When do I punch?

[Loudcherokee]

I know the Amazon stuff usually isn't favored here, but I have had good luck with these sets from Amazon, and I have them in 3mm, 4mm, and 5mm. 

https://www.amazon.com/Aiskaer-Diamond-Lacing-Stitching-Leather/dp/B014549SNG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=aisker%2Bstitching%2Birons&qid=1612134752&sprefix=aisker&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1

I've also learned that while punching on a punch board works, throwing a scrap piece of 7 ounce veg tan under the piece im punching through seems to both leave cleaner holes, and feels like it takes less blows to drive the punches through. This also makes it to where I don't need to use an awl in the holes while stitching. 

My only complaint on these punches is the 6 hole punch can be a little tough to pull out of thick stuff, like 2 layers of 7/8 for a holster for example, but the thinner stuff like wallets has been good. 

I am a beginner at this stuff so take it with a grain of salt I suppose but I've had good luck with these irons and they are reasonably priced if you wanted to pick up sets in different sizes. 

LC

[fredk]

14 hours ago, Dogfisher said:

 I am going to try oil dyes on my next test to see if it keeps the leather softer and less likely to crack. 

Oil dye will still dry out the leather, you need to apply a small amount of pure neetsfoot oil, aka nfo, to soften the leather. Go easy with the nfo, not too much, its easy to apply too much and near impossible to remove it

[Dogfisher]

So I just sharpened and polished my crappy diamond chisels. Much nicer. Thanks for the advice. I also ordered these Aiskaer White Steel 4mm Diamond Lacing Stitching Chisel Set for $11 on Amazon. We'll see if the thinner prongs work better for me.

[fredk]

They'll need sharpened as well

Now, punching the sewing holes -

1. block of bees wax

2. stab chisel teeth into wax

3. punch some holes

4. punch some more holes

5. back to 2

6. as 3 & 4 until you're all punched out

[OLESKIVER]

what fredk said!  but you might also look at weaver leather, their punches are nice and fairly inexpensive. at  least they are made in usa. fixing to buy their whole line of diamond punches since I found out my tandy "  premium" punches are made in china.  hope this helps. one thing about buying top end tools....you only have to buy them once..theoretically!  all my punches have one or both of two words I look for in the description, forged or drop forged.   hope this helps

[Rahere]

16 hours ago, OLESKIVER said:

what fredk said!  but you might also look at weaver leather, their punches are nice and fairly inexpensive. at  least they are made in usa. fixing to buy their whole line of diamond punches since I found out my tandy "  premium" punches are made in china.  hope this helps. one thing about buying top end tools....you only have to buy them once..theoretically!  all my punches have one or both of two words I look for in the description, forged or drop forged.   hope this helps

It must be said, schooled in heavy engineering, the idea of drop-forging something that small is bemusing! I'm more used to APC shells...

[Loudcherokee]

On 2/1/2021 at 5:36 PM, Dogfisher said:

So I just sharpened and polished my crappy diamond chisels. Much nicer. Thanks for the advice. I also ordered these Aiskaer White Steel 4mm Diamond Lacing Stitching Chisel Set for $11 on Amazon. We'll see if the thinner prongs work better for me.

Cool! Let me know what you think of them. 

 

LC

[Hardrada]

https://www.goodsjapan.com/seiwa-diamond-leather-stitching-chisel-leathercraft-pricking-iron-tool-2x3mm/a-19396

https://www.goodsjapan.com/seiwa-diamond-leather-stitching-chisel-leathercraft-pricking-iron-tool-4x3mm/a-20773

https://www.goodsjapan.com/leathercraft-items/pricking-irons-stitch-punches/seiwa-diamond-leather-stitching-chisel-leathercraft-pricking-iron-tool-10x3mm/a-20974

 

They also have them in 4 mm for thicker thread, and in 2.5 mm for small leather goods. Seiwa are inexpensive, yet top notch, durable chisels. Don't be put off by their unappealing, almost raw looks: they're VERY good quality. That's what I use for 4 mm spacings. I started out with 3 mm Tandy ones, but replaced them with 3.38 mm KS Blade last summer.

Goodsjapan.com has tons of excellent leathercraft tools, Japan-made, and very good quality at very good prices. What else can one ask for? I've gotten my skiving knives, leather stamps, Kyoshin Elle edgers and diamond awl, plus other tools from them. Never disappointed.

Edited February 4, 2021 by Hardrada

[AzShooter]

I use the same procedure as the OP.  One thing I can say is to make sure your leather is dry before you start using the chisel.  I also use a rubber mat to dampen the blows from the chisel.  I use a 2 pound maul and it easily goes through my 2 layers of 8-9 ounce leather with about 2 hits.

I do stamping, then dying  and then the chisel.  I sand the edges before making my grove line and then once I put my holsters together I sand again and then burnish the edges.

My system works for me.  I may be doing it wrong.

[Rahere]

11 hours ago, AzShooter said:

I use the same procedure as the OP.  One thing I can say is to make sure your leather is dry before you start using the chisel.  I also use a rubber mat to dampen the blows from the chisel.  I use a 2 pound maul and it easily goes through my 2 layers of 8-9 ounce leather with about 2 hits.

I do stamping, then dying  and then the chisel.  I sand the edges before making my grove line and then once I put my holsters together I sand again and then burnish the edges.

My system works for me.  I may be doing it wrong.

If it works for you, great. A beginner is advided to geove first, so he punches in the ditch with the thread automatically recessed, although light pounding can improve on that too.

I've accidentally found that channelling after surface-dying creates an impressive colour contrast as the original natural tan comes through.