Modern high performance threads

[medion]

Hi all,

Does anyone have any input on what could be considered the strongest modern machine sewable thread for leather? I currently use a bonded nylon #69 thread which is fine, but I do wonder what the strongest machine sewable thread may be, I'm thinking in terms of Kevlar and Dyneema (or others?) - does anyone have experience with high tech threads? I understand there comes a point where the thread is significantly stronger than the leather, however I'm wanting to avoid that part of the discussion.

-p

[brmax]

Im not aware of the strength ratings of kevlar or any other in that “ super thread “.

I can say they have made most to the standard of others strength. This being regulated on standard size threads. 

Although though better durubility has came from advances in the industry. Especially towards heat and liquid environents. 

Its always good to hear what you find out, so appreciate hearing what is out there. It is important to hear these strengths based around other standards to start. Thanks

 

Good day

Floyd

[SARK9]

The Thread Exchange has info on most of this stuff-

 

https://www.thethreadexchange.com/downloads/the-thread-exchange_Kevlar_guide.pdf

https://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=TTE&Category_Code=ptfe-fiberglass-Thread-Information

Some of my research for my own applications indicates that Kevlar materials are not particularly suitable for prolonged UV exposure, and there are cases where its own relative strength is reported to be a disadvantage, as it is so much more durable than the materials it interfaces with that it can "saw" its way thru joined items in certain conditions of load stress and movement. Your designs need to take several factors into account when you wish to take full advantage of the remarkable strength of these aramid materials.

 

-DC

 

[gottaknow]

Bonded nylon is specified for the vast majority of tactical items for the DOD. A company I used to work for had a contract for suede welding jackets. Chrome tanned leather with Kevlar thread. The Kevlar thread isn’t bonded and it’s like sewing with dental floss. Your hooks have to be sharp and set very precise or it will fray while sewing. A buddy of mine that has been making hot air balloons since the 70’s uses UV rated bonded polyester which is about the nicest thread I’ve ever used. Strong like bonded nylon, but with a much softer hand. Sews like a dream. 

Regards, Eric 

[kgg]

I have to agree with Eric on the polyester thread. It is much nicer to use, not as stiff, comes off the spool more evenly as well as nicer bobbin winding / unwinding particularly as it nears the end. I use thread sizes #69, #92 and occasionally #138 depending on the dog related item. I have found that Coats bonded polyester #69 is standing up better to bleach then the #69 bonded nylon does. Example would be our incontinence pads 27" x 50" ( takes two to cover bottom of our 4' x 4'-6" HDPE whelping box). Constructed with waterproof ripstop, muslin, absorbent middle and ripstop binding on edges were washed / dried once a day in a heavy bleach concentration for 8 weeks straight. The result was no fraying or thread failures on any of the 24 incontinence pads unlike nylon thread the only problem was some colour fading of the ripstop.

kgg

[Matt S]

@medion, is there any particular reason that you're using v69 thread? Unless you have a very particular reason for using exotic thread you will probably find that using a thicker nylon, polyester or linen thread will give you more strength than you need. V69, for instance, is something I only use on light duty items like pocket notebooks and wallet internals.

If you want the "strongest" machine sewable thread I'd say it depends on what you mean by strongest. If it's breaking strain it may well be the TKT3 (about v600) bonded nylon I've recently come across. It's about 1mm diameter.

 

[SheltathaLore]

Interesting - the stiffness/springiness of bonded nylon has frustrated me a lot when I attempt to sew with it on some machines, so if bonded polyester is a solid alternative, I might have to stock up on some.

The bonus is that Serafil has tons of colors, plus a color card that I intend to squirrel away in my swatchbook stash.

[SARK9]

4 hours ago, gottaknow said:

 [...] The Kevlar thread isn’t bonded and it’s like sewing with dental floss.

 

Like he said. The lack of bonding on most Kevlar threads is a bit of a hassle when threading your needle.... First, its often very difficult to cut cleanly and tends to *puff out* with nearly invisible straggler filaments when the cut end is even slightly touched. Miss the eye on your first stab and you usually have to re-trim the frayed end. Also, you won't be melting or burning the ends of your thread tails. Color selection is pretty skimpy, and the colorfastness is a bit of a gamble with different brands. Mostly you need to find something to like about its natural yellowish color. I have used a little on nearly every machine I have at one time or another, from T-45 to T-210, and other than the hassle threading the needles, its never seemed to be that fussy to sew with any of my hooks set normally, but then, I don't really sew production quantities, just specific sporadic needs. You probably don't want to wrap a big birds nest all around and under your hook....

-DC  

[JazzBass]

I remember seeing a demonstration somewhere, that showed how strong Kevlar is in tension- it will hold an amazing amount of weight, BUT - tie a simple overhand knot, and it breaks fairly easily. I have no idea how it would function with either a lock stitch (machine) or saddle stitch. Seems that there could be problems. Has anyone else seen that demo? I can't seem to find it, or I would have linked it.

Even soft body armor has a limited service life, as the Kevlar threads seem to suffer from abrasion against each other over time, and ends up fraying.

Not sure that info helps - but I just thought I'd throw it in the mix as something to consider.

[medion]

13 hours ago, Matt S said:

Quote

@medion, is there any particular reason that you're using v69 thread? Unless you have a very particular reason for using exotic thread you will probably find that using a thicker nylon, polyester or linen thread will give you more strength than you need. V69, for instance, is something I only use on light duty items like pocket notebooks and wallet internals

The honest truth, is that I like working with unusual and high performance materials... There is no reason other than that

I do currently use v69 right throughout my wallets though, it has held up well so far - what are you using for your main wallet stitch line if only using v69 for wallet internals?

 

The honest truth, is that I like working with unusual and high performance materials... There is no reason other than that

I do currently use v69 right throughout my wallets though, it has held up well so far - what are you using for your main wallet stitch line if only using v69 for wallet internals?