Tension Release Lever Rod

[kgg]

18 minutes ago, Teslabolt said:

It seems hard to pull the thread through even without the tension discs on. Pulling through the needle eye, it deflects the needle as well.

Depending on the size of thread and how many holes you have threaded through before the tension discs will affect the tension of the top thread. I usually don't thread through the two holes in the top pin just after the thread spool and only two of the four holes in the thread holder.  My experience is the larger the the thread the less holes I use before the main tensioner. The amount of needle deflection is going to depend on the size of thread, the needle size, how hard you are pulling and if the presser foot is in the up position and has released the the tension discs.

kgg

[toxo]

I've told you there's nothing wrong with the machine . It's almost identical to my Durkopp 239. It took me a long time to realise it's not just one thing. You have to get the needle size right for the thread you're using then you have to balance the tension between the top and bottom adjusters. The presser feet have to be the right height. The hook has to arrrive at the thread/needle at the right time.  If any of these are not right it won't work properly.

[kgg]

Forgot to ask how you are installing the bobbin? When you pull on the bobbin thread does the bobbin spin clockwise or counter clockwise. Have got the proper tension on the bobbin thread by doing the drop test?

kgg

Edited January 17, 2020 by kgg
incorrect word

[Teslabolt]

I am using Vinymo #5 thread. I have no clue what size needle I have. Does anyone know what size I should have? I am just going to buy the entire tension assembly. If I can't even release the tension with the foot release, I need to get that resolved first. 

[toxo]

1 minute ago, Teslabolt said:

I am using Vinymo #5 thread. I have no clue what size needle I have. Does anyone know what size I should have? I am just going to buy the entire tension assembly. If I can't even release the tension with the foot release, I need to get that resolved first. 

Absolutely not. The video shows it's working correctly. If you put everything back the way it was in the first video, tighten up the top tension knob and sew something. The first Pic shows it sewed something it just lacked top tension. As a rough guide to the needle thread issue, the needle should slide down the thread when holding the thread taut at 45 degrees.

[Teslabolt]

I hear ya - but the fact remains that the tension on the discs never releases or has released since I have received the machine. 

I have put everything back together and tightened the knob, tension still not releasing appropriately. 

Edited January 17, 2020 by Teslabolt

[RussellJohn]

the #5 vinymo is a 0.60 mm. thats little bigger than a size 138. Size 138 thread use's a 140/22 needle

 

 

Edited January 17, 2020 by RussellJohn
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[Teslabolt]

Just now, RussellJohn said:

the #5 vinymo is a .060 mm. thats little bigger than a size 138. Size 138 thread use's a 140/22 needle

 

 

Thank you, sir. 

[kgg]

Right off the bat Vinymo #5 thread is .53mm (www.etsy.com/listing/708202195/vinymo-mbt-5-053mm-100m-spool-japanese) which is V207 plus a bit in size and would probably need a #25 needle. Check the manual and see what is the largest needle, I think it is a #24 max and thread Vinymo #5 thread maybe to much for the machine. A good chart for the right size needles and thread size you can find at  www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html  I would suggest getting some V92 thread and trying it since your thread is at or beyond the machines capacity.

[toxo]

3 minutes ago, Teslabolt said:

I hear ya - but the fact remains that the tension on the discs never releases or has released since I have received the machine. 

I have put everything back together and tightened the knob, tension still not releasing appropriately. 

It's not supposed to release until you've finished sewing. Get the stitches right first. Like I said once you've done that you should be able to release the thread by jiggling the hand wheel.

[Teslabolt]

8 minutes ago, kgg said:

Right off the bat Vinymo #5 thread is .53mm (www.etsy.com/listing/708202195/vinymo-mbt-5-053mm-100m-spool-japanese) which is V207 plus a bit in size and would probably need a #25 needle. Check the manual and see what is the largest needle, I think it is a #24 max and thread Vinymo #5 thread maybe to much for the machine. A good chart for the right size needles and thread size you can find at  www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html  I would suggest getting some V92 thread and trying it since your thread is at or beyond the machines capacity.

The machine can handle from #69, up to #207 bonded nylon or polyester thread.

[Teslabolt]

Best source for needles?

[kgg]

9 minutes ago, Teslabolt said:

I would suggest getting some V92 thread and trying it since your thread is at or beyond the machines capacity.

I suggest that you use V92 thread as a good stating point to get your machine stitching correctly. With older machines the tolerance get a little off as parts wear. A new machine may do V207 all day long but as it ages there may be problems. Some machines handle V207 on top and bottom but work better with a smaller bobbin thread size. Type of tanning veg vs chrome as well as the thickness will play a role. To get it forming a stitch correctly start with a thick / multi layers of fabric as your test pieces.

kgg

[RockyAussie]

Can I ask if it is possible that the disc that the spring is pushing on that is between the spring and the tension discs has been turned around the wrong way? If it is then it is possible that the pin can not reach the normal contact point on that disk that the pin pushes against to open.

