Sewing Machine for Sewing Custom Sneakers

[JohnG305]

Thanks so much Wizcrafts.  On thread size, the machine can handle thread sizes #23 to #92. Do you that #92 is thick enough to assemble shoe uppers like the Air Jordans in my photo. 2-3 layers of leather. Thanks alot!

[Wizcrafts]

5 hours ago, JohnG305 said:

Thanks so much Wizcrafts.  On thread size, the machine can handle thread sizes #23 to #92. Do you that #92 is thick enough to assemble shoe uppers like the Air Jordans in my photo. 2-3 layers of leather. Thanks alot!

If you are going to sew sidewalls, #92/15 pound test thread is marginal, but acceptable if sewn in a double row, with 1/8 inch spacing at no closer than 5 stitches per inch.. You really should use 22 pound test #138 bonded nylon/polyester thread for higher stress areas in the toe box.

[JohnG305]

Thanks again. I was referring to creating/sewing the uppers together and you send me the link from Ron to the awesome TechSew 830-2-R Post Bed Roller Feed- it handles #23 to #92 for stitching shoe uppers, I think #92 is strong enough and they the stitches are visible enough. For my sidewall patching jobs I will use a Singer Cobbler machine.  This Techsew has everything I want. Of course I want it all for less than $2700

 

6 hours ago, JohnG305 said:

Thanks so much Wizcrafts.  On thread size, the machine can handle thread sizes #23 to #92. Do you that #92 is thick enough to assemble shoe uppers like the Air Jordans in my photo. 2-3 layers of leather. Thanks alot!

 

[Wizcrafts]

9 hours ago, JohnG305 said:

SNIP

For my sidewall patching jobs I will use a Singer Cobbler machine.

Do you already have a shoe patcher? Do you realize how tiny their small bobbins are?  If not, if you want to sew sidewalls on, get a large bobbin patcher. They are capable of running #138 thread and won't run out sewing one pair of sneakers like the small bobbin model would.

Singer patchers are actually series 29 machines. They originally were made with only a very small bobbin and a fixed gearbox. These itsy bitsy bobbins are best threaded with no more than T70 bonded, or 3 ply cotton thread. Later on in the 20th Century, Singer extended the arm out to 17.5 inches and made a detachable gearbox that came in small and large shuttle models. The larger bobbin holds enough #138 bonded thread to sew around 5 or 6 belts, guitar straps or rifle slings (I know from doing this for years).

The last and best big bobbin Singer patchers were the 29K72 (1960s) and 29K172 or 29U172 (1970s, made in JP).

[JohnG305]

15 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

If you are going to sew sidewalls, #92/15 pound test thread is marginal, but acceptable if sewn in a double row, with 1/8 inch spacing at no closer than 5 stitches per inch.. You really should use 22 pound test #138 bonded nylon/polyester thread for higher stress areas in the toe box.

Thank you so much. I read your buying guide and I am glad I waited to do the research because thread size does matter. Some of the post bed with top and bottom roller feed have #138 as their largest thread like this Cowboy 8810

http://www.solar-leather.com/cb8810

[JohnG305]

4 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

Do you already have a shoe patcher? Do you realize how tiny their small bobbins are?  If not, if you want to sew sidewalls on, get a large bobbin patcher. They are capable of running #138 thread and won't run out sewing one pair of sneakers like the small bobbin model would.

Singer patchers are actually series 29 machines. They originally were made with only a very small bobbin and a fixed gearbox. These itsy bitsy bobbins are best threaded with no more than T70 bonded, or 3 ply cotton thread. Later on in the 20th Century, Singer extended the arm out to 17.5 inches and made a detachable gearbox that came in small and large shuttle models. The larger bobbin holds enough #138 bonded thread to sew around 5 or 6 belts, guitar straps or rifle slings (I know from doing this for years).

The last and best big bobbin Singer patchers were the 29K72 (1960s) and 29K172 or 29U172 (1970s, made in JP).

Yes it en route, but it was built in 1939 so I am taking it to my repair shop here in Miami. It is a 29K. I attached a pic of the exact machine. Maybe I got lucky and they converted it? Thank you so much for taking the time to help me here. 

[mikesc]

That is a tiny bobbin model..29K4...I have one ( it has short arm, tiny bobbin ) many of us have them..
"These itsy bitsy bobbins are best threaded with no more than T70 bonded, or 3 ply cotton thread." to quote ( and to agree with ) Wiz..
Personally, I've never heard of such a thing as a "conversion"..there is not enough space inside the end of the arm to begin with..

Edited May 16, 2019 by mikesc

[JohnG305]

Thank you Mike. I see now that a conversion would be impossible.. I hope I can stitch one shoe per bobbin and go with the T70 bonded for these patch jobs. 

