Sewing Machine Recommendation for Small Leather Goods?

[Orangeleather]

Excuse for jumping on this thread as I doubt Wiz woukd appreciate a new thread for my question.

I'm currently have a Brother innovis 55 domestic which I've used for lightweight occasional pieces.

However, I'm looking at a Brother FS210 as an alternative, woukd this still be capable rather than using my patcher.

Edited January 27, 2019 by Orangeleather
Edit

[SilverForgeStudio]

On 1/21/2019 at 10:46 PM, YSRASupply said:

Thanks for the replies!  I did forget to mention thread size... I'm unfamiliar with thread sizing for sewing machines but right now I typically use thinner thread (around 0.45mm similar to Lin Cable 632) and could see myself maybe going up to 0.6mm thread on certain projects... that being said, I'd want a machine that will give me some versatility with thread sizing.

Thanks again!

I am in the same research and recon position you are right now for my leather working and have a series of items I am looking at/working on in various weights. I have had the luxury of demo-work on several Adler and Consew models. All have trade offs.  Its not buying... its feeding, caring and servicing the thing you need to bring into the picture as well. 

One thing to consider that has not been put out there for you is this- its not what you are currently sewing but what is your next level of products to consider. For production runs and "stable" product lines you may consider a flat bed all you will ever need- These machines are work-horses and can have good resale value if maintained.

If you want to try larger mil-spec threads and kevlar items that may need a heavier needle consider the next level of machine you will need.

As well consider parts/service/maintenance and warranty- you buy a "new" machine- is your warranty service center 75 miles away? Where is your closest spare parts guy? I am lucky to have both an Adler and Consew certified tech business near me (He also does older Pfaff as well- awesome dude). My local Juki service center is a quilting place that has NO CLUE about leather- but can take in warranty work no issue. 

Just my two cents here... Consider a cylinder-arm with a bed-attachment. Walking foot or compound walking foot machine and just go from there- These machines can go UP in thickness from where you are and although they can be fussy/finicky with the thinner items- once dialed in can do good work. Learn your machine inside and out. Get the SERVO upgrades- the control is vastly better for folks like me (fumble fingers who need the slowness and precision).

1. TRY before you buy- take several thicknesses or projects and GO SEW with any machine you are thinking about
2. look at the top and BOTTOM stitch lines when you sew
3. Dont look at price of the machine- look at Value to you, the resale and functionality (Is it obsolete? Will it grow with your skill level or will you OUT-grow it)
4. Compare- if someone says a price is only for right now- then walk away- they are trying to move something fast (Ask why?)
5. Can a heavy domestic like a Singer 4411 do your work? May be an option (I use it for 2-3 oz liners)

For that matter you could buy one of the "Hand-crank Shoe-Patchers" relatively cheap and learn on it while speeding up production-  There are multiple videos on Youtube regarding these from setting up to Q/A to troubleshooting- Here is one to consider: 

 

Let us know what you decide and please have a great day!

[Wizcrafts]

16 hours ago, Orangeleather said:

Excuse for jumping on this thread as I doubt Wiz woukd appreciate a new thread for my question.

I'm currently have a Brother innovis 55 domestic which I've used for lightweight occasional pieces.

However, I'm looking at a Brother FS210 as an alternative, woukd this still be capable rather than using my patcher.

We discuss industrial leather sewing machines here. Your question might get a better response on a forum that deals with plastic body domestic machines. I'm sure somebody has tried sewing leather on such a machine and can advise you of how that went for them. My own experience with plastic body electronic domestic machines sewing 5 or 6 ounces of leather was parts flying across the room.

Now, if you were asking me about an old iron body Singer model 27 or 127, that's another story.

[koreric75]

8 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

We discuss industrial leather sewing machines here. Your question might get a better response on a forum that deals with plastic body domestic machines. I'm sure somebody has tried sewing leather on such a machine and can advise you of how that went for them. My own experience with plastic body electronic domestic machines sewing 5 or 6 ounces of leather was parts flying across the room.

Now, if you were asking me about an old iron body Singer model 27 or 127, that's another story.

Hey wiz, i have an old iron body or two, my 127 was completely serviced, but it feels like there is a sticky spot and makes the shuttle drive feel "jerky", i haven't put a motor on it yet and was told that it was normal after getting some new parts to let it "run in" to allow the machine to wear the newer parts and it should be back to smooth operation.  I have a couple of tables i could  put this in, but it's a short bed and doesn't fit so i'm going to need to alter or make an adapter to drop it in first...

