Belts - Two Rivets or One?

[superpacker]

Obviously on a 1" belt or narrower, a single rivet or screw will suffice, but on wider belts 1.25 - 1.5" it seems to me that you'd want to use two rivets/screws, and the first really well-made belt I ever got (and the belt that got me into leathercraft) has 2. But I've seen a lot this wide only use 1. Any method or madness behind these two options? I'd be curious to hear what people say. 

[fredk]

On all belts I make, if I use rivets I use at least 4 and often 6. Two up by the buckle, and two each side of the strap keeper. If the buckle has a built in keeper then only 4 rivets, two by the buckle and two at the end of the strip of leather folded over

[superpacker]

Good clarification. I was thinking about center bar Buckles that don’t need a keeper

For those I’ve seen one used. But I use two. On heel bars I’ve seen 2 used.

[nrk]

don't you sew the leather?

[superpacker]

No. I know sew is the strongest, but I like to give the option to switch out Buckles so I use screws 

[Rockoboy]

On ‎14‎/‎01‎/‎2019 at 8:32 AM, superpacker said:

sew is the strongest

Sewing can be stronger or it can be a wear point. Stitching across a belt is like the perforations between postage stamps, just waiting to be torn apart. Personally, I like Chicago screws so the buckle can be changed or re-used when the belt needs to be renovated.

Edited January 18, 2019 by Rockoboy

[Handstitched]

G'Day, 

I use x 2 press studs , line 24's , so the customer has the option of changing the buckle  . But  some of the heavier belts, tool belts etc.  are either sewn or riveted . 

HS 

[bikermutt07]

I have been wearing a belt for over a year now that has 4 line 20 snaps. Never had the first problem.

[JLSleather]

I use 3 screws on 1 1/2" wide belts.  Couple reasons, so I will continue.  But that comment about sewing "across" things has been going on since .. what.. Stohlman wrote that 50 years ago?  60 years?  At any rate, it's correct.  This is why I break up lines when and where possible.

This is the reason the stitching stops at the red arrows, does NOT continue all the way up, avoiding a break line.   Plus, doesn't hurt that it looks good.

And also why the stitching joins at or near right angles at the dark blue arrows... no stress point concentration there either.

The strength of 3 screw is not required for a belt.  I've made a LOT of belts with 2 or sometimes 3 Line 16 "segma" snaps.  My only issue with those is the limitation on how thick the leather they will go through (about 9 oz is top). Line 24 snaps are strong enough, but I don't like the bulk.

But the point of 3.. screws can come loose, back out if not checked.  Guy carrying a gun and / or equipment should check, but that doesn't mean they will.  So , 3 is a layer of security.  The idea of a screw backing out can happen - I've seen it happen.  But the odds that two come out at the same time is far less likely, especially when they are in line.  And 3? Highly unlikely.  

I use leather belt loop "keepers", which are retained between the screws.  I recommend using a drop of thread locker on each one. But I don't add it, since you may need to move the leather keeper loop over depending on your belt loops on your pants.  Or some might remove it altogether.  BTW, same way on rifle slings.  I don't loc-tite 'em, because installing it would break the seal.  But I do recommend that you loc-tite 'em once you have it (loc-tite is a brand of thread locker).

Edited January 18, 2019 by JLSleather

[bermudahwin]

Hard to describe how, but for bridle and harness we were taught as in the picture, capturing the keeper, but not stitching through it. and then throwing a stitch over the edge.

Will try to remember to photo the next one I do.

It avoids postage stamping.

H