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Posted (edited)
On 11/27/2019 at 5:02 PM, Dantan said:

Hi,

I am sorry,  I forgot to post as to how it was all resolved...

I decided to try a new cone of thread....    and it worked!!!!

All I can think of is that the thread is so stiff, that it gets to the end of the cone,  the curve is so tight, it is twisting the thread....    not sure..  but,  a new cone seemed to fix it!!

 

Dantan

 

 

For helping get the thread relaxed when using thread with higher memory and curl coming off the Cones . I think most people are thinking way to small for the length of travel of there thread, from the Cone to the eye of the needle .
On my machine thread tree's . For the length of thread travel, From the Cones to the Needle . I average more than 6 Ft.+ of travel length in it's routing . I am a true believer in this, and I don't get these problems since I just expanded on the Thread Stands and gave ample free-range for the Threads to relax some along it's travels to the eye .
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Edited by nylonRigging
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Posted

I have made all my thread stands longer, but I thought mine where long, wow, nylonRigging 6 foot, my might look at changing the stand on my 132K6, I have a roll of Black giving me a little grief, every now and then.

Bert.

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Posted
On 11/28/2019 at 5:57 PM, Bert51 said:

Some years back, all I had was my wife's Viking sewing machine and I had all sorts of problems using large spools with it and I made my own thread spool, although it was heaps better I still had a few problems with it, mainly towards the end of the spool.

All I did after reading gotoknows post was to make a wire rig that gave me about a foot of straight thread above the spool holder and before coming to the machine first thread guide.

I think if you give the thread a place where it can be kept straight for a short time some of the tension is released from the thread and there fore goes through the machine easier.

All of my machine thread stands have about a foot straight before going to the machine and I have one less problem with my thread.

If it was as easy to fix the link error on the machine, that would be great.

Added a picture of one of my early thread stands, thank heavens for fencing wire.

Bert.

my thread stand (resized).jpg

my high dollar solution

 

 

20191130_075711.jpg

 

Singer 66, Chi Chi Patcher, Rex 26-188, singer 29k62 , 2-needles

D.C.F.M

 

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Posted (edited)
14 hours ago, Bert51 said:

I have made all my thread stands longer, but I thought mine where long, wow, nylonRigging 6 foot, my might look at changing the stand on my 132K6, I have a roll of Black giving me a little grief, every now and then.

Bert.

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Getting 6-ft.+ of thread routing from the Cone to the Needle is easy . 'Increase Distance' of the thread routing travel, will let thread relax more, on it way threw it's path, before it gets to the Needle .
( the Std. ) industrial thread tree sold that screws to your machine top, is all the same design . There just a 2-piece of 'short' , O.D. 5/8th" Pipe, with a clamp-coupling in middle .
Simple fix . just remove the top section of Pipe on the Thread Stand . Then replace it with a piece of 5/8th" pipe that is ' LONG ' .  ( rise the Cones up ) and the ( top thread arm to the top ) , Above/away from clutter of machine area, with also gaining the distance for thread distance it routed .

I run 8 machines, and I started a couple years ago getting the thread Cones above and away from all the work done at the machines . It not hard after you do a couple the rest of the tread tree stands goes pretty quick for extending UPward . The Pipe used is common and inexpensive and  found any hardware . It is just Copper water pipe usually sold in 10-Ft. sticks at any Hardware store .
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1591986868_1-pipeextension.thumb.jpg.0550c60521c78b32d31b41f71b1382de.jpg

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( in pic. below ) . There is also arm extensions that mount to the Thread Stands .  That you can get to Guide\Route your Thread to the 1st Thread-post of you machine . I have a couple of them but wish I had more of them .
they look like this , and are clean effective routing arm to hang-off the Thread tree's . ( if ever find let me know ) as I could use more of them .

You will find every machine is going to be a little different on it's needs for thread routing, like double-needle, or single-needle, or your heavy thread-cord machines . You get more distance and with that fact,  basically you want to keep it all orderly and going threw it's eyelets to the Sew machines 1st thread-post , and also route down to the machines Bobbin winder .
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1-route arm.jpg

Edited by nylonRigging
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Posted

Thanks for showing us that nylonRigging, you gave me an idea saved your photos to print out later.

I changed out some curtains for the wife some time back and put the old rods in the shed and a quick look and think they are the same size as the thread stand rod.

Looks I will be playing with a thread stand before the day is out.

Bert.

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Posted

@ Frodo, may I ask who your is?

We don't have them in Australia.

Bert.

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Posted
1 hour ago, Bert51 said:

Thanks for showing us that nylonRigging, you gave me an idea saved your photos to print out later.

I changed out some curtains for the wife some time back and put the old rods in the shed and a quick look and think they are the same size as the thread stand rod.

Looks I will be playing with a thread stand before the day is out.

Bert.

Good idea, you just reminded me that I did the same thing! Waste not want not.;) I'll have to check the size.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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