Rough out IWB step by step

[Josh Ashman]

I just finished up this rough out IWB for a 5" 1911. It was the first time I'd made this type of holster for a 1911 and I took pictures at the main steps along the way. It's built from 8 oz. HO and dyed with Fiebings brown pro oil. Top coat is M&G cut 50/50 with water. 

Step #1 - draw it. 

Step #2 - parts cut out, stitch lines laid out, T-nuts set in cover piece, straps formed, glued surfaces roughed up, edges that won't be able to be finished later slicked. 

Step #3 - dip dyed and dried.

Step #4 - glue and stitch reinforcement, glue main body, sand edges, stitch main body, edge and slick.

Step #5 - wet mold and install snaps on straps. 

 

 

And, Step #6 - top coat and dry, final touch all edges and done!

[wizard of tragacanth]

Josh, that's a very nice picture tutorial.  Good pics too. You make a fine product.

It's funny. I just made my first rough-out pocket holster, in Fiebing's Mahogany. Has a very similar look to yours.

Just wanted to mention that I found a tool which works great for roughing up the leather prior to gluing.

It's a Tandy tool and it costs $20 but it is worth it. It speeds up the process and it is very accurate and easy to control. It does a great job too.

You can get right up to the line. Glad I got it... wanted to share that with everyone. It's three times better than using an awl.

https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/craftool-pro-detail-rougher

Edited August 12, 2019 by wizard of tragacanth

[Josh Ashman]

Thanks! and thanks for the link to the Tandy tool, it does look like a nice tool!

All the best, Josh

[JLSleather]

Maybe I woulda turnt the loops backard so theys ruffout too?  But I always like seein yer werk, so 

What size that thread? Looks more stout than i usually use, but i like that look.

[Josh Ashman]

Thanks Jeff! That's a valid point on the rough-out loops. I like to mix up smooth and rough-out but all one way or all the other does make for a smooth looking job! Thread size is 277 top and bottom. I use it almost exclusively when I machine sew. I keep a little waxed 207 for hand sewing when I can't find a way around it and have a spool of 138 for light weight projects. I'm lazy enough that I've stitched up 2 pieces of 4 oz with the 277 to avoid changing thread, but then I like a hefty looking thread  

I need to mark my pattern to adjust the stitch line closer from the trigger guard down. It gets a little wide by the end of the barrel. It's a personal holster and being an IWB I'm sure it won't ever be a problem, but it doesn't have that  super close, pretty looking stitch line you always have. Always something to do better on!

All the best, Josh

 

[JLSleather]

I usually use 277, but thought that looked heavier.  Must be the color contrast.  Now that i thought it was heavier, i gotta try it heavier.  Think i got some 346 round here sumares.

[Dwight]

I got stuck on 346 about 15 years ago . . . if I do something in 277, . . . looks like I used my wife's sewing thread, . . . I'm so used to the heavier look.

Got a spool of 4 something, . . . REALLY BIG, . . . gonna do a white stitch black belt with that one of these days, . . . just for kicks and giggles.

I'ma lika dat holster there Josh, . . . always have been kinda partial to roughout, . . . although I don't do very many of em.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Double Daddy]

Great work, Josh...as always. Saw this rig when it landed on FB...wasn't expecting the pictorial on this side of things...appreciate the extra insight into your process!

[Josh Ashman]

I've thought about trying some 346 myself, when I need to re-order thread I'll have to get some. Do you guys use the same size needle on your machines as you would for the 277, or do you have to go up a size? I'm currently using #25 needles for the 277.

Thanks Dwight and Chis! 

Hope it's a great day everybody! 

[Treed]

I have found 26 works best for me with 346