Tension Release Lever Rod

[dikman]

So if part #13 is flat, rather than having the offset, all that means is that the rod, part #11, will be a bit short. Replace it with a slightly longer pin.

[Teslabolt]

Tried that, using a small wooden dowl. It was impossible to get both working. Either the discs were being compressed all the time, or none of the time. 

[Wizcrafts]

Earlier in this discussion I mentioned the lifting block on the back that pushes the pin inside the head. I believe that its part number on the 206RB-1 is 10544. In the 206RB-5, it is part number 18479. In both instances it is described as Presser Bar Lifting Bracket. This part is adjusted up and down by a screw accessible from the rear. There may be a very wide screw, #10548, holding it against the body that has the flat spring passing through it also. This part may need to be raised up and rotated so it lies against the body. It has a tapered ramp inside that gradually pushes against the pin #11. It the lifting bracket is shot, replace it. The part was cloned from the Singer 111w103, 153 and 155. I had to replace that part on my 111w103 when I bought it out of a guy's pickup truck last year.

This manual shows the location of the presser bar lifting bracket in Plate 8, as number 9 in the exploded view (part 10544).

Here is a link to a Consew part #18479 Presser Bar Lifting Bracket.

[dikman]

56 minutes ago, Teslabolt said:

Tried that, using a small wooden dowl. It was impossible to get both working. Either the discs were being compressed all the time, or none of the time. 

Then it has to be the adjustment Wiz is referring to. It is the only thing that can cause that problem.

[Teslabolt]

8 hours ago, dikman said:

Then it has to be the adjustment Wiz is referring to. It is the only thing that can cause that problem.

I really don't think so. Based on the fact that the tension release lever #13 is a much different part than mine. It allows that lever to actually touch the pin. Mine is miles away from it. Here is a video that I hope clears everything up. Still waiting for the new part to come in. 

Here is the part that is coming in (photos from the seller)

 

[Johnny]

Teslabolt

I am chiming in a bit late but I had a similar experience on my PFAFF 145 with a replacement tension plate from eBay, they were differences between original and purchased one and it would not fit, luckily I was able to use individual components from the new on to fix the original tension plate. Possibly different revisions of the assembly, your machine looks fantastic and will serve you well once you get past this hiccup.

John

 

[Teslabolt]

6 minutes ago, Johnny said:

Teslabolt

I am chiming in a bit late but I had a similar experience on my PFAFF 145 with a replacement tension plate from eBay, they were differences between original and purchased one and it would not fit, luckily I was able to use individual components from the new on to fix the original tension plate. Possibly different revisions of the assembly, your machine looks fantastic and will serve you well once you get past this hiccup.

John

 

Thanks so much, John. I am looking forward to putting her in service. They really don't make them like they used to. 

[Constabulary]

this should not be a a serious problem and from my experience rather easy to solve. I don´t see why it should not work.

"Far east" tension units are not as good as the OEM ones but you usually can make em work (maybe with exceptions).

If i got it right the inner pin #11 is coming out a bit when you lift the foot lever, right?

I would either try to make one tension unit out of two - parts should be interchangeable or put in a longer inner pin (#11) or a longer small "inside stud pin" (#25) or bend the silver "release plate" (#13) on the backside until it reaches the long inner pin (#11) or a combination of the mentioned options. Can´t be too difficult.

This at least would be my way.

Edited January 29, 2020 by Constabulary

[RockyAussie]

18 hours ago, Teslabolt said:

The problem is that I can wrench down the tightening screw on the disks to 100% and still have a loose bottom thread. Tried increasing/decreasing tension on the bobbin with no luck.

This is the part that still worries me. I see that the pin 11 is free moving and able to slide back and forth OK and you have had the little pin 25 out and I assume that that also slides back and forth OK so .....I have to ask when you have it all together and thread between the tension discs is the thread firm to pull through or does it slide through almost loosely? The thread going to the bottom normally would mean lack of top tension which could be caused by the top tension discs not coming together enough. If the thread is firm to pull through the discs then the problem is most likely at the bobbin side. Also I have to ask when you lift the foot by hand lever is there any catching when you lower it down. Are you getting a good pressure down on the leather with it. I generally check by seeing if I can lift the foot upward with my fingers and usually that will just be possible on most jobs. If it lifts easily then sometimes looping on the bottom happens and the foot pressure needs to be increased. I am sorry that I don't have one of these exact machines to check the measurements for you but I can offer that I have used a small nail cut down to length to get the right movement happening where pin 25 goes on another similar machine. The screws you loosened on the back plate in your video will further distance that pin 25 from working and I would do them up firm before making a pin up. That pin can be loose fit but definitely not tight. See if there is a difference in that pin 25 length from your old to new set as well first.

[Teslabolt]

Thanks for the input, RockyAusssie. I checked the pin lengths on both and they are equal to the new ones. I think I have good pressure on the feet. Not easy to lift up, moderate. 

I still need confirmation on whether the knee lift lever arm goes above or below the presser bar lifting bracket. 

Thanks!

[RockyAussie]

15 minutes ago, Teslabolt said:

Thanks for the input, RockyAusssie. I checked the pin lengths on both and they are equal to the new ones. I think I have good pressure on the feet. Not easy to lift up, moderate. 

I still need confirmation on whether the knee lift lever arm goes above or below the presser bar lifting bracket. 

Thanks!

And the thread is firm to pull through the discs and gets harder as you tighten the disks? @Uwe has a video on one of these I think and still may have one of these.

