Wallet Edges

[samNZJP]

If you could describe this possible stitching/edging procedure, what do you think it is?

 

sam

[Stetson912]

The stitching just takes practice. I can't tell if it was machine stitched or hand stitched. But both would just take practice, a machine could utilise an edge guide however. 

The edges are edge painted with multiple coats then polished probably with beeswax and hot iron. Some people use an acrylic sealer instead like resolene. 

[samNZJP]

How does he get the lines so straight

[Stetson912]

Do you mean the stitch lines of the crease lines on the pockets?

Stitch lines, if done by hand, would be marked out using wing dividers. If by machine, usually an edge guide would be used that keeps the material a certain distance from the edge. And practice, lots and lots of it haha.

The creases are done with a creaser. Some are set widths and are electric and heat up, others are a set size and are heated over an alcohol flame, and a third adjustable type that is used in the same fashion is also heated over alcohol flame. Once hot, the tool is run over the edge of the leather leaving a nice crease in it. 

The straightness of both stitching and crease lines depends 100% on the straightness of the cut edge of the leather nearest the line. 

Also, the use of straight edges is a good idea. 

[Grihm]

That is without a doubt machine stitched. The edges can be done in several ways, but what i do is leather-fat and a round wood burnisher. Depending on how long you spend at it, the edges gets better and better.

[bikermutt07]

  On 8/28/2018 at 1:16 AM, Grihm said:

That is without a doubt machine stitched. The edges can be done in several ways, but what i do is leather-fat and a round wood burnisher. Depending on how long you spend at it, the edges gets better and better.

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Wait, what? Leather fat? That's a new one for me, please elaborate.

[Grihm]

  On 8/28/2018 at 1:20 AM, bikermutt07 said:

Wait, what? Leather fat? That's a new one for me, please elaborate.

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I use GoldQuality Laederfedt ( leatherfat ) but i suppose most call it wax. 

[bikermutt07]

@Grihm thanks.

[Grihm]

  On 8/28/2018 at 1:28 AM, bikermutt07 said:

@Grihm thanks.

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Glad to help. That product changed everything about leathercrafting for me. Also used perfectly as hairgel at the Viking event at Birka  

[thefanninator]

ZJ hand stitches. He even sells pricking irons.

https://www.instagram.com/zj.handwork/

 

A lot of the Asian leathercrafters use dye, lots of sanding to very high grits and CMC, tokonole or wax to finish their edges. They paint some too.

Edited August 28, 2018 by thefanninator

[krominix]

  Quote

  On 8/28/2018 at 1:16 AM, Grihm said:

That is without a doubt machine stitched. The edges can be done in several ways, but what i do is leather-fat and a round wood burnisher. Depending on how long you spend at it, the edges gets better and better.

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That's hand stitched. All his work is hand stitched.

[samNZJP]

Yeah I was wondering about how he paints or dyes those edges so straight. What’s CMC?

 

sam

[krominix]

  On 8/28/2018 at 3:49 AM, samNZJP said:

Yeah I was wondering about how he paints or dyes those edges so straight. What’s CMC?

 

sam

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Its a lot simpler than you think. Make your patterns over sized 4mm. Assemble them as usual. When assemble is complete, prior to marking stitch holes, trim the excess 4 mm off with a vary sharp blade. This leaves you with the perfect edge that requires 0 sanding. If you are working with chrome tan use edge paint like fenice, if you are using veg tan use the Bob Park method. 

[samNZJP]

  On 8/28/2018 at 4:29 AM, krominix said:

Its a lot simpler than you think. Make your patterns over sized 4mm. Assemble them as usual. When assemble is complete, prior to marking stitch holes, trim the excess 4 mm off with a vary sharp blade. This leaves you with the perfect edge that requires 0 sanding. If you are working with chrome tan use edge paint like fenice, if you are using veg tan use the Bob Park method. 

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Yeah I make things larger, I still have them a quick sand though, maybe I won’t do that next time.

for me bob parks method works fine up until dying. I just can’t get a clean looking edge with paints/dyes. I can get it pretty good for a natural look but paint isn’t my strong suit

[Grihm]

  On 8/28/2018 at 2:07 AM, krominix said:

That's hand stitched. All his work is hand stitched.

