermutt07 said: Love how it is turning out. Keep it coming. I noticed you had a Knipschield French model knife in one pic, but what is that other headknife? Thanks! Should get some more time at it this weekend. The other one is a Knipschield “Texas Rosebud”, a slightly smaller version of the traditional head knife. Also have his bevel point knife (which is soooooooooo sharp). Looking to add his skiving knife and curved detail knife to my collection, so if anyone has one spare lying around that they want to part with.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikermutt07 Report post Posted March 24, 2018 Oh, the ones on his site don't show that little cutaway on the tips of the blade. I have the French model, the curved detail, and the bevel point knife. That thing is much longer in person. These will be pryed from my cold dead hands. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mjolnir Report post Posted March 24, 2018 clutch vs. watchband. Hmmm. Happy wife= happy life! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MoRoadglide11 Report post Posted March 24, 2018 I'm still looking for the perfect cowboy boot to make myself a watchband....the search continues.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JeannieH Report post Posted March 25, 2018 That looks great so far! I haven’t attempted a structured bag or clutch yet. Definitely on the list. Can’t wait to see the finished product! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
motocouture Report post Posted March 25, 2018 22 hours ago, bikermutt07 said: These will be pryed from my cold dead hands. +1 on that! 21 hours ago, Mjolnir said: clutch vs. watchband. Hmmm. Happy wife= happy life! Exactly!!! Especially when the wife has access to sharp Knip knives 21 hours ago, MoRoadglide11 said: I'm still looking for the perfect cowboy boot to make myself a watchband....the search continues.... Oh that’s a cool idea! Would love to see how that works out 14 hours ago, JeannieH said: That looks great so far! I haven’t attempted a structured bag or clutch yet. Definitely on the list. Can’t wait to see the finished product! Thank you! They are definitely challenging but fun. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KingsCountyLeather Report post Posted March 25, 2018 On 24/3/2018 at 2:13 AM, motocouture said: That’s a good way to avoid cabin fever during a snowstorm My pleasure! its a little of both. Still experimenting with my regad creaser (croc takes a lot less heat), but some is just shadow. I love the finished look the creaser gives. The leather is I’d say about 1 to 1.2mm for the croc, and 3-3.5 lbs for the calf lining (just a touch thicker than the croc). I’ve been looking at your past projects, really good work! I have a couple of questions... When you are sewing with Lin cable thread, what size needles do you use and are they Johnjames needles? Did you ever finish the wooden stump? You returned to leather working early 2017, how much experience did you have before then? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
motocouture Report post Posted April 7, 2018 On 3/25/2018 at 3:28 PM, KingsCountyLeather said: I’ve been looking at your past projects, really good work! I have a couple of questions... When you are sewing with Lin cable thread, what size needles do you use and are they Johnjames needles? Did you ever finish the wooden stump? You returned to leather working early 2017, how much experience did you have before then? My apologies, completely missed replying to this! Thank you so much! i use John James size 4 needles, with 532 Lin thread. Considering trying some of the other threads out there on my next project though (Amy Roke, Vinymo), as I don’t like the occasional unevenness of the Lin thread. No! It’s still curing in the garage. I keep bugging hubby to level the top for me. Maybe once it finally stops snowing here..... A small amount of experience as a kid, between self taught, a Ron Edward book or two, and tripping up my local saddler in his shop. Hadn’t really touched leatherwork since then, but have done a lot of couture sewing, which I think really helps with understanding design / pattern making, and an “engineering” type approach to projects. And this forum and its members have been amazing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
motocouture Report post Posted April 7, 2018 Finally managed to pry myself free for an hour from work and rediscover how much left I have to do on my clutch Managed to get some edging done on the straps and gussets, and line the main body. Shoutout to @RockyAussie for the advice on the foam liner . He recommended some great products, for thin, dense foam, but because I have no patience, I decided to try out some kitchen drawer no -slip liner from the Container Store just down the road. So far, so good - it skived well, doesn’t adversely react to the Rena glue, and gives a bit of body to the soft croc without being too “fluffy”. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