[Pintodeluxe]

So the main problem you're trying to fix is the loose stitches on the bottom of the sample, correct?  

Maybe I missed this in an earlier post, but what weight thread and what size and system of needle are you using?  Whenever I setup a machine for the first time, I use 92 thread and a #19 or #20 needle.  Needle system is 135x17 or 135x16 for leather point.  

Upper thread tension/resistance will feel pretty firm.  The fact that the the upper thread tension would be enough to deflect a needle doesn't sound unusual to me.  Normally you'd pull thread through the hole in the presser foot, which will prevent that from being a problem.  

Try putting it all back together, and just use the hand lever to lift the foot.  Eliminate the knee lift as a potential source of the problem.  Heck, even user error can cause the loose stitches.  When I first started using an industrial machine, I had a bad habit of riding the knee lift.  This releases upper tension as you sew, which is obviously not helpful.  Keep problem solving.  It's usually something little and inexpensive to fix.

[RockyAussie]

57 minutes ago, RockyAussie said:

Can I ask if it is possible that the disc that the spring is pushing on that is between the spring and the tension discs has been turned around the wrong way? If it is then it is possible that the pin can not reach the normal contact point on that disk that the pin pushes against to open.

Here are a couple of things may help .-

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32993984374.html

The disk does not look to be in there correctly or perhaps it is not even an original disc?

[Wizcrafts]

3 hours ago, Teslabolt said:

I hear ya - but the fact remains that the tension on the discs never releases or has released since I have received the machine. 

Have you verified that your machine actually has push to release pin number 11 inside its channel in the head? You can remove the entire tension assembly and see the end of that pin protruding from the body. Lifting the hand or knee lifter will push it out a bit, which is how the disks get separated. If the pin is missing, order or make a replacement pin. If it is in there and moving with the lifter, but not separating the disks, bend the metal tab on the back of the tension assembly to move the side closest to the pin so it is almost in contact with the pin when the feet are lowered. This will give it the maximum travel when you lift the feet manually.

If the pin is there, but does not protrude out of the channel in the head, it is too short and may need replacing. But, there is an activator on the back side of the head that pushes the pin from the back when the lifter is lifted. If that block is misaligned there won't be enough push on the pin to separate the tension disks.

[Teslabolt]

I appreciate all the responses! It seems that one of the parts is not correct. Can anyone confirm? Difficult to tell from the schematic. There is a large bulge at the beginning of the stud that would prevent the discs from lining up.  

12 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Here are a couple of things may help .-

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32993984374.html

The disk does not look to be in there correctly or perhaps it is not even an original disc?

I love Alexander's videos. I have watched them all many times. That part seems to be different than mine. I ordered an assembly to be on the safe side as it appears my setup is using the wrong parts. 

[Teslabolt]

Is anyone able to measure the distance that the pin comes out on the left side behind the tension guide?

I am desperate and could really use some help. I got the new hardware in and nothing fixed it. 

[Teslabolt]

The only thing I can see that is different between the old and the new assembly is that the hole is bigger for the upper screw. Like someone drilled it out to be bigger. Which makes me wonder if these guides only work with the new models?

 

[Teslabolt]

This photo I grabbed from another post, confirms my suspicion. The thread guide plate is different. No hole on the rearward portion of the plate.

 

Does anyone have old 206RB parts for sale?  

 

[Teslabolt]

According to the 206RB-1 Parts book, the part that touches the bolt that is pushed on the other side has a crooked foot so to speak. These new ones do not. Good lord. 

[Teslabolt]

Goldstartools.com may have the older design. Crossing fingers!

Sorry for the spamming. 

[toxo]

I really can't understand why you're so fixated on this. All this does is release the tension so you can pull the work through AFTER you've finished sewing. I'll say again, put it all back together and do some sewing. The tension you need to balance the stitch between top and bottom threads have nothing to do with this bone you keep picking at. From the start you showed that the machine is sewing. It was just the tension that needed balancing which has nothing to do with the pin you're on about.

[Teslabolt]

I here ya. The fact that I can’t release the work is not the main issue. The problem is that I can wrench down the tightening screw on the disks to 100% and still have a loose bottom thread. Tried increasing/decreasing tension on the bobbin with no luck. The fact is that I have a part installed on my used machine that was never designed to be used together. I’m unable to see and I have a backlog of work, so yeah, I’m a little fixated. Just spent a small fortune on this machine and I expected it to see out of the box. I have learned a ton, so there’s a bright side. 
 

I will report back once the correct part is installed. I’ll add that not being able to release your work without physically separating the disks is a major PITA.