Patcher machines

[klutes]

I know this has probably an old question but I would like to hear from people who are currently using the patcher machines. My question is are any of you using them to sew flat seams on 5-6 oz each piece. Particularly on tote leather bags. I like the concept of turning the head as to be able to sew the seam running the bag up the arm length. Hope that make sense. Are any of you doing this and how well does it work. Also what thread size are you using? Looking forward to hearing all replies. Thanks Ken

[Wizcrafts]

I have sewn with patchers from Singer and Adler for decades. I currently own a Singer 29k71 and an Adler 30-7. I keep #69 bonded nylon thread in the Singer, because it has a super tiny bobbin. The Adler has a larger bobbin and stronger take-up parts so I use #92 and #138 thread in it, as the job demands.

I only use these machines when a flat bed walking foot machine can't do the job. Flat beds are best for flat work seams. The patchers are used to sew patches over pockets, or onto sleeves, or to sew small round things (think koozies), or long circular items (think cue stick or rifle bag), or inside purses and other bags. They are specialized machines because of their universal top feed. It is difficult to maintain a straight stitch line on a patcher since there is no easy way to install an edge guide. Also, the teeth will leave serious marks in veg-tan leather.

You can definitely sew straps and flaps and zippers onto tote bags with a patcher. Just staple, pin, or tape the straps in place before you sew. But, get a flat bed walking foot machine, with an edge guide, for the basic flat seam and piping construction. Many have oversize bobbins that hold lots of thread, up to #138.

[ljk]

I glue a pc. of  2mm teflon to the toe of my shoe patcher.  If you scuff it with sandpaper

on the back side and clean the toe with acetone or lacquer thinner you can glue

it down with good results.  I've used both contact cement and epoxy.  You only need

about a inch or so forward of the pivot.   Round off the teflon so it won't grab on the edge.

If anybody has a source for gluable teflon pls. let me know.

 

You can do a lot with a shoe patcher using  this slight modification. Leather drags.

[Constabulary]

Or try shrink hose on the presser foot.

Regarding Teflon - you can buy Teflon sheets with an adhesive side - not sure if this helps you.

https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/?s=teflon

(scroll down a bit - they have different thicknesses)

Edited January 25, 2019 by Constabulary

[klutes]

Thanks guys. Wiz I can’t sew the flat seams that I am talking about on a flatbed or cyl arm. You may get one of them but not the second one.  At least I can’t. That’s why the interest in the patcher.

Edited January 26, 2019 by klutes

[Wizcrafts]

58 minutes ago, klutes said:

Thanks guys. Wiz I can’t sew the flat seams that I am talking about on a flatbed or cyl arm. You may get one of them but not the second one.  At least I can’t. That’s why the interest in the patcher.

Then seek out an Adler 30-7 or 30-70, or a Singer 29k72, or 29k172 on a power stand. These are all long arm, large bobbin patchers. The Adlers can both clear and sew up to 3/8, while the Singer maxes out at 5/16 inch. A motorized machine lets you keep one hand on the work and the other on the butterfly knobs on the direction control ring. I had a Singer 29k172 I'd sell ya but it is gone now.

[klutes]

Ok thanks 

[Evo160K]

Klutes, in case you're not aware, removable work plates are available for many patchers.   My Claes has a wooden one.  I've not thought about it, but I suspect a multi directional/"rotating" edge guide could be dreamed up for it if necessary.

 

 

[Willbury]

I've had quite of a number of Singer long arm large bobbin (it's not that big) machines and I still keep one in my shop.  I originally had hoped to be using them to sew inside awkward spots in bags, which sounds like what you want to do.  I've ultimately decided that it's not really a viable machine to do this kind of work, except perhaps to sew smaller pieces on (patches).  It is extremely difficult to get the stitching as perfect as I'd like, as mentioned by others it's hard to get a consistently straight line.  Can you do it with extreme care? Yes it's possible but it's hard and very easy to make a mistake.   They certainly are a worthwhile machine to have, that rotating head is very useful at times,  but if your goal is to use it as a primary machine to sew entire bags you may be disappointed... my two cents.

