Fortuna Skiving Machine Restoration

[Northmount]

There are various types of penetrating oil available.  Lots of different brand names. Loosen-all, penetrating oil, rust remover, etc.

In general, they work better than diesel fuel and other light hydrocarbons.

Tom

[DUBYA]

11 minutes ago, Northmount said:

There are various types of penetrating oil available.  Lots of different brand names. Loosen-all, penetrating oil, rust remover, etc.

In general, they work better than diesel fuel and other light hydrocarbons.

Tom

My personal favorite penetrating oil is 'PB Blaster™".  Works 10X better than WD-40 and costs about the same.

[lintonleather]

Wow some great information thank you guys, let me just recap. 

 

- Brake fluids are a stronger penetrating oil than wd40 this should be applied for 24 hours. 

- Heat could cause a worse issue. However what about if you didn’t heat the screw directly and you heated the surrounding metal? Wouldn’t this cause it to expand more than the screw? 

- Thanks for posting that instructions manual. However where can I buy those tools and where to use them as I only see 4 screws? 

- PB Blaster or an alternative could be used instead of brake fluid? 

[Rockoboy]

50 minutes ago, lintonleather said:

if you didn’t heat the screw directly and you heated the surrounding metal?

By heating the metal around the hole (with the threaded bolt/screw in it), you will be shrinking the hole. As the metal expands, it expands in every direction. You will thereby, be adding to the aforementioned tightening of the bolt/screw.

There is a possibility you could crack the housing, if you applied enough heat. Alternatively, the movement of the metal around the thread, 'might' loosen the thread, but only if its held in by a build-up of corrosion or gunk. 

[lintonleather]

So I should try the brake fluid first then

[Rockoboy]

4 minutes ago, lintonleather said:

I should try the brake fluid first then

Any of the chemical possibilities are less likely to cause you a problem, so yes, I would try one or all of them first.

[mikesc]

You could try this Loctite® 8040 ..

LOCTITE LB 8040
Known as LOCTITE 8040 Freeze & Release
Lubricant - emergency repair. Shock freezing (-40°C). Releases rusted, corroded and seized components. Wicks directly into the rust by capillary action.
LOCTITE® LB 8040 is a special mineral oil designed to free rusted, corroded and seized parts. The shock-freezing effect will cool parts instantly down to -43 °C and cause microscopic cracks in the layer of rust. This allows the lubricating ingredients to wick directly into the rust by capillary action. The product leaves a thin film on the released parts that lubricates and prevents rust.

If you take the part that the screw is stuck in to a motor cycle or auto repair garage that uses it, you can ask them to just give a shot of it straight onto the screw..
it usually comes with a very small diameter tube for precise delivery ( like WD40 ) so the thermal shock effect will be directly to the screw ( which is probably steel ) and not to the surrounding metal ( which is probably cast iron, not steel ) ..try immediately to unscrew it..might take a few goes..If you do a lot of "tinkering" best invest in a can..Here it is about €12.00 per 400 ml can..400ml goes a long waaay..



( or it's equivalent if you can get it where you are ) .. Edited April 12, 2019 by mikesc

[lintonleather]

13 minutes ago, mikesc said:

You could try this Loctite® 8040 ..

 

 

 

 

If you take the part that the screw is stuck in to a motor cycle or auto repair garage that uses it, you can ask them to just give a shot of it straight onto the screw..
it usually comes with a very small diameter tube for precise delivery ( like WD40 ) so the thermal shock effect will be directly to the screw ( which is probably steel ) and not to the surrounding metal ( which is probably cast iron, not steel ) ..try immediately to unscrew it..might take a few goes..If you do a lot of "tinkering" best invest in a can..Here it is about €12.00 per 400 ml can..400ml goes a long waaay..



( or it's equivalent if you can get it where you are ) ..

 

 

 

 

Thanks I will google this

15 hours ago, jimi said:

Possibly a little heat like you said could do the trick??. By the looks of the old paint, flat head screw at the end of the shaft and the brass arm i would think you have possibly the very old model Fortuna??  that looks like a 34mm wheel also? 

Yea I just measured it it’s a 34mm wheel. Anyone know where you can get 34mm wheels at a reasonable price? All the Chinese ones are 50mm 

[mikesc]

Is that the flat head screw and what it is screwed into in the pictures* above ? If so, both the screw and the thing it is stuck in are probably steel..you might be able to just heat the ' spilt bracket looking" thing that the screw is stuck in with a small propane torch ( the kind you'd use for heating copper pipes ) or even a heat gun set on "low" and with the precision nozzle so as to only heat the "bracket" and not the screw..If that is the two parts that are "stuck" then the what you have is equivalent to a nut holding a bolt, the "bracket" corresponding to the "nut" part, heat that part, without heating the screw and you may get lucky..

*for some reason the images didn't "load" when I first read the thread, so I was basing my comments off your description only..which sounded like a classic "screw stuck in larger piece of ( maybe cast ) metal" like a screw stuck in engine block..not having a skiver ( no use for one ) I remember the various pictures that others have posted here, usually of curved cast iron bodied machines.

Edited April 12, 2019 by mikesc

[lintonleather]

7 minutes ago, mikesc said:

Is that the flat head screw and what it is screwed into in the pictures* above ? If so, both the screw and the thing it is stuck in are probably steel..you might be able to just heat the ' spilt bracket looking" thing that the screw is stuck in with a small propane torch ( the kind you'd use for heating copper pipes ) or even a heat gun set on "low" and with the precision nozzle so as to only heat the "bracket" and not the screw..If that is the two parts that are "stuck" then the what you have is equivalent to a nut holding a bolt, the "bracket" corresponding to the "nut" part, heat that part, without heating the screw and you may get lucky..

*for some reason the images didn't "load" when I first read the thread, so I was basing my comments off your description only..which sounded like a classic "screw stuck in larger piece of ( maybe cast ) metal" like a screw stuck in engine block..not having a skiver ( no use for one ) I remember the various pictures that others have posted here, usually of curved cast iron bodied machines.

I have a tourch on standby that I will try and use. It’s definitely a stubborn one to remove. I think it’s collected years of dust and grim off the blade over the years and the result is this.