[dikman]

Ok, that was a good video, but you're saying that the pin (#11) doesn't reach the operating lever on the tension assembly. Like I said, it's too short. I have had to replace similar pins on my machines and it's just trial and error to get the right length, too short and it won't work, too long and the discs stay open.

Or, as Constabulary said, try bending the arm.

[Teslabolt]

15 minutes ago, RockyAussie said:

And the thread is firm to pull through the discs and gets harder as you tighten the disks? @Uwe has a video on one of these I think and still may have one of these.

Yessir, the thread is more and more difficult to pull through as I tighten the discs. 

[Teslabolt]

14 minutes ago, dikman said:

Ok, that was a good video, but you're saying that the pin (#11) doesn't reach the operating lever on the tension assembly. Like I said, it's too short. I have had to replace similar pins on my machines and it's just trial and error to get the right length, too short and it won't work, too long and the discs stay open.

Or, as Constabulary said, try bending the arm.

It makes sense, but I am a purist and my curse is that everything should be the way the original manufacturer intended. Thus, I am replacing the foreign part. (you know what I mean) I cannot fathom not being able to use the machine with factory parts. From what I know, these machines were engineered to last a very, very long time. As soon as I get the replacement tension assembly, I will hopefully report back with good news. 

I may have been able to technically sew, but the thread on the bottom was so loose that I could just pull it right out in a straight line. 

[dikman]

I see where your coming from. Unfortunately, we are often dealing with older machines where we have to make do with what parts we can get and adapting/modifying becomes part of the game. At least you know where the problem is (with the machine, I mean ).

[Teslabolt]

1 hour ago, dikman said:

I see where your coming from. Unfortunately, we are often dealing with older machines where we have to make do with what parts we can get and adapting/modifying becomes part of the game. At least you know where the problem is (with the machine, I mean ).

Ha!  :O)   

Yes for sure there is a lot of duct tape and baling wire with the old stuff. That is part of the fun if there are no other options. 

[RockyAussie]

3 hours ago, Teslabolt said:

I still need confirmation on whether the knee lift lever arm goes above or below the presser bar lifting bracket. 

Just wondering does this video not show you that answer? https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=20&v=Fsb-yUp1nMQ&feature=emb_logo

 

[Teslabolt]

I can't recall if that video was taken before or after I started to remove things in that area. *head slap* 

Hoping another 206 owner will hop on and give me an answer. Can't find anything on the interwebs. Any pics I do find, are not in detail. 

[Teslabolt]

I ordered a better one (with pointed hardened bolts) just like this.

Part circled is what broke when I tightened down the bolt. Broke like pot metal. 

It was free so not crying too much. 

Edited January 30, 2020 by Teslabolt

[Constabulary]

I basically have restored all my sewing machines and if I would be a purist I would probably have a pile of cast iron but not many working sewing machines. You either buy what works / is available or you wait until you find a 2nd or 3rd machine to get together all the OEM parts. But yes, when ever possible I try to replace the "cheap parts" with OEM parts but that's not always possible. My 1st priority is that the machine is sewing the way I need it and then on the long view I try to find OEM parts (often enough randomly). I even have thrown out original parts and install foreign parts until the machine suits my needs (f.i. a needle bar just because I want to use a different needle system). Then OEM has no priority instead functionality is what counts. So it depends! But 1st priority is always that the machine does what I want - sewing!

9 hours ago, Teslabolt said:

I may have been able to technically sew, but the thread on the bottom was so loose that I could just pull it right out in a straight line. 

is it probably because you are using a too small needle size - I´d try to go up 1 or 2 needle sizes.

Edited January 30, 2020 by Constabulary

[Constabulary]

8 hours ago, Constabulary said:

18 hours ago, Teslabolt said:

I may have been able to technically sew, but the thread on the bottom was so loose that I could just pull it right out in a straight line. 

is it probably because you are using a too small needle size - I´d try to go up 1 or 2 needle sizes.

Edited 8 hours ago by Constabulary

Forget this - I got you wrong 

[Teslabolt]

4 minutes ago, Constabulary said:

Forget this - I got you wrong 

Needle size is spot on. Have about 4 different sizes. 
 

I did install my Japanese made bobbin and the stitching was tons better. Still had an issue with thread slipping over tension assembly, but the cheap one from amazon is in the trash. 

[Bert51]

I think we all go though a phase where we buy cheap parts from ebay or amazon, I call this phase "School of Hardknocks", we all need to go through it, that way we learn to listen to others and buy from dealers like those who support and help us on this forum.

I bet I have more rubbish parts in my bin then you have.........................

Bert.

Edited January 30, 2020 by Bert51

[Teslabolt]

Just now, Bert51 said:

I think we all go though a phase where we buy cheap parts from ebay or amazon, I call this phase "School of Hardknocks", we all need to go through it, that way we learn to listen to others and buy from dealers like those who support and help us on this forum.

Bert.

Good word. Lesson learned. The Japanese bobbin felt like a Cadillac compared to the other one. Not sure what's different, but it definitely is. 

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

See attached image.

Singer tension on the Left has a tension release lever, grey or silver that will break like glass if you try to bend it.  This is where grinding down the small pin within the tension disks works.  

The one on the Right can bend with a needle nose tool closer and farther, while on the machine to take up any gap.  This one will, usually, hold up to spring tension without getting bent out of shape.  The tension that you have on your machine...I have no idea.