Popular & Affordable Used Machines for making Bags?

[dikman]

A typical upholstery-class walking foot machine can make quite a bit of mechanical noise when driven full-bore, but when used at the slower speeds many of us use for leatherwork it shouldn't cause a problem for the neighbours (less of an issue than having a tv on, or playing music).

[JC2019]

29 minutes ago, dikman said:

A typical upholstery-class walking foot machine can make quite a bit of mechanical noise when driven full-bore, but when used at the slower speeds many of us use for leatherwork it shouldn't cause a problem for the neighbours (less of an issue than having a tv on, or playing music).

Great good to know. I dont need it to be whisper quiet but wanted to double check

[RockyAussie]

23 hours ago, JC2019 said:

I am looking and the basic configuration is about 2k, I assume I would want the speed reducer too? All the upgrades seem to make it go for about 2.5k That seems to include a bit more but not sure if that's what you would recommend (the table adapter seems interesting to make it flat I believe)

A speed reducer can be a bit of an advantage when you are starting off and can give you a fair bit more punching power but I still have plenty of clutch motors that without reducers and they will have to wear out probably before they get replaced with servo motors. I have one small juki flatbed that I changed to a servo recently and without a reducer and it seems fine and more controllable than with the old clutch. Note: the servo motors make NO noise when they are not turning and that can be a trap as if you hit the peddle and don't realise the machine is on it takes off and .......Hopefully you don't have a finger under the needle or something. They do save a fair bit on the power usage as well compared to a clutch. I think I saw a near new 355 on here for sale a day or so back for only $1900. Here is the link - 

 

[kgg]

On 5/19/2019 at 6:40 AM, JC2019 said:

Ah, that's interesting. I don't know much, but I do know Juki is a good brand?

JC2019, since this is going to your first and main machine, I would strongly advise you to decide on whether it is going to be a cylinder bed or flatbed machine for your stuff. Then decide on a firm price you can afford which will help in deciding whether it is going to be new or used. Finally since it is going to be an expensive investment take a road trip to at least one brick and mortar vendor that has more then one manufacturers machines in stock. Bring along some of what you what to sew and compare not only the results but how the machine sounds and looks. My requirement was the machine had to do a great stitch, run smooth as silk, be flawless and look great right out of the box along with a good detailed readable "English" manual for future reference.

Buying a new or used machine online can be a great experience from a dollar saving perspective for the experienced user or the ultimate nightmare or boat anchor. That is going to depend on the vendor and whether it is purchased from a site like Amazon. Amazon has a great return policy in comparison to some others should there be a problem.

Some new clone machines that I looked at when I was looking for a new machine I do admit their price was enticing, they did sew and that was about it for me. Their look / finish / feel for the price was what you would expect from an old Russian Lada car as well as some did the shake, rattle and roll. Some clones looked OK but sounded like a bucket of bolts banging around in a 45 gallon drum. Makes one pause to wonder about internal quality of parts and their longevity.  It is going to be hard to beat the quality of machines like Juki, Pfaff, Alder and some others. A quality machine will have a better resale value down the road then a similar class of clone. Expect to pay more for a quality machine either new or used. Buy Once, Cry Once.

kgg

[JC2019]

On 5/24/2019 at 5:13 PM, RockyAussie said:

A speed reducer can be a bit of an advantage when you are starting off and can give you a fair bit more punching power but I still have plenty of clutch motors that without reducers and they will have to wear out probably before they get replaced with servo motors. I have one small juki flatbed that I changed to a servo recently and without a reducer and it seems fine and more controllable than with the old clutch. Note: the servo motors make NO noise when they are not turning and that can be a trap as if you hit the peddle and don't realise the machine is on it takes off and .......Hopefully you don't have a finger under the needle or something. They do save a fair bit on the power usage as well compared to a clutch. I think I saw a near new 355 on here for sale a day or so back for only $1900. Here is the link - 

 

I am not sure I understand the difference between the Techsew 2600 and Phaff 335 (maybe the 0.55 inches vs 3/8) and their pros and cons so that probably means I need to research a lot more.

I am currently looking at the 2700, 2750 techsew too. I assume the 2600 is recommended for  a narrower cylinder 

 

[RockyAussie]

1 hour ago, JC2019 said:

I assume the 2600 is recommended for  a narrower cylinder 

That is the main advantage which I find important for the product I make. I have even designed a smaller cap than the original cap to enable even tighter products to fit within. It can do what the others do most of the time except the other 2 you mention can take thread larger than #138. They go to #210 thickness. If that is important in your product line I would go with the 2700 as its needle is close to the edge like the 2600 and has a reduced cut out which at times would allow for fairly tight tubular curve stitching.

[DonInReno]

Honestly I doubt you’ll be able to figure out the exact perfect machine for your style of bags until you try a basic machine to get some experience with the limitations of a flatbed.  It’s a lot like marrying the first person you’ve ever dated - chances are slim that’s the best fit.

I don’t think thread size has even been discussed - huge difference in machines.

[KAYAK45]

OK.  Many of us have been where you are.  So many choices, so many ???!.  FIRST MACHINE, big investment.  It's not just the $$, it will be the time you spend to learn everything about your new machine.  What thread sizes, what needles, what oil or grease and when, can you change tensions and it goes on and on.  DON'T ASK HOW I KNOW THIS.

I love ANIMAL HOUSE, the movie.   ROAD TRIP!  Find a good pro dealer and go.  You don't only need a machine, you must get some support!

I have Singer 31-15, 111-155, 251-3, Cowboy4500, Aristicrat 12, Seiko PW-7B post machine and two Fortuna bell skivers. Each and every one took hours and hours to learn to thread, oil, needle thread size changes, stitch length, etc., and sew or use with control.

MY HUMBLE OPINION ONLY!  Do not buy on Craigs List, E-Bay, Amazon, nor the Local Newspaper. Do not buy a head only and then try to assemble and buy a matching table, motor, thread stand, belt, lighting, guides, needles, thread etc,etc,etc!   You will only get what YOU NEED  from a DEALER.    PERIOD!

Just my opinion after spending thousands $$$, hundreds of hours, to get what I needed.

 

Good hunting, and good luck...just do it!

Kevin

 

 

 

 

[kgg]

22 hours ago, JC2019 said:

On 5/24/2019 at 12:13 AM, RockyAussie said:

 

I am not sure I understand the difference between the Techsew 2600 and Phaff 335 (maybe the 0.55 inches vs 3/8) and their pros and cons so that probably means I need to research a lot more.

Different machines all together other then being cylinder machines. To add to the mix depends on whether you are looking at a new Pfaff 335 which I think max's out at V69 thread or an older version.

kgg