Teslabolt Report post Posted January 15, 2020 Getting ready to install my knee lift. The knee lift bell crank is very difficult to move up by hand. Is there an adjustment for this? Or is it normal? It does seem like the feet are leaving too much of an impression on the leather (4oz) Am I correct that the knee lift bar needs to contact at this point in the photo? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Teslabolt Report post Posted January 15, 2020 Here is a video of the backside. Is the spring bar supposed to be hitting the large black screw? You can see me struggling to lift it. Very stiff. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pintodeluxe Report post Posted January 16, 2020 There is a screw at the top of the machine, near center of the head. It's sort of behind the top thread guide post. On some machines like a 226 it's a knob, but I think it's a recessed screw on the 206. It acts on a spring bar to alter the foot tension. Look at your machine from the back, and you'll see which screw articulates with the spring bar. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ljk Report post Posted January 16, 2020 On your kneelift picture I usually grind the top portion to a gradual cirve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Teslabolt Report post Posted January 16, 2020 I was able to adjust the lifting shaft that runs from the top spring bar down to the bottom. I also moved the knee lift over and re-positioned the hardware on the knee lifter assembly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leecopp Report post Posted January 20, 2020 It is also pretty easy to convert to a foot actuated lifter .. works better for me on my treadle machine. The pressure on the presser foot is often set quite high to better hold the goods in place while the needle transits forward for the next stitch. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Teslabolt Report post Posted January 20, 2020 8 minutes ago, leecopp said: It is also pretty easy to convert to a foot actuated lifter .. works better for me on my treadle machine. The pressure on the presser foot is often set quite high to better hold the goods in place while the needle transits forward for the next stitch. Yeah, I saw that on another post. I am intrigued. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregg From Keystone Sewing Report post Posted January 20, 2020 (edited) The collar for the presser spring is too high and going to bang into other stuff as you lift the presser foot. See attached image. With both presser feet bottomed out, outside on the plate and inside on the feed dog, loosen the collar screw and it will drop onto the bushing. Lift the bushing with a second flat head screw driver or something and lift the collar a few mm from the bushing and tighten the collar pinch screw so that it looks more like what is in the attached image. Edited January 20, 2020 by Gregg From Keystone Sewing Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Teslabolt Report post Posted January 20, 2020 11 minutes ago, Gregg From Keystone Sewing said: The collar for the presser spring is too high and going to bang into other stuff as you lift the presser foot. See attached image. With both presser feet bottomed out, outside on the plate and inside on the feed dog, loosen the collar screw and it will drop onto the bushing. Lift the bushing with a second flat head screw driver or something and lift the collar a few mm from the bushing and tighten the collar pinch screw so that it looks more like what is in the attached image. Thanks for the tip! Got her adjusted. Say, how important are the wicks in the front? Mine are obviously missing. :/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted January 21, 2020 You don't have to have the wicks, many upholstery class machines don't have them. Just get into the habit of regularly oiling the moving parts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Teslabolt Report post Posted January 21, 2020 12 minutes ago, dikman said: You don't have to have the wicks, many upholstery class machines don't have them. Just get into the habit of regularly oiling the moving parts. Perfect. Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bert51 Report post Posted January 21, 2020 On my old machines they do not have wicks or sumps, I oil them each time before I sew and so long as I do not over oil, I do not have any problems and some are older then me and work better then I do. Bert. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted January 21, 2020 (edited) All my machines are a older that me - one is even approx. twice as old as me.They will survive quite a while even if they do not get oiled regularly. But regular oiling should be a habit, thats true! The more you use em the more often you should oil them. I usually oil AFTER sewing so the oil has time to penetrate and before sewing I wipe of access oil so it is not sprinkling / dripping from the parts. When I haven´t used a machine for a few weeks or months or... I oil them before sewing too. But thats just me... Edited January 21, 2020 by Constabulary Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
