Cracking leather belts

[Eric51767]

I've been teaching myself through books and youtube for a little over a year now. 

My work has been mostly holsters and sheaths, mostly off someone else's pattern but I do have some custom pieces out there. 

Now I've run into something that baffles me. A simple belt I sold for $35.00. The customer sent me pictures of it cracking.....everywhere. So I want to make this right, I made another one. The first one was a 1.5" strap purchased from Tandy Leather. The second one, pictured below I cut from a 9oz double shoulder that I bought to make a 4" Santa Belt last month. (no complaints from Santa.) Sure enough as you can see in the picture.....It cracked. 

That's not the buckle fold. That is approx the middle of the belt. I looped the belt back on is's self, pushed by hands together to create a gap and then snapped it shut. I have no idea what it would do that or how to be sure it wont do it again. 

Any insight would be helpful.

Thanks

[JerseyFirefighter]

Aside from sharp bends and too thick of leather at the buckle turn-back, I would say the leather is very dry. which it turn makes it more susceptible to cracks. Was the belt oiled after dyeing?

[Eric51767]

2 minutes ago, JerseyFirefighter said:

Aside from sharp bends and too thick of leather at the buckle turn-back, I would say the leather is very dry. which it turn makes it more susceptible to cracks. Was the belt oiled after dyeing?

Yes, neatsfoot oil, after applying Eco Flo Carnuba Creme as a sealer.

Maybe not enough neatsfoo?, I don't want it get mushy.

Maybe no sealer? 

[fredk]

Can you get a finger nail under the surface of the leather at the crack?

[Eric51767]

11 minutes ago, fredk said:

Can you get a finger nail under the surface of the leather at the crack?

I can, yes

 

[fredk]

22 minutes ago, Eric51767 said:

I can, yes

This sounds like separation of the top layer of the leather. It sometimes happens and nothing can be done to rectify it. Just use that leather for bag making where it will not be subject to bending

If you have more of that leather, lay it out all flat and wet it, not soaking wet, just a wet cloth wiped over it to get some even wetness. Leave it for a while, say 1/2 hour, then get your eye down level with the surface. You may see ripples in the surface - thats where the top layer of the leather is separating from the main body

[Lobo]

All leather is not created equal. The leather stocked by Tandy is frequently imported from unknown sources, tanning methods can vary quite a bit (from legitimate vegetable tanning to the old-style tanning with feces and urine, still rather common in Central and South America).

My first suggestion is to stick with good North American vegetable tanned hides, such as Hermann Oak Tannery. Contact Springfield Leather Company (see the banner ads) and you will find it generally available in the common thicknesses useful for holsters and belts.

The tanning process removes nearly all of the natural moisture from the hide, and this can result in finished products that may crack at stress points. Neatsfoot oil is rendered from the feet and lower legs of cattle, naturally good for leather as a means of replacing some of the moisture to allow flexing at stress points and reducing the tendencies for cracking. Neatsfoot oil does not dry or set up like many finish products; it remains in the leather fibers as a lubricant and moisture resistant product. After dyeing an initial moderate application of neatsfoot oil the product should be set aside for at least 24 hours to allow the oil to settle into the leather fibers and seek its final level. The piece can then be sealed and finished

These are my recommendations: better leather and a finishing process that takes into account the nature of the materials and products used.

Best regards.

[Hildebrand]

@Eric51767 one possible issue is that you put the neatsfoot oil on after the sealer.  The sealer will inhibit the oil from penetrating the leather.

Todd

[chiefjason]

Dye, oil, finish.  If you do dye, finish, oil you didn't oil the leather.  

And that leather is bad.  I'd also be contacting the seller and see what they say.  I had a set of shoulder straps do that and the company sent me another strap.  Thousands of reasons why, but most of those reasons fall on the manufacturer.  Then age.  If a maker gets old leather there are times you could not oil it enough to get it back.  I've since started keeping a 5oz side from Wickett & Craig around for straps and no more issues.  

On the upside, looks like you have a new belt.  Hope it's your size.  

[Hardrada]

Is neatsfoot oil a must? I've been making some belts from W&C English bridle and don't oil them: I just apply Fiebings Leather Balm with Atom Wax and off they go. I'm reluctant to use neatsfoot oil because it darkens the leather considerably (of course, if the leather's black, who cares, probably).

I was gonna switch to Fiebing's Carnauba instead of the Leather Balm. Now, I don't know.