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OlivesNLimes

Dead blow hammer vs. a poly maul?

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Started leatherworking yesterday.  So, all of this is brand new to me.  Would you recommend a dead blow hammer vs. a poly maul? Already know I need to practice a lot.  Some stamps aren't leaving a deeper indention in the leather.  Would a dead blow hammer work better for these stamps?

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In my opinion, they both have their place in leatherworking.  For big stamps, such as letter stamps (1/2" and bigger) the deadblow hammer is really nice.  You can hit hard enough to leave a good impression without the "bounce" that a regular maul or hammer has so that you don't get an accidental double-strike. Those double-strikes make can make coins more valuable, leather not so much!

For smaller tools a lighter poly or rawhide maul or hammer are more suitable, particularly if you need multiple rapid strikes such as used when tooling leather.  A deadblow hammer would just cumbersome in that situation.

- Bill

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Have a look round a car accessory store at soft faced hammers. They often have alternative or interchangeable faces, such as the Thor, which you can get with copper or hide faces and a range of weights

Search YouTube for soft faced hammers and dead blow hammers, there are several videos

Edited by zuludog

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@OlivesNLimes Firstly, welcome to the world of leather. Look forward to seeing your work.  :) 

Zuludog is correct. They are quality mauls/ mallets .  When choosing a maul, just try in your hand. Is it heavy or light enough ? 

But if you're on a budget,  this is what I use. They're just rubber mallets, well used.  . The one on the left, is about 9 oz,  I use that for heavy stamps, 3D etc. one on the right, about 6 oz , I use that for everything else. Its actually from the toy section in a discount shop, but works fine.

HS

 

Maul Pics 001.jpg

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Yeah for Harbor Freight - any kind of hammer - mallet you want.  And cheap.

Then when they wear out (in about 10 years) you will have a good idea of what works and doesn't work and just what you will want to buy.

'Course esthetics come into play after about a year.

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Just don't use steel on steel - you'll mushroom the shaft of the punch. Water and patience.

In reality, the bigger punches are usually suited for machines - I use a Big Green Machine for rivets, eyelets and snappers, and they're pretty good as impressions.

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