Beeswax for holster finish

[chiefjason]

FYI, molding and dying the holster strips some of the moisture from the leather.  Introducing some oil is not a bad thing.  Most makers apply a light coat of something.  Either directly oiling it or I mix mine into my beeswax to accomplish the same thing.  I apply 3 coats and it's not nearly enough to soften the holster.  But it does great things for the look of the leather.  

[DuaneS]

 

 

 

 

 

3

13 hours ago, bcraig said:

I am going to use the Straight Beeswax,non perishable and from what I have read there have been finds of beeswax several thousand years old that the beeswax was still fine .
Out of curiosity how often do you reapply ?

Thanks to all for your sharing of your information.

I haven't yet, but I didn't just 'dip-it' in beeswax.  I soaked it.

[dikman]

As chiefjason pointed out, wet-molding and dyeing strips the leather and hardens it significantly, which is why most give it a coat of neatsfoot oil first, to add a bit of oil back into it. There's nothing wrong with using straight beeswax other than it needs to be warmed up to make it workable, as you said. In my experiments with various wax mixes I came across one chap who said to mix pure gum turpentine (NOT the manufactured stuff!) in with the beeswax to make it softer. Yes, it worked, but over time the turpentine tended to evaporate out and leave a black gunk in the container. Not good. I've also seen mention of using Pine oil but have no idea how effective it would be.

When you've finished your project let us know how it went.

 

[BruceEW]

On 9/15/2019 at 1:51 AM, dikman said:

Well, my tallow has been sitting in an unsealed container for quite a few years, stored in a shed that gets bloody hot in Summer and very cold in Winter, and hasn't gone off. I've got several concoctions I've mixed, using tallow, and likewise had no issue with deterioration. Just sayin'.

What method do you use to process your tallow? 

[dikman]

Pretty simple, I used an old electric slow cooker my wife was throwing out, chopped up the suet and left it in there for several hours to reduce. I poured out the liquid to cool and gave the cruzzly bits left behind to the chooks. Doesn't get much easier.

I told the butcher what I wanted to do and he gave me suitable scraps from the sheep carcasses, not quite the "pure" suet but worked fine for my needs.

[Lobo]

For those interested in a historically correct method for finishing leather goods I would suggest the method used by many saddle and harness makers of the 19th Century.

Neatsfoot oil in a metal container with about an equal volume of beeswax added, heat modestly until the beeswax emulsifies into the neatsfoot oil, then use a piece of shearling to apply to the outer leather surfaces allowing it to be fully absorbed. Then use a soft cloth to buff the surfaces to a low luster.

This was a very common finishing method that withstands exposure to moisture and weather pretty well. Perhaps needless to say, the heavily penetrating neatsfoot oil can be expected to soften the leather and make it pliable, so this is not the best possible finishing method for formed leather holsters or other products that must retain shape in use.

I have been using neatsfoot oil as a basic finishing product for leather products since 1972, and I have never known it to "go bad" or become rancid. A moderate treatment of neatsfoot oil replaces some of the moisture lost in the process of tanning the hide to create leather, which can protect against cracking and splitting at stress points in use. Too much neatsfoot oil will make leather limp and unsuitable for many uses, so care must be taken. Neatsfoot oil is rendered from the feet and lower legs of cattle, where it occurs naturally as a means for preventing the feet and lower legs from freezing in cold weather. It can be referred to as "cow oil" with a high degree of accuracy.

Note that there is pure neatsfoot oil and there is neatsfoot oil compound, which contains mineral oil and other ingredients. Pure neatsfoot oil is more expensive, but I recommend it for use in the leather shop.

[steelhawk]

I have some Aussie Wax that I occasionally use. It is years old and has no rancid smell. I think I got it at Tandy, but maybe Springfield. I normally only use Neatsfoot oil on my holsters.

[Professor]

On 10/5/2019 at 10:20 PM, Lobo said:

For those interested in a historically correct method for finishing leather goods I would suggest the method used by many saddle and harness makers of the 19th Century.

Neatsfoot oil in a metal container with about an equal volume of beeswax added, heat modestly until the beeswax emulsifies into the neatsfoot oil, then use a piece of shearling to apply to the outer leather surfaces allowing it to be fully absorbed. Then use a soft cloth to buff the surfaces to a low luster.

