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Now now, lets be nice :grouphug5vj5:    :cheers:    <<< and do this ,..... like I'm doing right now :) 

Meanwhile, 

1 hour ago, fredk said:

Doing 6 at a time like this would take only slightly longer than doing one.

That sorta  along the idea I was using for  edge dying large numbers of belts , but I tidied up the tops of the belts after ,  as some dye dribbled  a onto the tops. But all turned out quite good. But never tried burnishing using that method, might try it myself . 

HS 

' I have a very gweat friend in Wome called Biggus Dickus,

He has a wife you know, do you know whats she's called? Incontinentia.......Incontinentia Buttocks '  :rofl:

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On 11/18/2019 at 9:18 PM, Jason046 said:

Sounds good. I'm always looking for new ways to try

Maybe I'm missing something but I find that if I slick the edge right after dyeing I get as good an edge as anything else I've tried.  The key is to burnish the edge while the dye is still wet.  I power burnish using a cocobolo wheel.

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6 minutes ago, sbrownn said:

The key is to burnish the edge while the dye is still wet

That works for me too  :) 

HS

' I have a very gweat friend in Wome called Biggus Dickus,

He has a wife you know, do you know whats she's called? Incontinentia.......Incontinentia Buttocks '  :rofl:

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Posted

Thanks for all the info, I have been doing edges for a long time and as good as I get them I am never satisfied. They take up a lot of time but going to have to give some of these a try. My main goal is them holding up over time. I see my product out and the last thing I want is a edge that has lost its burnish

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Posted
On 11/30/2019 at 1:57 PM, NeilMott said:

I wonder if you read the entire thread...  Many people were offering their thoughts, their opinions, their questions not only in terms of how to do what, but also materials.  I wonder if you have publicly admonished them as well...  Maybe reported them to the moderators? 

Fredk didn't think I was hijacking this thread.  He gave me some really useful advice and I was showing what I did - which may or may not have been the fast easiest way, using 2 kinds of wax.  He recognizes that he's got expertise and experience and was kind enough to offer his advice and wisdom.  As a teacher, I truly appreciate it.  Was it the best place to post?  I dunno.  Based on what other people had posted I thought my question was relevant to other posts and thought it might help others.

As an aside, being a chemistry teacher/chemist, and not knowing what all the dyes are made of, I'd think if you were burnishing with wax before dyeing, the dyes would either not go through the wax (if the dye is water soluble) or they might dissolve any wax on the leather (not-water soluble).    All depends on what you're burnishing with and when you decide to burnish.  

Neil

Neil

 

I apologize for my quick to judge comment.

I hope we can move on from here  

 

 

Singer 66, Chi Chi Patcher, Rex 26-188, singer 29k62 , 2-needles

D.C.F.M

 

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And yes you are right, water and saddle soap are fine to burnish with before dyeing but I learned the hard way that bees wax and gumtrag can seal the leather so if you get some on your leather it wont accept the dye

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On 11/18/2019 at 10:11 AM, fredk said:

I only use a beeswax/nfo/carnauba wax mix for my edges. Edge is dyed and then the mix is applied with a cloth and burnished using either a wood slicker or just a piece of linen.

Hey, this is probably a stupid question but I was going to try your mix and was wondering what nfo was? Cant find a description for it

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Posted

nfo is short for Neatsfoot oil.   (not neatsfoot compound) - Very useful stuff in leather work in a number of ways.  

My preferred edge finish is a quick burnish with water and maybe a little saddle soap - then dye as needed.  A light burnish first helps keep the dye from oversaturating, as it sometimes does on a raw edge.   That's followed by a more thorough burnish using Tokonol, and maybe a little beeswax after that.  Tokonol makes a beautiful edge, but for some things it's a little too shiny, beeswax knocks that shine down a bit.

I do use a 50/50 beeswax/nfo mix (melted together in a jar in a water bath)  as an overall finish for some items, if needed melted in with a hairdryer.  It makes a very nice finish - not too glossy, not too matte, and water resistant.

- Bill

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Posted
11 hours ago, billybopp said:

nfo is short for Neatsfoot oil.   (not neatsfoot compound) - Very useful stuff in leather work in a number of ways.  

My preferred edge finish is a quick burnish with water and maybe a little saddle soap - then dye as needed.  A light burnish first helps keep the dye from oversaturating, as it sometimes does on a raw edge.   That's followed by a more thorough burnish using Tokonol, and maybe a little beeswax after that.  Tokonol makes a beautiful edge, but for some things it's a little too shiny, beeswax knocks that shine down a bit.

I do use a 50/50 beeswax/nfo mix (melted together in a jar in a water bath)  as an overall finish for some items, if needed melted in with a hairdryer.  It makes a very nice finish - not too glossy, not too matte, and water resistant.

- Bill

Nice, yes I have used neatsfoot oil for awhile just didnt know the abbreviation.  I have been doing a similar process. Burnish withwater to get the edges to come together,  then dye and finish with beeswax. Just tried the 50/50 mix of beeswax and nfo today and really like it. Might get some Ron's edge rub and give that a try as well. Right now we do about 20) 65"straps a month so I get alot of practice. Lol

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Posted

Hey Frodo.

No hard feelings.  It's tough to judge tone, etc online.  I appreciate you saying so.  Threads wander and often I find out new/different ideas by reading through threads that we're always 100% on topic.

Best,

Neil

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