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kyleatherworker

Cowboy 3200 foot impressions.....help needed

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Hello,

I just bought myself a very nice Cowboy 3200. Man, do I love this machine. Such a difference after working on a Tippman Boss. :)

However, I'm experiencing some issues in regards to the feed foot and presser foot impressions. The samples that came from Cowboy didn't really show this. But, I did swap the double foot for the left walking foot right away. The attached photo shows the impressions being made, specifically with the main walking foot inside the radius at the bottom of the trigger guard area. NOTE: this appears worse than it really is due to the glare. But, it's still worse than I'd like.

I've loosened the top pressure knob for the walking foot. Again, I can live with the impression it is giving. But, I'm uncertain what do on the main walking foot. 

The instructions state about how to raise or lower the main walking foot. My question....will this correct this? If so, what is the consequences of this when going to lighter material? 

The holster is Herman Oak 7-8oz. 2 pcs. I want to also to sew 3 layers of 3-4oz. (so, about 1/2).

BTW, I sewed some pocket knife sheaths from two layers of 5-6oz. and didn't really notice this as much.

 

Thanks for any and all help!

holster.jpg

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top of the machine, left hand side, theres a large black screw that adjusts the foot pressure.  If you are pre-glueing the holster together, then you can unscrew that large screw and reduce the foot pressure QUITE a bit.     NOTE:  when you take the double toe off, and replace it with the single toe, the pressure on the single toe is DOUBLED to resist the spring.  

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Thanks for the reply. 

I was wondering if the force was increased on the single toe. Any thoughts on whether raising the foot higher will also reduce the amount of force? Of course, will this also lesson the pressure to the point of slippage?

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Back off the foot pressure screw on top until the leather just begins to lift with the ascending needle, then add some pressure to keep the leather down. If that doesn't fix the problem, let the leather fully dry before you sew it.

You can also lower the lift of the feet via the crank arm protruding out the back of the machine and fitting to a curved slot on the lift mechanism. One direction lowers the lift and the other increases it.

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Thanks Wiz.

You know, the weather has changed here with some colder temps and rain. And, although I did let the finish dry for 16 hours, it might have needed a tad bit longer. This may be reason the samples pieces that came with the machine didn't show as much. I just didn't think about this. Time to do a better test now. Thanks!

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On 10/15/2018 at 7:54 PM, kyleatherworker said:

Thanks Wiz.

You know, the weather has changed here with some colder temps and rain. And, although I did let the finish dry for 16 hours, it might have needed a tad bit longer. This may be reason the samples pieces that came with the machine didn't show as much. I just didn't think about this. Time to do a better test now. Thanks!

Build a "dry box"  Just a basic wood box with a 100w lightbulb in it.  The bulb will quickly heat the box to a very warm, dry temp, and greatly increase your drying speed.  

 

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Hi Alexander,

Thanks for the suggestion. I may need to do this.

 

I've done more testing on the 3200 with lighter weights leather (2-5/6oz. & 2-3/4oz.) both were in regular dry form from the supplier. All harness leather and natural Herman Oak. In both cases, the walking and presser foot are still leaving more than desired impressions. I've adjusted the presser foot tension until the adjustment knob jumped out. Luckily, I was anticipating this. So, I think I may try a small adjustment on the foot height linkage arm. But, will this move both the walking foot and the presser up or down with the single adjustment?

 

Craig

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Where's the picture of the marks on dry leather?  If your machine is making the marks in your picture on dry leather, I would assume your machine has the WRONG SPRING.

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Here's a few pics showing two layers of 7-8oz from belt blanks. And, two layers of 3-4oz. Both leathers are dry and untouched. Don't mind the thread/needle size on the 7-8oz. I didn't bother changing it from working on wallets.

Also, check out the backside. It's pushing hard enough to leave a reverse impressing from the cylinder arm plate

You can see the walking foot impressions are deeper than the presser foot. The presser foot adjustment is as loose as it will go. So, will adjusting the foot arm on the back of the machine move the entire foot assemble up, including the presser foot?

IMG_0291.jpg

IMG_0292.jpg

IMG_0290.jpg

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Make a mark on anything you want to move so you know where you started maybe a sharpie or scratch, saves hours of geting lost and screwing up everything rather than just one thing

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9 hours ago, kyleatherworker said:

Here's a few pics showing two layers of 7-8oz from belt blanks. And, two layers of 3-4oz. Both leathers are dry and untouched. Don't mind the thread/needle size on the 7-8oz. I didn't bother changing it from working on wallets.

Also, check out the backside. It's pushing hard enough to leave a reverse impressing from the cylinder arm plate

You can see the walking foot impressions are deeper than the presser foot. The presser foot adjustment is as loose as it will go. So, will adjusting the foot arm on the back of the machine move the entire foot assemble up, including the presser foot?

IMG_0291.jpg

IMG_0292.jpg

IMG_0290.jpg

No,it won't because you'll still have the same amount of pressure.Your marking with this type of leather  would be less with a lighter pressure foot spring.I also know a lot of people just rub the marks out w/a spoon or bone.

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Roughly I’m guessing a lighter spring is less than $10?  

 

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