Thread stuck to bobbin when pull out the work

[Orrrmygod]

Hi Guys, I’m very new to sewing machine and now learn how to use it. I came across one problem that I could not figured out why.

When I finished stitching and want to pull out the leathers, the thread at the bottom always stuck. So I need to cut the top first then move the wheel to be able to pull the bottom thread out (and it tangles)

Please see attached. It’s it normal that the thread always go over bobbin like that?  And I just realized now that if the pole that pull the thread (at the top) go up (and bottom thread goes pass bobbin) I can pull out the bottom thread from bobbin without any tangled. 

What do you think? Please help.

thanks

 

 

 

 

[Orrrmygod]

[Wizcrafts]

Rotate the hand wheel a little more to clear the thread from the shuttle. Also, it looks like the thread is getting caught on the tab on the bobbin case. Adjust your check spring to leave more slack in the top thread. It should go around the bobbin case and shuttle without binding, snapping or getting hung up.

Your last photo doesn't show how you have threaded around your check spring assembly.

[Orrrmygod]

Hi Wizcrafts, did you mean this?

Im wonder what is that for too (the middle spring). Should I tight it?

Edited March 12, 2019 by Orrrmygod

[Orrrmygod]

14 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

Rotate the hand wheel a little more to clear the thread from the shuttle. Also, it looks like the thread is getting caught on the tab on the bobbin case. Adjust your check spring to leave more slack in the top thread. It should go around the bobbin case and shuttle without binding, snapping or getting hung up.

Your last photo doesn't show how you have threaded around your check spring assembly.

Hi Wizcrafts, Adjust check spring to leave more slack in the top thread - should I make the spring looser or tighter? Thanks

[Wizcrafts]

Use the bottom stop bracket to set the throw of the spring. The thread should remain taut until the needle has penetrated the material. The spring tension should be just enough to hold the thread as the take-up lever starts its downward stroke. The spring tension must not override the main tension disks.

[Orrrmygod]

3 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

Use the bottom stop bracket to set the throw of the spring. The thread should remain taut until the needle has penetrated the material. The spring tension should be just enough to hold the thread as the take-up lever starts its downward stroke. The spring tension must not override the main tension disks.

Is it mean I should loose the spring tension a bit? And if I loose it too much then what’s gonna happen? Thanks

Edited March 12, 2019 by Orrrmygod

[katit]

Btw, I don't think you need to have thread over this pin..

 

[dikman]

I was wondering the same thing, katit.

[Orrrmygod]

46 minutes ago, katit said:

Btw, I don't think you need to have thread over this pin..

 

Thanks Katie, if I take the thread out from that pin, the top tension will be less right? 

[Orrrmygod]

Is it normal that the thread will go over bobbin like in the first photo? When I did hand crank, it has some forcing sound a bit. 

Thanks

[Ole South]

Raising the presser foot should release the upper tension disks... rotating the hand wheel should allow the upper thread to clear the bobbin mechanism (try rocking the hand wheel backwards and forwards as you pull the material free).  If that doesn't free both threads then double check the adjustments mentioned.  Multiple threads(cut) coming out of the feed dog in your picture, indicates upper thread is still captured by bobbin assembly i.e. shouldn't be more than one thread there (bobbin thread).  I will hook the upper thread with an index finger where the thread rises above the tension disks and lash spring and pull some slack after lifting presser foot if top tension is tight so not to stress the workpiece.

That's the correct threading shown tho most don't use it.  And yes... it will increase upper tension by design.  The Singer 111 has that pin on the opposite side of the mechanism and is supposed to be threaded accordingly.  The machines will still work if you don't.  But it does appear you may have missed a guide out of frame prior to the tension assembly. There is vertical wear indications on the first chrome guide feeding the tension disks and the thread is coming in at a different angle... your thread appears to be riding the casting even tho there is no scuffing of the paint.  This doesn't affect or cause your problem but...

 

Edited March 16, 2019 by Ole South

[dikman]

I'm curious when you say it's the correct threading. I've checked my manuals for Singer 111 and 211 series, my Seiko and Pfaff 335 (both old and new castings) and none of them show the thread going around that pin.

[jimi]

These pictures are to show the way the machine is correctly threaded according to the pfaff manual. The thread does not go around the pin in the illustration.

 

I would go for what wiz suggested. 

Edited March 16, 2019 by jimi

[mikesc]

That's the correct threading shown tho most don't use it. And yes... it will increase upper tension by design. The Singer 111 has that pin on the opposite side of the mechanism and is supposed to be threaded accordingly. The machines will still work if you don't.

That pin is not on there to pass the thread around, that pin is only there to stop the tension discs spinning. Threading around that pin is totally incorrect and was never "by design" on any machine which has a pressure disc and take up spring assembly mounted on on the side of the machine..such as Singer 111 , 211, Pfaff 335, Juki ( whatever ) etc..( there is a very long list of machines, waaay too long to list here, where threading around that pin is wrong and was never intended to be done ) ..There ought to be a piece of "code" that looks for comments that say to thread around that pin, and then block the incorrect information, like the way bad language filters work..
then maybe the myth would die..

Btw ..just because a certain machine dealer's video shows it that way does n't make it correct either..

Rant off :)

Edited March 16, 2019 by mikesc

[jimi]

43 minutes ago, mikesc said:

That pin is not on there to pass the thread around

That is why i put up the pictures 

[mikesc]

I know :)
But I type very slowly..so hadn't seen that you'd put up the 335 manual pics..
OT/ How many manuals in total for all the machines do you have ? Must be entire walls of shelves ( digital or real life ) of them in your place.. :)

[dikman]

And going around that pin would certainly cause an increase in thread tension!!

[mikesc]

And going around that pin would certainly cause an increase in thread tension!!

And doing so can damage various parts of the machine, in either the short or long term..will cause increased wear and premature failure of parts that are "further along the line" than the pin..and can damage the hook ( by placing it under strain due to way over tolerance top tension being applied via going around that pin ), the timing wil not like it, the stitches ( length and formation )will not be as controllable..
You'll also hear that "snap" that wiz mentions a lot when the take up spring is giving a problem because it is not adjusted correctly, but it won't be because of the take up spring..it will be because of the pin..

Going around that pin is like pulling the "D Ring" on a parachute with the hand on the same side that the "D Ring" is on..

If you do that, you cannot pull smoothly across your body..sometimes it will work OK..sometimes it won't..it only needs one "won't" ..

Some things there is indeed a right way and a wrong way..the right way to thread a machine is "do not go around that pin"..that is not what it is for..

[jimi]

 

11 hours ago, mikesc said:

Must be entire walls of shelves ( digital or real life ) of them in your place..

[Ole South]

I stand corrected.  

[shoepatcher]

The thread does NOT and I repeat NOT go over the pin.  The function of the pin is to locate and hold the tensions discs in place. Some of my operators use to put the needle thread over the pin and it disrupted the top tension let alone the thread wearing into the pin.  That is a no no.  By the way, nice looking Pfaff 345!

glenn