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You weld each side of the end section of the bell crank and then go to work on the weld to profile it with a sanding drum on a Dremel.  I have 28 bell cranks to rebuild.

glenn

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Posted
13 minutes ago, shoepatcher said:

You weld each side of the end section of the bell crank and then go to work on the weld to profile it with a sanding drum on a Dremel.  I have 28 bell cranks to rebuild.

glenn

wow ..  28 of them to do. that's a lot of listening to that Dremel screaming in your ear .. LOL . . I called one of buddies who lives about an hour from me and he is pretty good and current with welding small items, and I pretty good with a Dremel. so I should be GTG and get it done pretty easy .

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Posted (edited)

Why not sticking with the new one? Or is it just for historical reasons? I have 1 or 2 brazed tip BCL´s as well but honestly I would rather buy a new one instead of reconditioning an old one. One day I figured that one of the used BCL has a different angle than the other ones - why that - bent? I have no idea and I do not recall where it came from (drawer find?). Maybe I can post pictures later. So since then when ever I have to replace a BCL (well, not too often really) I better buy a new one so I'm sure it is straight. They are not too expensive in comparisons with the time you spent for brazing and filing (measuring, filing... measuring, filing....). And you can be sure the tip is symmetric. BTW - tip diameter is 5mm.

My 2 cents. ;)

Edited by Constabulary

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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The aftermarket part is working satisfactory (after working it over) and nothing to really bitch about . But ya, just think it the right thing to do is keep it all original #'s parts because of the age and condition . I am into it now for a lot of my time on the head and also put a couple hundred+$ into stripping Treadle and powdercoat . It is handy machine but No Doubt it not practical with time and energy put into it to get it respectable to sit in my sew room . really it will sit with a cover over it more than it will ever be used sewing .

.

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Posted (edited)

Okay got it. ;)  So it depends on the point of view.

However - I just wanted to show how "bad" a BCL can look like and even brazing would not make it useable. Bend it back? Yeah, could work but will it? Will you hit the right angle? You would not even notice this if you don´t have a  BCL to compare with. I´d rather buy a new BCL before bitching with worn out parts. Just wanted to show this. Right one is the bent one. Left one is an almost perfect BCL.

IMG_9785.thumb.JPG.9c93e77090d3937e40ed71d151c27d44.JPG

 

IMG_9788.JPG

Edited by Constabulary

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted

Nothing a big hammer won't fix!:lol:

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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Posted

Constabulary,

Two things.  1).The bell crank for the 29-4 no longer made and no new ones available.  2.) A few are Adler bell cranks and you know want  what a new one costs.  3. The only things that really wears on a bell crank is the 2 lobes at the end.  You weld, profile and even make the lobes a little bigger than  original and stitch gets even longer.  Singer made some long stitch versions that I know of,  the  29K52 and 54 are two of them.  I would like to see the bell crank on those.

glenn

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Posted

Glenn - I modified a BCL for a 29K71 for a 29K1 - worked w/o problem, NilonRigging did the same here.

Kick me but I´m sure I once put a Singer 29K71 BCL in a Adler 30-1 a while ago. And if I recall correctly beside some moderate grinding I just needed the 2 Singer screws for attaching it (Adler 30 BCL have a different threading). When ever a 30 class crosses my way I will try it again and report back. ;)

But yes - Adler 30 part prices are nuts!

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted
15 hours ago, Constabulary said:

Okay got it. ;)  So it depends on the point of view.

However - I just wanted to show how "bad" a BCL can look like and even brazing would not make it useable. Bend it back? Yeah, could work but will it? Will you hit the right angle? You would not even notice this if you don´t have a  BCL to compare with. I´d rather buy a new BCL before bitching with worn out parts. Just wanted to show this. Right one is the bent one. Left one is an almost perfect BCL.

 

 

-

ya i hear ya on the new generic BCL's and really no reason not to keep it working in the bell . The new BCL part sells really cheap-$ and will bring new life to your 29-4 stitch length .
( The new-sold 'generic' BCL's ) , that will 'Not' just Drop-in to a 29-4 and work .. Now that I figured out what to remove/grind resurface on the 1st one I bought . I could could modify another one a lot easy and faster . It really not that hard .
I surprised a lot more people not doing it . On those aftermarket china BCL's . all you need is a couple hours with a small Vice , Dremel , File and a magnifying loop to do a good job to getting it to fit-in and running good on your old machine .

thanks ... for the ( bent angle Pic. ) , the original BCL that I took out still looks and sits at straight angle . So I will get my buddy to braze and I will resurface .
.

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Posted

My 29K53 looks like it has part number 8559, but do not seem to find that part anywhere after google search, can you use otherBCL's or is there something special about the 8559

Mi omputer is ot ood at speeling , it's not me

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