Leather edge finishing from the professionals with an sander

[battlemunky]

See, there is no point in arguing it. It isn't an opinion. It is a fact that lockstitching is not as durable as saddle stitching. 

Again, you are presented with fact in the spirit of trying to educate you and you are completely unwilling to accept it for whatever reason. You wanted a competition to see who would win in durability. I gave you the competition by analysis and yet you still refuse to accept it.

I don't know what else can be done aside from setting aside multiple decades to monitor a lockstitched item vs a saddlestitched item of equivalent build and materials. If I had the time and inclination I'd do just this just so I could show you. I don't have that kind of time however so until you can prove otherwise with some analysis that is superior to the evidence I put forth above (and that an entire industry agrees on) I guess you can just continue to debate in spite of evidence to the contrary.

I really wish you'd stop asking for input if you aren't going to at least admit you know next to nothing and try a little harder. I only have a few years doing this but you are also being told the same thing I am telling you by hundreds of years of combined experience yet you do not yield. Being wrong and adhering to your point still is not charming or demonstrative of being resolute or something if that is what you are trying to go for.

[Johanna]

I don't like to edit posts and threads because i do believe we all have the right to our opinion, however we will not have with hate speech, threats or general trolling on the forum. There is some useful info in this thread, so I left it, but I did remove parts of it. If you see something offensive anywhere on the board, please hit the report button. Be part of the solution instead of the problem. Thank you for your cooperation!

[RusticLeatherShop]

All I have said till date stems from real life experiences in an pluricultural society outside the US.

I have checked close some worn Chelsea style boots and did only occasionally see an #69 to #92 thread be broke. Those are lock stitched with an machine. None of the #138 or #277 bonded nylon/polyester threads have broken on shoes who are about to fail their outer soles. The soles are indeed the first part of the shoe to fail (along with the cracked leather) and NOT the thread.

So for any smartphone case IMHO the thread will never be the issue nor is it relevant if its saddle stitched or lock stitched. Sewn by hand or machine I doubt is relevant. But some hand stitching people seem to rant others who are machine sewing (may envy play a role?).

But I learned from munkys picture what really a Saddle Stitch is, which I never knew before. Thanks Munky.

Saddle Stitching is then the tedious so behated handstitching we did in Church shops when I was a teenager. Taking up most of the time the so much cursed awl and needle difficult leather stitching. That's why I ordered the CB4500.

I guess I will be eternally thankfull I have bought the Cowboy 4500 in order to avoid the hand saddle stitching.

Overall the machine gives a better result than saddle stitching. If it ever unravels: restitch it again within 5 minutes.

Regards durability I stand by my point to be able to contest any day with my products with any other products on this very "mother earth".

Whats the point?!

Edited September 23, 2018 by RusticLeatherShop

[chrisash]

Reply to your Glue, Just by contact glue where you put a layer on both parts wait about 5-10 minutes until dry to touch and then place the two bits togethjer and lightly hammer the parts around the glued area

[RusticLeatherShop]

14 minutes ago, chrisash said:

Reply to your Glue, Just by contact glue where you put a layer on both parts wait about 5-10 minutes until dry to touch and then place the two bits togethjer and lightly hammer the parts around the glued area

Ok. So wood glue (it's white) or shoe sole glue (it's brown and some street boys use it to get high by sniffing it) will do it? Glue the leather parts first then sew them together. Then trim, sand and then glue the binder on. Then sew the binder. Is that correct?

[Northmount]

White wood glue in general is not contact cement and does not perform as well as contact cement during assembly.  Contact cement when properly applied and used, adheres upon contact.  Parts have to be placed accurately as you may not be able to separate the items again without damaging them.  There are lots of threads here about usage of various glues, also many resources on the web that you should review to better understand the types and usage.

Tom

[VabaX]

On 9/24/2018 at 6:34 AM, RusticLeatherShop said:

Ok. So wood glue (it's white) or shoe sole glue (it's brown and some street boys use it to get high by sniffing it) will do it? Glue the leather parts first then sew them together. Then trim, sand and then glue the binder on. Then sew the binder. Is that correct?

 

On 9/24/2018 at 7:56 AM, Northmount said:

White wood glue in general is not contact cement and does not perform as well as contact cement during assembly.  Contact cement when properly applied and used, adheres upon contact.  Parts have to be placed accurately as you may not be able to separate the items again without damaging them.  There are lots of threads here about usage of various glues, also many resources on the web that you should review to better understand the types and usage.

Tom

Eh, honestly, I've only ever used cheap wood glue purchased form the supermarket, and it's worked just fine. Once it's bonded, its strong enough that the glue bond doesnt break before the leather starts tearing apart. 

any glue that bonds strongly enough to have a higher tensile capacity than the actual leather is perfectly fine. The only differences from that point, as far as I see it (i'd welcome any other comments on the matter) is the properties regarding how it is applied and how it sands/burnishes (an area in which the wood glue is also fine; its sands right down once cured, no gooey gumminess, and has absolutely no impact on the burnish)

See for yourselves on my instagram, moreyatelier. my latest post is a billfold wallet with burnished edges, glued with $2 supermarket wood glue.

for what this guy needs (rusticleathershop) literally any glue would be better than what he does now

Edited September 24, 2018 by VabaX

[Northmount]

8 minutes ago, VabaX said:

Eh, honestly,

I never said that white wood glue (PVA) doesn't work.  If you re-read, I said it is not a contact cement.  Depends on how you want to glue things together.  If you have an item that is difficult to clamp until the glue is set, then contact cement is best suited as it grabs on contact.  I have used both, and still use both, but with different expectations and requirements.  I also use superglue on occasion and leather tape too.  Choice depends on what you are making and how it has to be assembled.  I made the assumption the shoe glue he is referring to is likely a type of contact cement, whether that is accurate or not.

Tom

[VabaX]

33 minutes ago, Northmount said:

I never said that white wood glue (PVA) doesn't work.  If you re-read, I said it is not a contact cement.  Depends on how you want to glue things together.  If you have an item that is difficult to clamp until the glue is set, then contact cement is best suited as it grabs on contact.  I have used both, and still use both, but with different expectations and requirements.  I also use superglue on occasion and leather tape too.  Choice depends on what you are making and how it has to be assembled.  I made the assumption the shoe glue he is referring to is likely a type of contact cement, whether that is accurate or not.

Tom

100% agreed.

Just with most aspects of leatherwork, there are as many ways of doing things as there are things to do. The main difference between those two glue types is, if you re-read, in how you must apply it, and seeing as Rustic here does not use glue at all currently, and stitches loose pieces together, I dont think that wood glue's lack of immediate bonding upon contact of workpieces is going to be a limiting factor in his (potential) use of same; It will still be lightyears better than the method he uses now.

If that's all he can get his hands on in Paraguay, then no big deal, imo

 

And Rustic, mate, if you absolutely must use a binder, theres no point in sewing twice. the glue will hold the pieces together while you trim and sand the edges of the leather, so you can then do one line of stitches to sew the binder and leather all together at the same time. I cant beleive im even 'recommending' anything involving the use of such webbing, but whatever, theres my 2c 

[Rockoboy]

On ‎25‎/‎09‎/‎2018 at 7:53 AM, VabaX said:

I cant beleive im even 'recommending' anything involving the use of such webbing

Not my choice of edge finish, but if that's what he wants, it's his project. @VabaX As for your assessment of some different glue products, I use PVA and contact cement, and sometimes double sided tape. (I've never used superglue on leather, but I have it there, with the accelerator if I need a fast set-off).I agree with you, that it depends on the job, the person doing the job, what products are available and probably a few other variables