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Posted

Really well done, great job, thanks for sharing.

Industrial sewing and cutting, parts sales and service, family owned since 1977, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania USA, 215/922.6900 info@keysew.com www.keysew.com

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Posted

Hi Folker, 

The decal is fantastic and your Singer post bed is so well restored. I’m in need of a post bed machine for my work and looking hard for one. Post bed is very useful and it does not restrict you from sewing something with odd sizes, like shoes or bags. Wonder what Al thinks of my suggestions about replicating the decals with KisSinger, he has to reply. 

Tony 

  • 6 months later...
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Posted (edited)

Went back to a plain foot - works better for my purposes.

So here is a quick & dirty YT video just to show how well the old 1975 dated 250Watt Moretti motor in addition of a 1:3 Speed reducer performs - really love it! :) It´s just about the performance, not the seam quality ;)

 

Edited by Constabulary

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

  • 9 months later...
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Posted

Hello there.

I came across this post and found it very interesting because I just purchased what looks to be a Singer 51 but it is twin needle one. I have been looking for more information about this machine but there is none so far. Can anyone to know more about this very good looking machine?

 

Thanks in advanced. 

Dayán

  • 3 months later...
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Posted

What needle plate did you end up using?  I tried to open the link you provided.  However, as it has been a little while since you posted, it seems to be no longer working.  I tried to Google golden wheel 810 and 820 needle plate to no success.  I hope you don't mind, but I am going to use your trial and error to replicate your success.  I am also curious what you used as a second thread guide for the shorter needle bar? Thank you for the information you have already provided.

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Posted

just wanted to post a link ;) Yeah, thats the needle plate + feed dog combination one I´m using.

The thread guide on the needle bar came with the needle bar. The NB came from a German made Singer 111D and has a wire type thread guide mounted on the backside of the needle bar. Is your missing?

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted

So I robbed a needle bar from my old Singer 111D which rests on a shelf for some years already and - surprise surprise - the needle bar is pretty much the same so I now can use 135x17 needles - downside is the 111D needle bar is shorter. It works but I have to install a extra guide (have to figure how to do this - already have an idea).

 

 

I didn't see any follow up to this in your later posts.  I assumed that the original guide wouldn't work because the needle bar on the 111D was shorter than the original on the 51w.

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Posted (edited)

  

On 7/6/2021 at 3:17 PM, Jholden0 said:

I am also curious what you used as a second thread guide for the shorter needle bar? Thank you for the information you have already provided.

You said thread guide so I assumed the wire thread guide on the needle bar.

So you mean the upper needle bar guide, right? ;) I took a long presser foot bar screw with same diameter as the needle bar from my spare parts junk box so I have used is as upper NB guide. I think it came form a Durkopp machine. I glued it in with JB quick weld and while curing I turned the and wheel so the NB went up and down. That ensured a straight position of the NB guide.

My idea never was to have a historical correct machine - my focus was on a properly working post sewing machine to replace my former 34K5 which had a tooo long post and the use of 135x17 / 135x16 needles as on most of my other machines. The smaller size of the bed also allows me to use it in the same table as my 107w1 and 143w2.

Edited by Constabulary

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted

Thank you again for the response.  I also have a couple of other machines that use the 135x17 needle.  My consew 226RB-2 specifically, which is the machine I use the most.  I needed a machine to finish tote bags and to stitch shoes.  I didn't have the budget for more machines, especially a modern post bed.  So I found this one at auction for very cheap.  I am essentially trying to replicate the exact same setup that you were able to accomplish.  I figured that what you did A.gives me a working machine with out the complications of having dissimilar needles and other parts and B.  Is a known process which seems to work based on your documentation.  I am not nitpicking what you did in any way.  Rather, I am a novice when it comes to sewing machines.  I found last night, that though the machine was/is extremely dirty and needed lubrication, but actually stitches well after I changed the stitch length based off of your suggestions.  I am waiting for the new needle bar in the mail. I have found one issue which may not even be an issue.  There seems to be some play from side to side of I move the hand wheel from side to side which translates across the shaft from the back of the machine to the front take up lever.  Is this normal? If not, are there bushings between the hand wheel and shaft and the shaft and take up lever connection in the front that are worn out?  Also, the keeper for the bobbin case, had it's spring loaded tab broken off.  How can I remove the Hooke assembly to replace the entire bobbin case and hook?  Is it a set screw like most hooks on industrial machines that would be accessed from the bottom of the machine?  

 

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