New Supplies. What do I need?

[Rebeldevil]

Hey guys, me and my husband got bit and have been hooked on leather crafting. It started as a hobby a few weeks ago but we both found a passion in it. A few of his buddies from work want some stuff for Christmas so we want to make it look more 'professional' and last better. We picked up a basic tool set and some stamps. But we are pretty clueless when it comes to how to finish our leather. We have a Tandy's about two hours away we are going to next weekend to pick stuff up, but I wanted to get some recommendations on products from Tandy's you guys like. I've seen a lot about the Clear-Lac/Neat-Lac, saddle lac, tote lac, ect. We know we want to do a lot of antique finish but according to Tandy's website you dye, use a pro resist, antique finish, then neat lac. But won't a resist keep the antique from absorbing? Also, what is the proper process? So far we follow this- cut, groove, bevel edges, sand, burnish, tool/carve, oil (let soak overnight), then sew together. Is there a better method and how to do we finish? I posted my first project I did, a sheath for my throwing knives. I did the art then colored it with regular acrylic paint from Hobby Lobby (which I'm sure you probably shouldn't use).  We are looking at getting the Eco flo glue, fiebing dyes, fiebing all in one antique finish, fiebing pro resist, eco flo neat-lac, and neats foot oil. Is there anything else we should get? I'm sorry for all the questions. Just want to make sure we are on the right path

Edited November 7, 2019 by Rebeldevil

[Frodo]

11 minutes ago, Rebeldevil said:

Hey guys, me and my husband got bit and have been hooked on leather crafting. It started as a hobby a few weeks ago but we both found a passion in it. A few of his buddies from work want some stuff for Christmas so we want to make it look more 'professional' and last better. We picked up a basic tool set and some stamps. But we are pretty clueless when it comes to how to finish our leather. We have a Tandy's about two hours away we are going to next weekend to pick stuff up, but I wanted to get some recommendations on products from Tandy's you guys like. I've seen a lot about the Clear-Lac/Neat-Lac, saddle lac, tote lac, ect. We know we want to do a lot of antique finish but according to Tandy's website you dye, use a pro resist, antique finish, then neat lac. But won't a resist keep the antique from absorbing? Also, what is the proper process? So far we follow this- cut, groove, bevel edges, sand, burnish, tool/carve, oil (let soak overnight), then sew together. Is there a better method and how to do we finish? I posted my first project I did, a sheath for my throwing knives. I did the art then colored it with regular acrylic paint from Hobby Lobby (which I'm sure you probably shouldn't use).  We are looking at getting the Eco flo glue, fiebing dyes, fiebing all in one antique finish, fiebing pro resist, eco flo neat-lac, and neats foot oil. Is there anything else we should get? I'm sorry for all the questions. Just want to make sure we are on the right path

subscribe to these guys, and start watching there videos 

 

[Hildebrand]

I would watch the videos posted, look on youtube for others similar then practice.  I really wouldn't figure on being ready to produce gifts for this christmas.  I have never used antique but just being able to use the dies and finishes is an adventure.  Best to try different products and combinations to find what works for you.  It is very difficult to produce a list of this is what you need because everyone does things slightly different.

Todd

[DJole]

4 hours ago, Rebeldevil said:

Hey guys, me and my husband got bit and have been hooked on leather crafting. It started as a hobby a few weeks ago but we both found a passion in it. A few of his buddies from work want some stuff for Christmas so we want to make it look more 'professional' and last better. We picked up a basic tool set and some stamps. But we are pretty clueless when it comes to how to finish our leather. We have a Tandy's about two hours away we are going to next weekend to pick stuff up, but I wanted to get some recommendations on products from Tandy's you guys like. I've seen a lot about the Clear-Lac/Neat-Lac, saddle lac, tote lac, ect. We know we want to do a lot of antique finish but according to Tandy's website you dye, use a pro resist, antique finish, then neat lac. But won't a resist keep the antique from absorbing? Also, what is the proper process? So far we follow this- cut, groove, bevel edges, sand, burnish, tool/carve, oil (let soak overnight), then sew together. Is there a better method and how to do we finish? I posted my first project I did, a sheath for my throwing knives. I did the art then colored it with regular acrylic paint from Hobby Lobby (which I'm sure you probably shouldn't use).  We are looking at getting the Eco flo glue, fiebing dyes, fiebing all in one antique finish, fiebing pro resist, eco flo neat-lac, and neats foot oil. Is there anything else we should get? I'm sorry for all the questions. Just want to make sure we are on the right path

