Sewing thick leather

[Sraab813]

I'm working on a couple projects and needing to hand sew what I consider extremely thick leather. Project one is about 1/2" total and project 2 is about 3/4" total... 3 and 4mm diamond chisels but the prongs on those wont go all the way through, I've got a basic awl but not a diamond one. I'd like to know what everyone recommends as far as 1.creating the stitching holes 2. What type and thickness thread should I be using? The stitches are more visual than structural but still need to be able to take some stress.

[Hardrada]

Are you so pressed for time that you can't order a diamond awl?

https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/pricking-irons-chisels-awls/products/kyoshin-elle-diamond-awls

[chrisash]

Some people glue and then drill through thick leather

[chiefjason]

I use my drill press to drill the holes initially.  If you still want the look of punched holes you can push the awl in to change how the thread lays coming out of the hole.  Thread tends to lay flatter coming out of a hole punched with an awl as opposed to a drilled hole. Twice the work, but you get the effect.   

[zuludog]

Would it be possible to pre - prick some of the layers of leather? If you've done them all you would need to line up the holes carefully. Or if it was just the top layer you could use that as a guide for the awl blade to pass through the hole then through the next layers

I make sheaths from 3 X 3mm veg tan leather. I usually glue the welt to the front part; use a stitching chisel to make the holes in that; make up/glue on the back part; push my awl from the front through the holes and into & through the back part

I've seen previous threads where people have mounted an awl blade in a stationary pillar drill or drill press to apply more force than just by hand

As for thread, I would assume it should be fairly thick. Synthetic is stronger and less likely to fray, but you might like the look of linen. Think about 0,8mm or 1,0mm synthetic - braided polyester; or 4/18 linen, or 332 if it's measured in the French system

[jcuk]

Hi there can you tell me how thick a single layer of leather you are going to stitch? and what type of chisels are you using ? make or pic would help.

All the best

JCUK

Edited January 30, 2020 by jcuk

[Sraab813]

Hardrada I'm not exactly pressed on time just trying to get some product up on my etsy page to keep my store relevant in the algorithms.

Jcuk the single layers are about a 1/4" thick but everything has already been glued. The chisels I have are just basic ones from amazon, nothing special. I can upload some pics, they're paddles so wasn't sure if that would be appropriate to post outside of the adult section. Dont wont offend anyone.

[chuck123wapati]

I punch the top layer then use that as a template for the other layers, most stitching chisels will do two layer or at least mark the bottom piece. After that I use small 1" brads in a few holes to line up all the layers. I put the brads through the top layer glue up everything then push the brads down through the other layers aligning the holes, slide all the layer down the brads and they line up very well, you may need to run an awl through the holes while sewing to open em up a bit. 

[jcuk]

Hi again

What i was going to suggest was,  to punch a single layer;  assemble your work and use your awl to pierce through the remaining layer/layers.  It would be a good way for people who are not to adept with using an awl to learn to saddle stitch, maybe you can still punch through the top layer and still do this.  Don't try  to punch all the way through all the layers as I don't think it would come out to well.

I brought some stitching chisels just to see what the fuss was about,  i get the impression they are designed for lighter to medium work  I rarely use them if ever. Most of my work is saddlery so a lot of it is heavier work using traditional methods such as using old style pricking irons so no pre punched holes in your work and yes much prefer to them.

Sorry can't be of more help only  maybe next time try punching through one layer first and then glue.

Hope this helps

JCUK  

[Ken Nelson]

I would recommend you get a diamond awl the correct size and length. Sharpen and strop it and get it SHARP.  Use a stitch groover and then a stitch marker to mark your holes.  Use the awl to carefully make your holes and then you can either use two needles and make the harness makers stitch or a jerk needle and make a lockstitch just like a sewing machine.   It is the correct tools to use.  I build saddles and have for a long time.  Do yourself a favor and use the correct tools-the right way.   Only way to get professional results.

[Tugadude]

Apparently there are two identical thread topics.  I responded to the other one.  There is seldom only one way to get professional results.  Nigel Armitage, who I consider a professional describes using a stitching chisel to do multiple layers and he gets professional results.

I understand there are those on the forum that hate anything but traditional saddle stitching with an awl, and you are fine to think whatever you want.  Many, or more likely most of us never do saddles and for what we do the chisels are wonderful.  

