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Posted (edited)

My only concern is that epoxy is kinda slippery for a handle?  Especially if you've handled some oil/wax before.

I'm talking about the outside now.  Normally wooden tool handles have no finish whatsoever for this reason, just sanded to high grits for presentation.

Edited by Spyros
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Posted
2 hours ago, Spyros said:

My only concern is that epoxy is kinda slippery for a handle?  Especially if you've handled some oil/wax before.

I'm talking about the outside now.  Normally wooden tool handles have no finish whatsoever for this reason, just sanded to high grits for presentation.

I think Dikman means to put the epoxy inside the handle so you can center it. Knife makers and tool makers both do this routinely to The only person that can will ever know your handle is off center is you I cant see the problem at all. OR you can simply glue a dowel back inside the hole and redrill it! 

Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms.

“I won’t be wronged, I won’t be insulted, and I won’t be laid a hand on. I don’t do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” THE DUKE!

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Posted

Well, the second one came apart from the glue joints I didn't put in. I put the old back in the lathe and turned a little bit along with sanding. You won't notice it too much. Still waiting on the head material.  Epoxy would be on the inside.  The handle is coated with Tru-Oil.  It's not slippery. Would someone post a pic of Berry's mauls? I didn't realize that they are textured.  Does that make a big difference? 

Thanks again 20200606_083408.thumb.jpg.c7c5d80e16d5ab5dcd5421bccb0ad4a6.jpg

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Posted (edited)

Supeglue it and put it back on the lathe? I mean the glue joints only need to hold for you to turn it, after that the nuts on the rod will hold it together anyway. 

Edited by Spyros
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Posted
9 hours ago, DaveP said:

Would someone post a pic of Berry's mauls? I didn't realize that they are textured.  Does that make a big difference? 

Thanks again 

I never tooled with one that was smooth to compare the difference but I understand the concept of texture.  I don't know the durometer of his heads.  Maybe a softer head wouldn't benefit as much from some texture.

Scootch

20200607_202225.jpg

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Posted

I can't see any practical benefit for texturing the head. If you look at the one on the right you can see where the texturing has worn off from use.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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Posted (edited)

I didn't like the idea gluing the other one.  Shaped the original one to fit. Received the head material. Although they sent me the wrong color it doesn't look too bad.  I should have the right color in a week or so.  I wanted red...just because! After figuring out how to drill and face turn the polyurethane,  this is what I've got so far.  Made a brass end piece threaded 1/2-20. Once I get the right head material it will be held with loc-tight at both ends. Wanted to add the diameter of the piece...it's 2 3/4". I got 12" of the stuff.  With them sending me another piece 12" in red I'll have enough to make a lifetime's worth! 

20200612_204859.jpg

Edited by DaveP
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Posted

Very nice, looks like it would look right at home at my place. Nearly to good to use.

Bert.

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Posted

Thanks Bert! I do plan on using it...hopefully even make something nice with it.

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Geez I didn't realise tru oil makes such a glassy surface, I got to try this thing :)

It looks great, congrats!

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