Bobbin holder case

[Bert51]

Brian, looks like you have designed them to be stacked, better then chucked in a small box like mine.

[RockyAussie]

11 hours ago, garypl said:

Brian, this technology is amazing.  How do you go about learning how to make stuff like this?  Seems to me you have to be a computer programmer to actually create the file?

Thanks again for taking the time to document what you are doing and the great pics!

Gary

Hi Garry, I learnt how to draw up my patterns in Auto cad many years ago and did not know it even did 3D stuff. At first it was a mind bender but really its not that hard when you get used to it. I am by no means a techi type and I tackle most of this in my own very simple way of doing things. Mostly its sort of taking your 2D drawing say a box, and combining it into 1  polyline that is connected all the way around and then raising it (extruding) to whatever height I want. If I want holes in it I make a circle ...extrude it ...put it into the now cube and then you subtract it. Bingo there is now a hole in the cube.  Main rule is to put a handle like a line hanging out an inch and another handle off of it going up (Z direction)an inch and make sure you keep copying these along with new changes. This makes it easier to see and give an easy line up location when you put some thing new into the drawing. Lesson Over

Brian

10 hours ago, Bert51 said:

Brian, looks like you have designed them to be stacked, better then chucked in a small box like mine.

Yes I'm quite happy with it. It takes up very little space next to the bobbin winder and is handy. Plenty of room for various arrangements to be made. I even considered a bigger lazy Susan style that could have 4 or more of them from a central point but....to me clarity in design is 100 shades of grey turning into 10 shades of colour.

[dikman]

I like it!! Only one slight problem (for me) - I don't use those long bobbins. What's the diameter of the holes, just wondering if my Singer/Pfaff bobbins will fit?

[RockyAussie]

8 minutes ago, dikman said:

I like it!! Only one slight problem (for me) - I don't use those long bobbins. What's the diameter of the holes, just wondering if my Singer/Pfaff bobbins will fit?

The diameter of the holes is 25mm but you should be able to scale it down in Curra or whatever program when converting the stl to the G code. I will try and get an stl file made for the smaller bobbins sometime this week if you like as I think I like that idea somewhat myself. 

[dikman]

That would be good and might suit a wider audience. The Singer/Pfaff bobbins aren't quite the same diameter (which I'm sure you already know) so making it for the wider one should cover a wider range of bobbins. One other thing that occurred to me is that you could obviously stack 2 or 3 of the smaller bobbins in each of the slots, so if the top piece was made with a hole in it that could be rotated to a particular slot then the bobbins in that slot could be emptied out without tipping the whole lot out.

[garypl]

2 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Hi Garry, I learnt how to draw up my patterns in Auto cad many years ago and did not know it even did 3D stuff. At first it was a mind bender but really its not that hard when you get used to it. I am by no means a techi type and I tackle most of this in my own very simple way of doing things. Mostly its sort of taking your 2D drawing say a box, and combining it into 1  polyline that is connected all the way around and then raising it (extruding) to whatever height I want. If I want holes in it I make a circle ...extrude it ...put it into the now cube and then you subtract it. Bingo there is now a hole in the cube.  Main rule is to put a handle like a line hanging out an inch and another handle off of it going up (Z direction)an inch and make sure you keep copying these along with new changes. This makes it easier to see and give an easy line up location when you put some thing new into the drawing. Lesson Over

Brian

Brian - you lost me at your 4th sentence!  I don’t have the time or inclination to learn whatever it is you are doing to make the programs.  I guess I will wait for someone to make and sell them!  Again, thank you for all the interesting topics you post here.

Gary

[dikman]

A couple more thoughts, Brian, I measured my bobbins and the Seiko is 1", the others slightly under so although they'd be a bit loose (which won't matter) they'll fit the existing design. Not knowing the height I don't know how many would fit in each slot, of course. This would mean that all the existing lid needs is a hole in it for loading/unloading (to use the firearm vernacular ).

If you made one specifically for the smaller bobbins, so it only held one in each slot then by keeping the central shaft long one could simply stack them on top of each other. Lots of possibilities here .

[dikman]

Thought I'd experiment with this. I started with a top piece so reduced the height and punched out one of the rebates to make a through hole. First problem, it only laid down a single layer before starting the rebates and as you can see it's not fused together (too far apart), second it warped when I removed it even though I used a heated bed, third the rebates aren't wide enough for my Seiko bobbins and fourth I seem to have introduced some distortion while messing around with the file .

Back to the drawing board (in this case 123D). Wish I knew what I was doing .

 

Edited August 22, 2018 by dikman

[RockyAussie]

19 minutes ago, dikman said:

Thought I'd experiment with this. I started with a top piece so reduced the height and punched out one of the rebates to make a through hole. First problem, it only laid down a single layer before starting the rebates and as you can see it's not fused together (too far apart), second it warped when I removed it even though I used a heated bed, third the rebates aren't wide enough for my Seiko bobbins and fourth I seem to have introduced some distortion while messing around with the file .

Back to the drawing board (in this case 123D). Wish I knew what I was doing .

 

Hey I'm thinking that maybe you have just scaled it down and every thing has compressed beyond useful?? Give me the diameter and depth of the bobbin hole and I'll load up an stl if you like. You do want one bobbin hole going right through? Let me know. I am curious why your bottom layer is not connecting and possibly you need to increase the flow from 100 to 103% if it is on the hundred% that is.It could also be that your nozzle is a little bit to far away from the platform. I get it down less than a Tallo-Ho paper if I can and my first layer is always smooth as.

[dikman]

Thanks for the offer, Brian. I've printed out quite a few things before and never had this problem so it's obvious that my fiddling around with the file has caused the issue.

The bobbin measures 25.67mm/1.01" D x 11.2mm/.44" high. I figure it needs a smidgin more diam. to fit comfortably. My idea is to maybe stack two or three bobbins per slot, which is why the lid will need a hole so it can be rotated to the stack I want and then just tip out those. Singer bobbins will obviously be a bit loose (smaller diam.) but should still work. I should have just made a new (solid) lid with a centre hole and 1 hole at the edge, I guess.

I still want to try and figure out what I did wrong.

It's an hour later and I found out what I did wrong! I used the "scale" function to lower the height of the cylinder significantly, which, of course, meant that it also shrank the bottom layer accordingly - down to one layer of filament!! I'm learning..........

Edited August 22, 2018 by dikman