[Wizcrafts]

6 hours ago, koreric75 said:

Hey wiz, i have an old iron body or two, my 127 was completely serviced, but it feels like there is a sticky spot and makes the shuttle drive feel "jerky", i haven't put a motor on it yet and was told that it was normal after getting some new parts to let it "run in" to allow the machine to wear the newer parts and it should be back to smooth operation.  I have a couple of tables i could  put this in, but it's a short bed and doesn't fit so i'm going to need to alter or make an adapter to drop it in first...

Really? I serviced a few model 27, 28, 127 and 128 machines and they never had that problem afterwards. The biggest problem I encountered was securing the bobbin thread to wind a bobbin!

The last Singer model 127 I refurbished and sold could sew with #92 bonded nylon thread into a 10-12 ounce bridle leather strap. None, and I mean NONE of the other old iron body Singer domestics could even come close to that. That includes classes 15 and 66.

[kgg]

Which parts were replaced? I rebuilt a couple of 127 and 128 over the years and like Wiz when the machines were done they worked like the day they came off the assembly line. Something seems amiss.

kgg

[koreric75]

5 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

Really? I serviced a few model 27, 28, 127 and 128 machines and they never had that problem afterwards. The biggest problem I encountered was securing the bobbin thread to wind a bobbin!

The last Singer model 127 I refurbished and sold could sew with #92 bonded nylon thread into a 10-12 ounce bridle leather strap. None, and I mean NONE of the other old iron body Singer domestics could even come close to that. That includes classes 15 and 66.

that is what i was wondering, i mispoke on this one, no parts were replaced, just a cleaning and service...it spun freely enough before hand, but now not as well.

 

4 hours ago, kgg said:

Which parts were replaced? I rebuilt a couple of 127 and 128 over the years and like Wiz when the machines were done they worked like the day they came off the assembly line. Something seems amiss.

kgg

i was wrong, the 78-1 got a replacement shuttle carrier, only to find out the shaft is bent as well...the 127 was just brought in as a basket case and reassembled.

[Orangeleather]

20 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

We discuss industrial leather sewing machines here. Your question might get a better response on a forum that deals with plastic body domestic machines. I'm sure somebody has tried sewing leather on such a machine and can advise you of how that went for them. My own experience with plastic body electronic domestic machines sewing 5 or 6 ounces of leather was parts flying across the room.

Now, if you were asking me about an old iron body Singer model 27 or 127, that's another story.

Thanks for replying Wiz, I guess my research will continue minus pieces flying across the room.

[YSRASupply]

Coming back to this thread as I'm narrowing in on a few options... I think I am going to go with a flat bed machine since all the work I do now are wallets and smaller goods.  It'd be nice to have a Cobra class 4 but I'm not certain I'd ever utilize that machine fully...  I also read some other thread where a guy wishes he had gotten a smaller machine cause the class 4 was tearing up his thinner leathers.

In any case, below are my options I'm considering both new and used...

If I buy new I am currently looking in to a few options:

• Highlead 318
• Cobra Class 18 or 20
• Consew 206rb-5
• Juki 1541s

If I buy used then I currently have these two on offer to me from a guy locally who deals industrial machines:

• Singer 331K105 for $395

• Tacsew T111-155 (Equipped with 110 volt servo motors) for $550

I've tried doing some research on both of these here and on the net... looks like the Tacsew might be better for leatherwork (might need to get a speed reducer?)...  Anyway, I could save a ton of $$$ right now if I go with one of the used ones but are either of these machines worth it?  The only sewing machine I've ever used is a brother home use machine so this will my first "real" sewing machine.  While it would be nice to save the money now I also don't want to be kicking myself a few months from now wishing I had just ponied up the cash to get the right machine that I can grow in to.

Anyway, hoping some of you experts here can chime in to give your opinions now that I've narrowed my choices down!

Edited February 8, 2019 by YSRASupply

[catskin]

My suggestion would be to take leather as many ply as you will need to sew.  Then add at least one more and test the machine. The reason for more is to be quite sure you will not be using it at the limit of what it can do.  Even try to see how much more it can do if pushing the limit.  For example if it will handle 2 more ply then you think you will be sewing that's good.  I do not know these machines, what I advise would apply to any machine.