Sewing thick leather

[Tugadude]

Apparently there are two identical thread topics.  I responded to the other one.  There is seldom only one way to get professional results.  Nigel Armitage, who I consider a professional describes using a stitching chisel to do multiple layers and he gets professional results.

I understand there are those on the forum that hate anything but traditional saddle stitching with an awl, and you are fine to think whatever you want.  Many, or more likely most of us never do saddles and for what we do the chisels are wonderful.  

In fact, look around and you will see tons of new and interesting types of chisels available.  New ones coming out weekly it seems.  So there is a market and the work folks are putting out is superb.

[toxo]

12 hours ago, chiefjason said:

I use my drill press to drill the holes initially.  If you still want the look of punched holes you can push the awl in to change how the thread lays coming out of the hole.  Thread tends to lay flatter coming out of a hole punched with an awl as opposed to a drilled hole. Twice the work, but you get the effect.   

I would go with this suggestion but chisel first to get the spacing then drill through the rest. Maybe chisel again on the back side but I think the pattern would be "backward" but maybe would still look ok.

[chuck123wapati]

2 hours ago, Tugadude said:

Apparently there are two identical thread topics.  I responded to the other one.  There is seldom only one way to get professional results.  Nigel Armitage, who I consider a professional describes using a stitching chisel to do multiple layers and he gets professional results.

I understand there are those on the forum that hate anything but traditional saddle stitching with an awl, and you are fine to think whatever you want.  Many, or more likely most of us never do saddles and for what we do the chisels are wonderful.  

In fact, look around and you will see tons of new and interesting types of chisels available.  New ones coming out weekly it seems.  So there is a market and the work folks are putting out is superb.

Hence the old saying "there's more than one way to skin a cat"

[Handstitched]

It would be handy if you knew someone with a saddle machine, like a 441 clone.They can sew through  the thick leather you are using . I have used my machine to punch the holes through thick leather  prior to hand stitching  on rare occasions. 

HS

[Alexis1234]

I regularly hand sew thick leather(1/2" +) -driving bridle cheeks,  driving breast collars ( certain  areas of harness I struggle to  sew with a machine), etc and what I do is i make my stitching line with a compass and on the face of the strap use a pricking iron to mark stitches. Then i  use an awl to go thru all layers and help me determine first stitch. I then use a pricking iron and make holes on back side with the iron.

[Dwight]

22 hours ago, Sraab813 said:

I'm working on a couple projects and needing to hand sew what I consider extremely thick leather. Project one is about 1/2" total and project 2 is about 3/4" total... 3 and 4mm diamond chisels but the prongs on those wont go all the way through, I've got a basic awl but not a diamond one. I'd like to know what everyone recommends as far as 1.creating the stitching holes 2. What type and thickness thread should I be using? The stitches are more visual than structural but still need to be able to take some stress.

Ken Nelson started out the same way I would, . . . I  would recommend you get a diamond awl the correct size and length. Sharpen and strop it and get it SHARP.  Use a stitch groover and then a stitch marker to mark your holes.  Use the awl to carefully make your holes 

He quit in his advice as far as I would go.  I'd put that very sharp diamond awl in a drill press, . . . tape the chuck so it cannot move, . . . and punch your holes without turning on the motor, . . . just pushing the awl thru.  I cannot tell you how many times I've done this, . . . works like a champ.

I also sometimes use my Tippmann Boss machine to do the same things, . . . punch the holes, . . . then hand sew the item.  It will do up to 3/4 inch leather, . . . but only with the needle, not with an awl.

Just be creative my friend, . . . that's the secret of successful leather working.

For that thick of leather, . . . I'd use waxed polyester or nylon, . . . 346 or 415.  I have both, . . .  would depend on what it would be for, . . . and how much bling I would want or not want in the sewing.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited January 31, 2020 by Dwight

[jcuk]

I can't imagine a customer asking me to make them a hand stitched triple stitched triple layered full size head collar out 4mm plus leather and have to punch and line up every layer of each piece of the full sized head collar so I can stitch it , time consuming to say the very least! It would wear pretty thin with me in no time at all and then have to charge them extra for the extra time it took to do so. As Ken has said if you learn to use your tools correctly it a lot easier in the long run. I have had my pricking irons 25 years plus don't even know what make they are and i do not feel the need to purchase a new set of stitching chisels every time a new ones come because the ones i brought last week are already out of date. Another thing to consider with stitching chisels is the fact that you are punching all the way through the leather you will have to to maintain the the cutting edge as you do with any other punch more work in the long run.

 

Hope this helps

JCUK