Glue on edges squeeze out, won't burnish well

[AllanD]

I use glue to hold pieces together for stitching, which is usually along an edge. I have tried a couple of different contact cements that stores have recommended. I have watched many videos and folks put the glue right along the edge. When I press the two pieces of leather together, I get a little squeeze out and it is impossible to clean off and get a nice burnish on the edge. The glue residue leaves a little dark hard spot that won't burnish well.I tried an eraser like Rusty recommends, tried sanding it down, and tried everything else I can think of. I tried stitching without glue and that was a mess.

It seems any glue may leave some residue, but many of the videos I have watched, no one seems to have any problem like this They glue over the edge onto their backing sheet and still seem to burnish nicely.

I would appreciate and suggestions on glue or what I am doing wrong or should be doing. Thank you.

[Stetson912]

What kind of glue are you using?

Contact cement should dry and get tacky before you stick the pieces together. I use wildwood because I can get it easy, but barge, masters, etc.. the same rule applies. Apply the glue to both surfaces and allow to get tacky. It shouldn't be wet but still stick to your fingers a little. Then stick together. Sometimes 2 coats helps too. 

As for the white glue like leatherweld, you just apply and stick. Any squeeze out can be cleaned up quick with a damp cloth. 

If by chance some glue gets on your edge, you can try sanding the edge with high grit sandpaper to remove the glue. 

[AllanD]

Thank you for the reply. I tried weld wood because I had it and have used it for many other things for years. Always ended up with a small dark line between the leather layers. Tried Barges and have had the same issue. Maybe I'm not letting it dry enough because I get a little blob of squeeze out sometimes. Sanding hasn't worked because the glue impregnated leather is harder than the remaining leather. 

Thanks for your answers. I'm going to try a couple of things you mentioned and figure out a better way. I appreciate your help, thanks.

[Sceaden]

A few tips:

1. Go easy on the glue! There should be a very thin film of tacky contact cement on your pieces and then press the edges together and hammer down with a flat, smooth hammer to set. 
2. Leave a little extra leather in your patterns so you can trim the edge after gluing. This allows you to have a perfectly smooth, flush edge cut with a razor blade.
3. I personally don't sand much if any when I leave extra and cut it with a sharp knife. The edges should be already perfect. 

[Bolt Vanderhuge]

It sounds like you are applying too much glue. As well as not letting it dry to a tacky state like Stetson mentioned. When you apply the glue brush the glue onto the leather then keep brushing until the glue is flat and thin. If you can get it to a point were it looks like the leather is wet with nothing on top of it. Then let both sides dry to a tacky feel.

[trailrunner]

I always had some glue squeeze out no matter how careful I was too.  I started making my pattern 1/8 inch large all the way around, and cutting after its glued.  After trying this, I never went back.  Plus, gluing two pieces together never seems to get them perfectly flush, at least not for me.  So then you have to sand, and for me, no amount of sanding will ever be the same as a single cut with a ridiculously sharp blade.

 

Keep in mind if you do it this way, you'll have to add 1/8 inch or whatever you feel comfortable with, all the way around your pattern.  You'll also have to glue further in than you normally would, assuming you're only gluing along the edge, because some of the edge including the glue will be cut away.  The edge is so clean doing it this way.  In fact, if you do this, and use a very sharp blade, I would recommend NOT sanding, because in my experience, even the finest sandpaper will make the edge less smooth compared to the cut with the knife.  I glue, cut, then mark my stitch line and stitch it, then bevel, then burnish, then dye the edge.  In that order.

[Rockoboy]

I have had success in removing contact cement by rubbing with canvas. Usually whilst the glue is dry, but not fully set, so fairly soon after assembling.

Any PVA (water based) glue should clean up perfectly with a little water, and some light rubbing before the glue has dried.

Edited September 18, 2018 by Rockoboy

[Dwight]

Somewhere in the actions we do, . . . our final product is different.

When I use Weldwood contact cement, . . . I do not put it together until it is DRY, . . . and I mean DRY.  Touching it anywhere will not get a tacky or moist feel at all.

The only thing that will stick to it, . . . is another piece of something with contact cement on it.

I stick the two pieces together, . . . and somehow PRESS them together, . . . palms of my hands work, . . . a seam roller from wallpapering days also works well, . . . especially on the edges.

I then sand the edges of everything I make, . . . to make them even, . . . and when I burnish, I cannot hardly at all see see the line where the two pieces come together.

May God bless,

Dwight

[ComputerDoctor]

Superglue works for me, used lightly: Immediately held together for maybe a minute or two and then clamped for a couple of hours or overnight.

I have used every glue mentioned and had the same problems if over zealous with its application but we live and learn:)

I do like the idea of making the product larger and then trimming after gluing and sewing, just be careful with the trimming.

Sam:)

[AllanD]

Thank you all. A lot of good tips and ideas. I will give them a try and see what works well for me. Thanks for your time.  

[JD62]

As Dwight said very thin coat oof cement and let it DRY,15 or 20 min. is not too long .Longer if you use a heavy coat. Good luck!

Edited September 20, 2018 by JD62

[bgl500]

About the only thing that I can add to this is that I always thin my cement. Makes application much easier and really helps avoid adding too much cement to your pieces. Cheers.

[Chief Filipino]

I've had the same issue and depending upon what I am making I've actually started using the adhesive tapes and depend instead upon my saddle stitching to hold the piece together. The adhesive tape holds it together well enough to get it stitched. I mainly use it on smalls (wallets, key chain/fobs, etc) and use contact cement on things like my knife sheaths. Doesn't solve the glue squish problem on my big items. 

[Double Daddy]

Ditto what Dwight said...my experience is from back in my cabinet and countertop days where we used gallons of the Weldwood Red Can Original. Don't use too much...let it dry til its DRY...then be sure you get the pieces where you want them THE. FIRST. TIME...it's unforgiving in placement but I've found it pays off in strength...and availability in my area. YMMV.

[Dwight]

It is really simple, . . . if you are using glue, . . . toss it out and graduate to contact cement.

If you use so much contact cement that is squishes out, . . . you are using it wrong.

Leather adhesives are simple and work well, . . . if done right.

May God bless,

Dwight

[zuludog]

Have a look at these two videos by Ian Atkinson. They are a bit long, but are masterclasses in leatherwork; in fact anything by Ian is worth watching. He shows what kind of glue he uses; how it is applied and used; and subsequent burnishing

Designing and Making Leather Slip Cases    &    Making a Leather Rat Cutlery RC-3 Sheath   

[Bigfoote]

I use Ecoweld from Tandy, a latex contact cement, no squeeze out on that. Follow Dwight's instructions, let it dry completely. On smaller projects I use the two sided tape, works great and no waiting for things to dry.