What tools should a newbie not skimp on?

[Grumpymann]

IMHP weather or not you go expensive or cheap is less of a question than you would think its about keeping them in good working order.

I recently got some of my blades sharpened professionally (Not all that expensive in fact) but the edge has lasted LONGER on a blade I bought cheap from ebay, why you ask I strop that blade all the time. I strop it when I put it away and when I pick it up.

Same with a few drive punches. I rigged up a Dremel arbor with a few leather disks and some jewelers compound to polish then my expensive punches may keep an edge longer than my cheaper than cheap ones but they work just as well when I use them. 

So as far as I'm concerned I would START out midrange, SLOWLY upgrading up what I use more often and what needs to be  replaced.

As far as what to buy for the workflow... use what you need and want to. For me I start out cheap, and move up from there. My expensive awl is rarely used and my cheap irons get a work out. Because I like the use if stitching irons. 

Remember what people say here is derived from personal experience. 

What ever you decide have fun. Do that and weather you are a pro or just once a year let it stress you LESS. And smile more. without that you might try cross stitch.

 

Edited December 24, 2020 by Grumpymann
spelling

[Brigg]

Thank you all for the replies!

I have a lot to think about. I did not know there was a difference between a stitching chisel and a pricking iron. I also appreciate the leather suggestions. It is hard to know what leather to buy in the beginning because I don't want to buy something that is awful to work with and that is of low quality but I also don't want to buy really high end practice material. If anyone has other suggestions I would be curious to know.

What edger would you recommend?

Selecting tools is definitely difficult when it is unclear how to get the results I want. I have attached some photos of the kind of things I would like to make. I also am fond very fond of Hermes, Moynat, Berluti, Dunhill, Goyard (full leather products). I don't know if this would guide my tool selection.

Hakase x T. MBH

Qualialeather

Swaine Adeney

tl.watchstrapvn

[Hardrada]

33 minutes ago, Brigg said:

What edger would you recommend?

For your intended purposes: #0 & #1 (later on you can add a #2 if you're working with heavy leathers).

Good quality and affordable:

https://www.goodsjapan.com/leather-craft-items/general-leather-tools/kyoshin-elle-leathercraft-deluxe-leather-edge-beveller-sharpener-0-6mm-edger-0/a-20564

https://www.goodsjapan.com/leather-craft-items/general-leather-tools/kyoshin-elle-leathercraft-deluxe-leather-edge-beveller-sharpener-0-8mm-edger-1/a-20469

[JLSleather]

If you want to do nice work, get nice tools.  Having said that, I honestly don't know where those are nowadays - SO much of what is available is just "not what it used to be".  If my tools ever need replaced, I guess I'll hunt like the next guy!

That said, one trick is to NOT spend money where it's not called for - not quite the same but a good effect.  Like, you'll see numerous posts going on about a "round" or "head" knife.  Absolutely a great tool for a saddle maker, maybe not needed to make what you show here.  Long straight lines are easily cut with a $4 utility knife, replace the blade for 25¢ when needed (versus $150+ for a "round" knife, requiring your time to sharpen / strop).

Attention to detail is your friend as well.  Is that frayed thread in the first pic above?  Seriously... that kind of thing makes an otherwise very nice project look cheap.

[jcuk]

If you are going to go on this course 

https://www.amblardleatheratelier.com

They have a recommended tools  list which i believe the Blanchard pricking irons will fit their patterns/templates all pricking irons from different manufacturers will be slightly different in theirs spi even if they say they 10 spi they will vary slightly. The other tools may not matter.

With any cutting tool i strop before use and after less time spent on sharpening them. 

 

JCUK

 

 

[Brigg]

1 hour ago, JLSleather said:

If you want to do nice work, get nice tools.  Having said that, I honestly don't know where those are nowadays - SO much of what is available is just "not what it used to be".  If my tools ever need replaced, I guess I'll hunt like the next guy!

That said, one trick is to NOT spend money where it's not called for - not quite the same but a good effect.  Like, you'll see numerous posts going on about a "round" or "head" knife.  Absolutely a great tool for a saddle maker, maybe not needed to make what you show here.  Long straight lines are easily cut with a $4 utility knife, replace the blade for 25¢ when needed (versus $150+ for a "round" knife, requiring your time to sharpen / strop).

Attention to detail is your friend as well.  Is that frayed thread in the first pic above?  Seriously... that kind of thing makes an otherwise very nice project look cheap.

Yikes. I was quoted over $600 for that pen case.

[rodneywt1180b]

Don't use a steel hammer on your tools.  You will damage them  (at least I did).  Buy a decent mallet instead. 

A rotary cutter works well for long straight cuts and is cheaper than a head knife to start.

Check the various threads here on sharpening your tools.  Sharp is more important than brand, at least to get started. 

Splurge on some 1/4 round punches for your corners (on my "want" list).  I still struggle with getting decent curves by hand. 

It takes practice to get the results you show.  Be patient and keep at it.  You'll get there.

[Hardrada]

You will need a steel hammer, though: a cobbler's hammer with a smooth head to tap your stitching work.

Needless to say, you should never use the cobbler's hammer to hammer anything else: if you scratch the head you'll be marking the leather when you flatten the stitches.

Edited December 24, 2020 by Hardrada

[AzShooter]

Everyone has a good suggestion of two on chisels or pricking irons.  Don't forget a goo maul as well.  Heavier is better since you won't have to hit your tool as hard or as often to go through the leather.

A good sharpening kit will also go a long way.  After sharpening remember the strop is your friend.  Many times after a knife got dull all it would need is 20 passes on the strop and it's back to cutting like going through butter.

[mike02130]

Your head must be spinning.