In fact, look around and you will see tons of new and interesting types of chisels available.  New ones coming out weekly it seems.  So there is a market and the work folks are putting out is superb.

[toxo]

12 hours ago, chiefjason said:

I use my drill press to drill the holes initially.  If you still want the look of punched holes you can push the awl in to change how the thread lays coming out of the hole.  Thread tends to lay flatter coming out of a hole punched with an awl as opposed to a drilled hole. Twice the work, but you get the effect.   

I would go with this suggestion but chisel first to get the spacing then drill through the rest. Maybe chisel again on the back side but I think the pattern would be "backward" but maybe would still look ok.

[chuck123wapati]

2 hours ago, Tugadude said:

Apparently there are two identical thread topics.  I responded to the other one.  There is seldom only one way to get professional results.  Nigel Armitage, who I consider a professional describes using a stitching chisel to do multiple layers and he gets professional results.

I understand there are those on the forum that hate anything but traditional saddle stitching with an awl, and you are fine to think whatever you want.  Many, or more likely most of us never do saddles and for what we do the chisels are wonderful.  

In fact, look around and you will see tons of new and interesting types of chisels available.  New ones coming out weekly it seems.  So there is a market and the work folks are putting out is superb.

Hence the old saying "there's more than one way to skin a cat"

[Handstitched]

It would be handy if you knew someone with a saddle machine, like a 441 clone.They can sew through  the thick leather you are using . I have used my machine to punch the holes through thick leather  prior to hand stitching  on rare occasions. 

HS

[Alexis1234]

I regularly hand sew thick leather(1/2" +) -driving bridle cheeks,  driving breast collars ( certain  areas of harness I struggle to  sew with a machine), etc and what I do is i make my stitching line with a compass and on the face of the strap use a pricking iron to mark stitches. Then i  use an awl to go thru all layers and help me determine first stitch. I then use a pricking iron and make holes on back side with the iron.

[Dwight]

22 hours ago, Sraab813 said:

I'm working on a couple projects and needing to hand sew what I consider extremely thick leather. Project one is about 1/2" total and project 2 is about 3/4" total... 3 and 4mm diamond chisels but the prongs on those wont go all the way through, I've got a basic awl but not a diamond one. I'd like to know what everyone recommends as far as 1.creating the stitching holes 2. What type and thickness thread should I be using? The stitches are more visual than structural but still need to be able to take some stress.

Ken Nelson started out the same way I would, . . . I  would recommend you get a diamond awl the correct size and length. Sharpen and strop it and get it SHARP.  Use a stitch groover and then a stitch marker to mark your holes.  Use the awl to carefully make your holes 

He quit in his advice as far as I would go.  I'd put that very sharp diamond awl in a drill press, . . . tape the chuck so it cannot move, . . . and punch your holes without turning on the motor, . . . just pushing the awl thru.  I cannot tell you how many times I've done this, . . . works like a champ.

I also sometimes use my Tippmann Boss machine to do the same things, . . . punch the holes, . . . then hand sew the item.  It will do up to 3/4 inch leather, . . . but only with the needle, not with an awl.

Just be creative my friend, . . . that's the secret of successful leather working.

For that thick of leather, . . . I'd use waxed polyester or nylon, . . . 346 or 415.  I have both, . . .  would depend on what it would be for, . . . and how much bling I would want or not want in the sewing.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited January 31, 2020 by Dwight

[jcuk]

I can't imagine a customer asking me to make them a hand stitched triple stitched triple layered full size head collar out 4mm plus leather and have to punch and line up every layer of each piece of the full sized head collar so I can stitch it , time consuming to say the very least! It would wear pretty thin with me in no time at all and then have to charge them extra for the extra time it took to do so. As Ken has said if you learn to use your tools correctly it a lot easier in the long run. I have had my pricking irons 25 years plus don't even know what make they are and i do not feel the need to purchase a new set of stitching chisels every time a new ones come because the ones i brought last week are already out of date. Another thing to consider with stitching chisels is the fact that you are punching all the way through the leather you will have to to maintain the the cutting edge as you do with any other punch more work in the long run.

 

Hope this helps

JCUK