Everything Ferdco Pro 2000

[dikman]

Looks great! The machine doesn't show any obvious signs of wear on the paint so I wonder just how much it was used? The needle holes definitely look on the large side, but it's sewing! It's alive!!

Just think how easy it will be to make holsters now.

[shoepatcher]

Balance wheel looks like it downs line up with the slot in table?   Does it or is the photo not right?

glenn

[dikman]

Regarding the closed centre toe, it's possible to open it up by using a Dremel with a cut-off disc and just cut a slot in front of the hole. I did that on one of my Singer feet.

[shoepatcher]

Also, the pitman arm that connects the treadle to the arm on the clutch to end gage the motor should be  vertical to get the best results.  Right now,  it is at a large angle.  Loosen the connector and move it on the  pedal rod.  Machine will work smoother.

glenn

[CowboyBob]

2 hours ago, shoepatcher said:

Also, the pitman arm that connects the treadle to the arm on the clutch to end gage the motor should be  vertical to get the best results.  Right now,  it is at a large angle.  Loosen the connector and move it on the  pedal rod.  Machine will work smoother.

glenn

Looks to me like he doesn't have it fastened onto the right-side of the arm yet.There's no where to fasten it on the leftside.

[RemingtonSteel]

14 hours ago, JJN said:

The foot pressure may be a bit too much. Try backing it off a little and see if it still holds the leather down as the needle rises. That may help reduce the marking of the leather.

I thought the same thing, and had already reduced the foot pressure before reading this.  After reading this, I have backed off the pressure some more (now about 10 complete turns), but it is still making the marks, but not as much.  I just found in the manual that the "Normal height of presser spring regulator is 30 mm."  Right now I am at 35 mm, a and am not sure how much more I can/should back it off, but I will play around with it some more.

13 hours ago, dikman said:

The machine doesn't show any obvious signs of wear on the paint so I wonder just how much it was used?

I was thinking the same thing.  The son said his father had used it for awhile then went back to hand sewing (pack saddles), as he preferred it more.  The son used it to sew one holster a few years back... So I am guessing not much use.

12 hours ago, shoepatcher said:

Balance wheel looks like it downs line up with the slot in table?

Partial illusion. With the belt on, there is about a 1/4" space between the belt and the left side of the cutout in the table.

2 hours ago, shoepatcher said:

Also, the pitman arm that connects the treadle to the arm on the clutch to end gage the motor should be  vertical to get the best results.

CowboyBob is spot on, as it is not vertical as I don't have it connected yet. I put the minimal amount of assembly into it so that I could clean it up and lubricate it in the driveway.  I then disassembled it to move it to its new home in the house where everything was assembled correctly including the work lamp and spool holder.

Edited November 30, 2019 by RemingtonSteel

[RemingtonSteel]

After playing with it yesterday, I could probably live with the clutch motor if I had to, but I don't have the very slow speed control that I see with servo motors.  To me it will be well worth the extra cost to get a servo motor for the extra control. 

Clutch motor questions: With the power on, I cannot turn the handwheel by hand if the clutch isn't engaged. It is as if there is a break to stop the machine when the clutch is disengaged, which would make sense. I obviously can't turn the handwheel by hand once I do engage the clutch as the motor takes over.  So how do you use the handwheel with a clutch motor? Right now I find it very difficult to stop the machine at the exact top or bottom of the stroke.  Can you turn the handwheel by hand with a servo motor, or is there even a need to?   

Also the clutch motor has a 6v power outlet to supply power to the 6v 17w incandescent work light, that barely provides any additional light to the work area.  Going to have to upgrade that as well once I upgrade to a servo motor.

[Wizcrafts]

All modern era clutch motors have a big bolt on the right front that adjusts the slack between the brake and the clutch ring. Back out the bolt to get more free movement, then set the locknut.

There is a thumbscrew on the arm under the motor with a spring. Screw it in to raise the lever all the way up when your foot is off the pedal. Make sure that the back of the pedal isn't hitting the floor when backed all the way off. It is does hit the floor, readjust the linkage until it has some clearance above the floor.

[CowboyBob]

18 hours ago, RemingtonSteel said:

After playing with it yesterday, I could probably live with the clutch motor if I had to, but I don't have the very slow speed control that I see with servo motors.  To me it will be well worth the extra cost to get a servo motor for the extra control. 

Clutch motor questions: With the power on, I cannot turn the handwheel by hand if the clutch isn't engaged. It is as if there is a break to stop the machine when the clutch is disengaged, which would make sense. I obviously can't turn the handwheel by hand once I do engage the clutch as the motor takes over.  So how do you use the handwheel with a clutch motor? Right now I find it very difficult to stop the machine at the exact top or bottom of the stroke.  Can you turn the handwheel by hand with a servo motor, or is there even a need to?   

Also the clutch motor has a 6v power outlet to supply power to the 6v 17w incandescent work light, that barely provides any additional light to the work area.  Going to have to upgrade that as well once I upgrade to a servo motor.

Just push the pedal 1/4" or so to release the brake.Most servos have a 110volt outlet on them & you can get a LED that are a lot brighter.

[Bert51]

If you have you belt to tight , you will find the peddle stiff to push down and hard to feather starting to sew.

Remember, it is a sewing machine not a car.

Bert.