Oh and I pretty much always use 135 thread in mine.

 

Edited January 28, 2019 by Willbury

[klutes]

Thanks for the replys. It wouldn’t be my primary machine for sure. Has anyone tried the hand crank models . not sure what brand they are . Overseas models.

[Willbury]

7 minutes ago, klutes said:

Thanks for the replys. It wouldn’t be my primary machine for sure. Has anyone tried the hand crank models . not sure what brand they are . Overseas models.

All of singers have a hand crank option.  I use the crank quite frequently.  Some machines likely have the crank wheel taken off, but’s it’s an option to mount on the back pulley or the side of the machine (where I have mine)

[Evo160K]

On Monday, January 28, 2019 at 6:08 PM, klutes said:

 Has anyone tried the hand crank models . not sure what brand they are . Overseas models.

In spite of a caution from me based on comments I had read on LW, a friend bought one of the hand crank overseas models, cost about $135.  At first he was disappointed because the casting and parts were so rough, and it didn't sew well.  After smoothing and adjusting most everything on the machine, he's extremely pleased with it.  The fellow has a machine shop, so refining the machine wasn't difficult for him.

[Matt S]

3 hours ago, Evo160K said:

In spite of a caution from me based on comments I had read on LW, a friend bought one of the hand crank overseas models, cost about $135.  At first he was disappointed because the casting and parts were so rough, and it didn't sew well.  After smoothing and adjusting most everything on the machine, he's extremely pleased with it.  The fellow has a machine shop, so refining the machine wasn't difficult for him.

 

On 1/29/2019 at 12:08 AM, klutes said:

Thanks for the replys. It wouldn’t be my primary machine for sure. Has anyone tried the hand crank models . not sure what brand they are . Overseas models.

I bought one of these Huandong(?) machines, partly out of curiosity and partly out of a desire to be able to sew "up the arm", plus occasional repairs. Mine arrived rough as a badger's bum -- burrs, grinding residue and greasy schmoo everywhere. Took a couple hours to sort out. Bobbins are tiny and the tolerances are so loose that the 4 supplied with the machine are visibly different (not all actually fit in the bobbin case). Replacement bobbins are dificult to find. One bobbin was wrapped around with swarf. Needed timing adjustments right out the box but after I set that it's not missed a stitch. Takes domestic sewing machine needles (15 class) which are readily available. Limited to TKT40/v69 thread maximum. No presser foot height adjustment.

I never was happy with the look of the stitches so it's hardly been off the shelf from one season to the next.

As it happens I lucked into a real "up the arm" sewing machine so I've used it for exactly 4 patching jobs, none of which has turned out neatly (probably due to my lack of practice). This is what it's good at, but the simple stitch length adjustment makes it tricky to match existing stitch holes if you're trying to do that. People apparently like them for nasty jobs like repairing horse blankets and I think it'd be ideal for that -- "utility" jobs that need to be done quickly, don't need chunky thread and where appearance is not very important. Use it, clean it out as much as you can be bothered, then buy a new one when it wears out.

 

Edited February 2, 2019 by Matt S

[Gusta1]

Hello, I tell you that I am going to buy a patch machine and I needed your help!

I live in Argentina and I have different options, the Tank or Typical 2971 machines that cost US $ 1,000.

And then I have the other option that is Taking 2971 brand but it costs $ 2000.

The difference is that they tell me that one machine is armed in China and the other in Taiwan. In theory, Taiwan's is of superior quality.

Of exterior appearance the machines are exactly the same, that's why I'm confused.

[shoepatcher]

Better steel and tolerances on the Taiwan machine.  They are better made but double the price????  

glenn

[Gusta1]

I tell them that today I bought a brand new patch machine Typical, in the end the Taking mark of 2000 dollars was the same.

On Friday they deliver it to me! I'll tell you later how it works or ask them for help if I have a problem!

Apologies for my English!