[Wizcrafts]

22 minutes ago, JohnG305 said:

Thank you Mike. I see now that a conversion would be impossible.. I hope I can stitch one shoe per bobbin and go with the T70 bonded for these patch jobs. 

That is cost ineffective. See if you can exchange that patcher (and pay the difference) for a newer one that has a bigger bobbin.

We've discussed the 29k58 before.

[JohnG305]

22 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

That is cost ineffective. See if you can exchange that patcher (and pay the difference) for a newer one that has a bigger bobbin.

We've discussed the 29k58 before.

22 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

That is cost ineffective. See if you can exchange that patcher (and pay the difference) for a newer one that has a bigger bobbin.

We've discussed the 29k58 before.

6 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

Do you already have a shoe patcher? Do you realize how tiny their small bobbins are?  If not, if you want to sew sidewalls on, get a large bobbin patcher. They are capable of running #138 thread and won't run out sewing one pair of sneakers like the small bobbin model would.

Singer patchers are actually series 29 machines. They originally were made with only a very small bobbin and a fixed gearbox. These itsy bitsy bobbins are best threaded with no more than T70 bonded, or 3 ply cotton thread. Later on in the 20th Century, Singer extended the arm out to 17.5 inches and made a detachable gearbox that came in small and large shuttle models. The larger bobbin holds enough #138 bonded thread to sew around 5 or 6 belts, guitar straps or rifle slings (I know from doing this for years).

The last and best big bobbin Singer patchers were the 29K72 (1960s) and 29K172 or 29U172 (1970s, made in JP).

Thanks Mike and Wizcrafts. You are both correct. Maybe I can exchange or I will need to resell and buy a newer model with the large bobbin. It takes patience because alot of the sellers want local pick up only and they are up north ( I am in Miami). I wish I still lived near Detroit, I am sure I can find one up there.  I made a mistake by assuming all 29Ks had the same bobbin size. 

Edited May 16, 2019 by JohnG305
clarity

[Wizcrafts]

Keep in mind that 29 series machines are meant for shoe and boot repairs, not production. That's why some shipped with a T-bar darning attachment on top.

[JohnG305]

On 5/10/2019 at 12:09 PM, Wizcrafts said:

Here is the machine Ron was referring to that produces the close double row stitches on shoe uppers.

Hi Wiz, thanks. This is the best machine I have found for shoe uppers- you recommended it. It has all of the features I need but I am on the fence about getting a double needle vs. a single needle. It seems like the double needle may be installed in a slightly different position than the single needle and there may be less of a working space when I remove one needle of the dbl needle vs using a single needle. This looks like the trade-off. Maybe the safe bet is a single needle?

[Arttu]

You can do double stitching with a single needle machine, it just takes a little longer and some practice to get the spacing correct. A lot of high end bespoke shoemakers use single needle machines. I personally use a Pfaff 193-5B (single needle, post bed, wheel feed) for shoemaking and have never even considered a double needle machine.

[Wizcrafts]

22 hours ago, JohnG305 said:

Hi Wiz, thanks. This is the best machine I have found for shoe uppers- you recommended it. It has all of the features I need but I am on the fence about getting a double needle vs. a single needle. It seems like the double needle may be installed in a slightly different position than the single needle and there may be less of a working space when I remove one needle of the dbl needle vs using a single needle. This looks like the trade-off. Maybe the safe bet is a single needle?

You can definitely sew uppers with a double needle Puritan chain stitch post machine. Some of their posts are the about as wide as a nickle or quarter at the throat plate. There is no bobbin, just a moving barbed needle. The chain should be okay on the inside of the uppers. That's how Redwing sews their boots.

[JohnG305]

On 5/20/2019 at 7:50 AM, Arttu said:

You can do double stitching with a single needle machine, it just takes a little longer and some practice to get the spacing correct. A lot of high end bespoke shoemakers use single needle machines. I personally use a Pfaff 193-5B (single needle, post bed, wheel feed) for shoemaking and have never even considered a double needle machine.

Artuu, thank you. I was thinking I can create shoe uppers without spending $2300 for the top and bottom synchronized wheel feed. A Yamata 810 is basically the cheaper version of your Pfaff?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamata-GC-FY-810-Sewing-Machine-Post-Bed-Roller-feed-lamp-Servo-Motor-Table-DiY/323816025433?hash=item4b64f06d59:g:yfIAAOSwcdBWTJjD&frcectupt=true

[JohnG305]

On 5/20/2019 at 11:55 AM, Wizcrafts said:

You can definitely sew uppers with a double needle Puritan chain stitch post machine. Some of their posts are the about as wide as a nickle or quarter at the throat plate. There is no bobbin, just a moving barbed needle. The chain should be okay on the inside of the uppers. That's how Redwing sews their boots.

Yes! Thank you Wizcrafts. I see how great the boots turn out.