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Thank you for making me aware. Did not know they made prongs that thin, but found images of it now. If he really stitches like that by hand, i salute the masterwork. Exquisite performance and such details. A detail like that will up the price, and it should.

[Sheilajeanne]

Beautiful work! What type of leather is he using for the pockets and lining?

[krominix]

  On 8/28/2018 at 4:44 PM, Sheilajeanne said:

Beautiful work! What type of leather is he using for the pockets and lining?

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That’s french goat skin called chèvre sully from the tannery Alran SAS. 

[Sheilajeanne]

I can't figure out if the edge of the card pockets has been left showing, or if it has been turned and glued?

Gosh, oh to have that level of skill... 

[krominix]

  On 8/28/2018 at 6:52 PM, Sheilajeanne said:

I can't figure out if the edge of the card pockets has been left showing, or if it has been turned and glued?

Gosh, oh to have that level of skill... 

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As I stated earlier, it was painted with acrylics edge paint. There is a lot of different brands out there. A good one to start with is fenice - I’ve had very good luck with this brand 

[RusticLeatherShop]

Thats done with an binding Attachement to the machine.

Or it's glued on with some sort of rubber edge. I have such an chair with rubber glued on. It falls off and peels off after about 1 month.

[krominix]

  On 8/28/2018 at 11:36 PM, RusticLeatherShop said:

Thats done with an binding Attachement to the machine.

Or it's glued on with some sort of rubber edge. I have such an chair with rubber glued on. It falls off and peels off after about 1 month.

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Your experience with the chair is  most likely accurate but as far as the wallet in question your are incorrect. It as a water based edge paint. When applied properly (heat, sand, heat, sand, heat again) in layers and sealed with wax it is a very durable edge that will last many years. 

 

Reader beware, there is a lot of false info in this thread. 

[RusticLeatherShop]

For leather "many years" is not good enough since a peeled off edge is uggly.

I would not trust any paint as edge material. Most likely if will crack and fall off within 1 month.

Indeed those look like an binder has done it's work there.

[NVLeatherWorx]

  On 8/28/2018 at 11:40 PM, krominix said:

Your experience with the chair is  most likely accurate but as far as the wallet in question your are incorrect. It as a water based edge paint. When applied properly (heat, sand, heat, sand, heat again) in layers and sealed with wax it is a very durable edge that will last many years. 

 

Reader beware, there is a lot of false info in this thread. 

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So, with your responses so far on this topic one would think that you are the person behind the work being talked about. Is that the case?  If so, nice work and it is truly nice.  If not, then please explain to us how you know that, for instance, the stitching is all done by hand.  I say this because those stitching lines, with that standard machine thread, do not look like they are hand stitched, and that is why others have asked that question.  So, if you have more information on this item and would like to help everyone understand it better don't hold back on it.

And, on another note.  I would be very careful making a statement of: Reader beware, there is a lot of false info in this thread.  I say this because you have several very experienced professional leather craftsmen reading the threads throughout this forum and they do occasionally offer some information which is based on years of experience and making a statement of that type is quite offensive to those of us who are not new to this trade.  Just be careful and tread lightly is always a good policy.

[krominix]

  On 8/28/2018 at 11:46 PM, RusticLeatherShop said:

For leather "many years" is not good enough since a peeled off edge is uggly.

I would not trust any paint as edge material. Most likely if will crack and fall off within 1 month.

Indeed those look like an binder has done it's work there.

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Even your standard burning edge needs to be touched up from time to time from abrasion. I’m not sure what you are getting at here. It seems to me that you zero experience with how to properly paint an edge with high quality edge paint or the process that it goes into said edge. Wallets with this kind of edge when done by a crafter who knows how to do it right will last the life of the wallet. An ocasional beeswax buff may help if An issue is to arise although unlikely. You wouldn’t put an edge like this on a holster or sheath, but for a wallet or a purse it is a viable option on chrome tanned leathers since you cannot burnish then properly.  

[RusticLeatherShop]

The blue wallet is definatelly finished with an edge binding attachment with an sewing machine.

Both are done with an sewing machine (the sligthly Offset thread line is tipical of an leather needle). It's #69 or #138 thread (rather #69).

The orange wallets I can not see as clear so I cant know for sure how the edge is done. But as well sewn with an machine.

Nice work though! ... but painted edges?! maaah! Not for me.