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Posted (edited)

I hear ya - but the fact remains that the tension on the discs never releases or has released since I have received the machine. 

I have put everything back together and tightened the knob, tension still not releasing appropriately. 

Edited by Teslabolt

Sewing Machines:

Consew 206RB-1

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Posted (edited)

the #5 vinymo is a 0.60 mm. thats little bigger than a size 138. Size 138 thread use's a 140/22 needle

 

 

Edited by RussellJohn
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Posted
Just now, RussellJohn said:

the #5 vinymo is a .060 mm. thats little bigger than a size 138. Size 138 thread use's a 140/22 needle

 

 

Thank you, sir. 

Sewing Machines:

Consew 206RB-1

Posted

Right off the bat Vinymo #5 thread is .53mm (www.etsy.com/listing/708202195/vinymo-mbt-5-053mm-100m-spool-japanese) which is V207 plus a bit in size and would probably need a #25 needle. Check the manual and see what is the largest needle, I think it is a #24 max and thread Vinymo #5 thread maybe to much for the machine. A good chart for the right size needles and thread size you can find at  www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html  I would suggest getting some V92 thread and trying it since your thread is at or beyond the machines capacity.

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

Posted
3 minutes ago, Teslabolt said:

I hear ya - but the fact remains that the tension on the discs never releases or has released since I have received the machine. 

I have put everything back together and tightened the knob, tension still not releasing appropriately. 

It's not supposed to release until you've finished sewing. Get the stitches right first. Like I said once you've done that you should be able to release the thread by jiggling the hand wheel.

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Posted
8 minutes ago, kgg said:

Right off the bat Vinymo #5 thread is .53mm (www.etsy.com/listing/708202195/vinymo-mbt-5-053mm-100m-spool-japanese) which is V207 plus a bit in size and would probably need a #25 needle. Check the manual and see what is the largest needle, I think it is a #24 max and thread Vinymo #5 thread maybe to much for the machine. A good chart for the right size needles and thread size you can find at  www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html  I would suggest getting some V92 thread and trying it since your thread is at or beyond the machines capacity.

The machine can handle from #69, up to #207 bonded nylon or polyester thread.

Sewing Machines:

Consew 206RB-1

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Posted

Best source for needles?

Sewing Machines:

Consew 206RB-1

Posted
9 minutes ago, Teslabolt said:

I would suggest getting some V92 thread and trying it since your thread is at or beyond the machines capacity.

I suggest that you use V92 thread as a good stating point to get your machine stitching correctly. With older machines the tolerance get a little off as parts wear. A new machine may do V207 all day long but as it ages there may be problems. Some machines handle V207 on top and bottom but work better with a smaller bobbin thread size. Type of tanning veg vs chrome as well as the thickness will play a role. To get it forming a stitch correctly start with a thick / multi layers of fabric as your test pieces.

kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

Posted

Can I ask if it is possible that the disc that the spring is pushing on that is between the spring and the tension discs has been turned around the wrong way? If it is then it is possible that the pin can not reach the normal contact point on that disk that the pin pushes against to open.

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Posted

So the main problem you're trying to fix is the loose stitches on the bottom of the sample, correct?  

Maybe I missed this in an earlier post, but what weight thread and what size and system of needle are you using?  Whenever I setup a machine for the first time, I use 92 thread and a #19 or #20 needle.  Needle system is 135x17 or 135x16 for leather point.  

Upper thread tension/resistance will feel pretty firm.  The fact that the the upper thread tension would be enough to deflect a needle doesn't sound unusual to me.  Normally you'd pull thread through the hole in the presser foot, which will prevent that from being a problem.  

Try putting it all back together, and just use the hand lever to lift the foot.  Eliminate the knee lift as a potential source of the problem.  Heck, even user error can cause the loose stitches.  When I first started using an industrial machine, I had a bad habit of riding the knee lift.  This releases upper tension as you sew, which is obviously not helpful.  Keep problem solving.  It's usually something little and inexpensive to fix.

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