Another Casing Question

[tsunkasapa]

I use a spray bottle. Give it a fairly good wetting initially, and just quick spritzes as needed.

[Dwight]

I do not do a lot of carving and stamping . . . but I have learned this . . . Tandy's shoulders . . . the closer you get to the neck . . . the "harder" it is . . . 

Try . . . just for kicks and giggles . . . some of Tandy's belly leather . . . it is some of the softest leather they have . . . see if you have the same results.  My wager will be "NO"

May God bless,

Dwight

[Chris623]

Hmmmmm.   You're the first person to suggest Belly leather.

[Rahere]

Just "China", likely picked up in a trade fair sometime. My gym's next door to a major exhibition centre.

But at the same time, my eye fell on a classic rawhide mallet about that weight I sometimes use. A simple 1" roll of rawhide, nailed and likely glued, with the middle cut through crosswise to take a wooden handle. Nicely dished ends down the years...

[tsunkasapa]

5 hours ago, Chris623 said:

wet

Indeed it does.  And I agree, and always have, that true casing produces better results than just wiping.  Thanks. 

Watched the video and it seems I'm with Chuck much of the way, but not all.  First off, I didn't know about the liquid soap or mouthwash trick.  I think he said "just a spot".  (that's about as ambiguous as my Grandmother's "pinch of salt" in her recipes!)     Any suggestions there would help.  I've been using the 10-15 second "swim" for my leather, so same there.  The next step is where I've failed miserably.  I've just been waiting until the surface of the leather turns back to near it's original color to start tooling.  Chuck says to place it on a non porous surface and cover with smooth glass for 24 hours.  One thing he didn't cover was how long to wait to start tooling after removing the glass. ??? Then he recommends using Saran Wrap to cover the areas not being tooled.  I thought it interesting he mentioned by casing this way he gets about 2 hours of tooling time.  I've never achieved that.  Question:  So as not to lose the depth of tooling, how would you come back the next day and re-wet to start tooling again?  Just re-wet the area you want to work on with a sponge?

Oleskiver, I "think" my cuts are deep enough, but when I asked for a critique on a small feather I tried, it was suggested I cut a tad deeper. ("tad".  Now isn't that like a "pinch"?)

Rahere, I've been searching on the Internet watching all these videos.  Came across a fellow who was beveling with a 4 oz leather Polypropylene mallet.  (or could have been Polyethylene, not sure.)  He said he'd learned that he could bevel to the depth he wanted with on hefty whack from a 2 pound mallet or "machine-gun" type light taps from a 4 oz mallet and get the same results.  He claimed the benefit was he could light tap for hours and not tire his arm and wrist............unlike wielding the heavier mallet.  I spent some time before turning out the light last night looking for lighter mallets and mauls.  Any thoughts there you might share?

Look on eBay.

Rawhide Mallet - Natural 1.50” - 37-102 | eBay

Rawhide Mallet Jewelry Ring Repair 1 1/2" x 3" Length Head Size 12" Long | eBay

 

 

 

 

 

[Chris623]

Thanks, tsunkasapa.  I just ordered this:  https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C86H7NQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ordered the 1 pound size.  I think the weight is distributed a lot differently than my maul and think the pivot point will be different, making it feel less heavy.  We'll see.  If it's not what I need, I'll offer it up for sale.

[JSage]

I'm no expert by any stretch, but I can attest that you would be surprised in the difference in the quality of good leather, (read spendy), and many of the cheaper imports. Yes, it's worth the cost. Even Tandy has varying leather quality and pricing to match. I would agree with Dwight, stay away from the shoulder for now. You can buy small sections of quality side leather in differing weights from places like Weaver.  Or even cheaper,  pieces of decent practice leather from supply houses like Tandy in project packs like their coster rounds. I use all three of the discussed methods of casing the leather. The bath, mist spray and damp sponge. Depending on the project or stage Im at in the project I may use all three. Usually at least the bath and damp sponge method. 

[Chris623]

Thanks JSage.  I'm sure that's good advice.  I'm still spending hard-to-acquire money on tools and supplies.  I've got enough of this Tandy Shoulder for several projects.........even some paying ones...........so I see better leather in my future, just not right now.

[Scootch]

This is an old pice of Tandy double shoulder.  It was cased with a damp paper towel.  This amount of burnish is par for the course with this shoulder.

[Scootch]

 This is a Herman Oak belt blank and was cased with a damp paper towel.  This would show burnish if your finger nail drug across it on accident.