Hello, Rebeldevil, and welcome to the forum!

1) What are these "things" that these work buddies want? If you mean wallets, holsters, sheaths, etc., that's an awfully tight schedule, especially if you've only just begun learning the process. If they just want keyfobs, or coasters, that may be possible. But if you want to do good work, it'll likely take more than 2 months to get the hang of it. 
2) Hobby Lobby acrylic paints should be just fine. I don't think that there is a special "leather-only" acrylic. You just have to know that acrylic paint sits on top of the leather, and is thus exposed to wear and scratches. So you'll certainly want to cover it with a finish, like you are planning to do. 
3) Eco-flo glue is basically PVA (poly-vinyl-acetate). It's okay, but I find that other adhesives hold better and faster (like Barge brand cement, for example.) 
4) Among your list of finishes, you might get some Fiebing's Resolene finish, too. You should take time to find and watch reviews like this--<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyTg_hfpNUM>  This video is Ian Atkinson's review of various leather finishes, featured on his YouTube channel. Ian has a LOT of other good information (about tools and techniques) on his YouTube channel that you will likely find very useful as you start out. 
5) As far as additional tools go -- do you have sharpening stones for your edged tools, and a strop? Having these things and learning to used them will really help out!
 

Edited November 7, 2019 by DJole

[Rockoboy]

I have used cheap acrylic artist paint on leather, but I found it adhered better if the first coat was thinned down about 1:1 with water.

The resist is applied prior to antique, but only on the parts where you want the antique to be applied less. So, if you have a design stamped or carved that you want to highlight darker, apply the resist all around the design so the antique has no effect on that part.

I agree with @DJole that you have not given yourselves much time to learn, practice and practice and practice some more.

Most important thing ... have fun and enjoy what you are doing.

[JLSleather]

Okay, I took as much of that video as I could.  Kaint say I didnt' try.  Mr. Darnell has a point about getting "crust" leather -- you get to color it the way you want it.  Good call. Otherwise....

Skip the "ant-streak".  That stuff is aimed at SPEED and EASE...  but not at anything else.  It does give some CONTRAST, but it's a crap way to do it really.  Always reminds me of the "splotches" left behind when the rain dries up - you know, the dirt piles where the puddles formed ... And it's an acrylic, so WHERE do you think it goes when the leather gets pulled and flexed?@!  (hint:  burying it in "sealer" or "finish" is not an acceptable 'fix').   Anyway, take a closer look at something where that stuff was used -- tell me it doesn't look like puddles after the rain ... (disclaimer: I did use antique paste once this year.  Gal specifically asked for it - no doubt some confused soul told her you should have that -- and agreed to admit to everyone she meets that she asked for that).

There are a few guys used this stuff to some benefit (to THEM).  I've seen Don Gonzalez do a piece using it, and that looked okay IN SPITE OF the antique - not because of the antique - and it would have looked better without it.  Don - nice carvin' (honest) but I just kaint git with ya on the antique (or the turquoise paint - the guys I know like girls  ).

19 hours ago, Rebeldevil said:

So far we follow this- cut, groove, bevel edges, sand, burnish, tool/carve, oil (let soak overnight), then sew together.

I probably didn't quite understand what you meant here, but I don't think I've ever 'grooved' before I've tooled, and I've certainly never burnished before carving.