Buster Welch Roper

[rktaylor]

Here's #10. Swanke tree and HO leather. The seat is 14.5" with 13" swells and 4" cantle. I've still got a lot of room for improvement, but the process is fun. Comments, critiques, suggestions are welcome. That's what helps me improve. 

Randy

[LatigoAmigo]

5 hours ago, rktaylor said:

Comments, critiques, suggestions are welcome. That's what helps me improve. 

So much work with such great results. You asked for a critique, and so I will say (although this is a really small detail) that the applique used to attach the side strap really caught my eye because the start and finish make the braiding look incorrect. But overall... a really beautiful saddle.

[blue62]

Looks pretty good other than the rear housing is shifted to the left of center.

Overall nice job.

[rktaylor]

Thanks for the compliments and critiques.

11 hours ago, LatigoAmigo said:

You asked for a critique, and so I will say (although this is a really small detail) that the applique used to attach the side strap really caught my eye because the start and finish make the braiding look incorrect.

I need to check the bottom of the braid. I think the top is finished correctly, but the bottom is definitely off. I had already decided that the effort of this braid does not translate to better appearance, so I won't be using it again.

 

3 hours ago, blue62 said:

Looks pretty good other than the rear housing is shifted to the left of center.

You are correct. I thought I had it pulled around, but it may have slipped back before it was nailed. I believe I can fix it before the saddle is delivered.

Randy

[Goldshot Ron]

Randy,

I had to look hard to give you any advice.  It looks good and well executed.  I've braided a flank billet once, and will not do it again.  I like to make mine with a loop end for easy disassembly.  Also, I recommend sewing around the buckle holes on the billets for a figure 8 design.  This makes them less likely to rip out if caught on something.

 It sounds like you made this for a customer, I'm pretty sure they'll love it.  One last item, I just finished putting new strings on an old custom saddle and used the same holes for everything, the damn rear jockeys still didn't come out looking correct.  They never are as easy as one might think; it takes 3 hands and then some.

Good going, Ron

 

[rktaylor]

Ron,

Thanks for the feedback. Actually built it for a repeat customer, so I'm anxious to have him pick it up. Looking forward to the next saddle to hopefully correct some errors.

Randy

[rdl123]

Looks good Randy,

Your seat shape looks very comfortable.

Swell fork saddles intimidate me as I have only built slick forks so far!  The only thing I see is maybe that if the rear jockey was a little lower you could hide the leather that holds the rear D ring in place.  That is minor though!

Be nice to see some pictures of it strapped onto a horse...

Good work Randy - Happy trails!

Ron L

[rktaylor]

Thanks Ron,

I'm getting better at ground seats, that's for sure. The rear jockeys ended up shallower than I would prefer, but they needed to line up with the front jockey. Both will be a little deeper on the next saddle.

Randy

[EdOdgers]

Randy,

Congratulations on # 10.   Nice saddle.  I like the unique border design around the horn neck.  You might want to try applying antique to the stamping next time.  It's extra work and messy but really makes the tooling stand out and pop.  Start experimenting with some tooled scraps. 

A tool like the one shown in the photos will help you establish the cantle binding location more consistent with the rim of the cantle and help gauge the width of your Cheyenne roll .  You can make up this tool in any number of ways; I made this one with stuff on hand.  The gap on this one is 1/4" which works well.  To use, slide it along the inner dish of the cantle and create a slight crease on the rim of the cantle.  Also, you can run a dividers along that crease line to scribe the cut location for trimming off the Cheyenne roll.  That way the roll will be a consistent width.  When you stretch on the binding, use the crease line as your guide and just barely cover it.  Sorry, I didn't have a photo using the tool on a saddle under construction so I tried to give you the idea with a finished one.

Ed

[Squilchuck]

Curious about the Buster Welch roper tree.  I've use a BW tree to make ranch cutter saddles with  a TD horn. I didn't having roping in mind but someone asked if you could rope with the saddle. I asked the tree maker Bowden and they said the horn was strong enough but maybe not the bars being a cutter tree. They said roping calves might be OK.  So, does your BW roper have beefed up bars to handle roping? I've always associated slimmer close-contact bars w BW cutting trees, so if the bars are beefed up for roping I guess it must be the swell that makes it BW?  -John

Ps: Saddle nicely done!

Edited February 18, 2021 by Squilchuck

[rktaylor]

Ed, Thanks for the cantle binding tip. I like that tool. I antique a lot of projects, but haven't done a saddle. Maybe it's time. 

John,  This saddle was built to team rope. The customer ordered the tree to his specs so the bars should be fine. The horn is a 3 1/2" TD with 1 1/2" cap.

Thanks for all the feedback. 

Randy