This was a very common finishing method that withstands exposure to moisture and weather pretty well. Perhaps needless to say, the heavily penetrating neatsfoot oil can be expected to soften the leather and make it pliable, so this is not the best possible finishing method for formed leather holsters or other products that must retain shape in use.

I have been using neatsfoot oil as a basic finishing product for leather products since 1972, and I have never known it to "go bad" or become rancid. A moderate treatment of neatsfoot oil replaces some of the moisture lost in the process of tanning the hide to create leather, which can protect against cracking and splitting at stress points in use. Too much neatsfoot oil will make leather limp and unsuitable for many uses, so care must be taken. Neatsfoot oil is rendered from the feet and lower legs of cattle, where it occurs naturally as a means for preventing the feet and lower legs from freezing in cold weather. It can be referred to as "cow oil" with a high degree of accuracy.

Note that there is pure neatsfoot oil and there is neatsfoot oil compound, which contains mineral oil and other ingredients. Pure neatsfoot oil is more expensive, but I recommend it for use in the leather shop.

Very interesting , especially for me since I had thought I'd invented that method of finishing. I left the leather a bit moist from stamping and shaping so as the moisture cooks out on the flesh side it draws the oil and wax deeper into the surface.

I mainly used this on basket weave holsters and cigarette cases. After applying a thick coating on the outer surface I used a heat lamp or held the piece above a stove eye to evenly warm it enough that the wax/oil compound stayed liquid to more easily soak in..

I used more wax than oil ( about 3 to 1)and the deep penetration resulted in the leather becoming not so much stiff but with good body and holding its shape and stampings very solidly.

For pieces like the cigarette boxes that I wanted extra stiff I soaked the leather in very hot water which caused much of whatever was naturally in the leather between the fibers to boil out . I soaked it till the surface felt like clay. As the leather dried enough to take stamping it seemed to have swelled compared to its original thickness, probably liquid filled spaces had formed. When treated with the wax as mentioned the water moisture left through the flesh side and the wax was drawn deep into these spaces.

I think this may be how Cuir bolle leather armor was made.

[wizard of tragacanth]

Thanks Lobo and Professor! Great information, much appreciated.

Lobo, I just want to say thank you for the volumes of good advice that you have given over the years on this forum. When thinking about my beginnings in leather, your name always comes to my mind as a knowledgeable, gentle and wise guide. Maybe I told you this before, but it bears repeating.

Thank you, Sir!

nick

Edited October 23, 2019 by wizard of tragacanth

[Steve75]

On 10/5/2019 at 7:20 PM, Lobo said:

For those interested in a historically correct method for finishing leather goods I would suggest the method used by many saddle and harness makers of the 19th Century.

Neatsfoot oil in a metal container with about an equal volume of beeswax added, heat modestly until the beeswax emulsifies into the neatsfoot oil, then use a piece of shearling to apply to the outer leather surfaces allowing it to be fully absorbed. Then use a soft cloth to buff the surfaces to a low luster.

This was a very common finishing method that withstands exposure to moisture and weather pretty well. Perhaps needless to say, the heavily penetrating neatsfoot oil can be expected to soften the leather and make it pliable, so this is not the best possible finishing method for formed leather holsters or other products that must retain shape in use.

I have been using neatsfoot oil as a basic finishing product for leather products since 1972, and I have never known it to "go bad" or become rancid. A moderate treatment of neatsfoot oil replaces some of the moisture lost in the process of tanning the hide to create leather, which can protect against cracking and splitting at stress points in use. Too much neatsfoot oil will make leather limp and unsuitable for many uses, so care must be taken. Neatsfoot oil is rendered from the feet and lower legs of cattle, where it occurs naturally as a means for preventing the feet and lower legs from freezing in cold weather. It can be referred to as "cow oil" with a high degree of accuracy.

Note that there is pure neatsfoot oil and there is neatsfoot oil compound, which contains mineral oil and other ingredients. Pure neatsfoot oil is more expensive, but I recommend it for use in the leather shop.

Thank you for sharing this valuable knowledge.